I’m fairly new to 3d printing, I thought I figure out how to do detailed prints by adjusting the settings as I already had a somewhat successful print but I’m trying to do this other print of the thousand sunny one piece boat I found on cults 3d, the bottom of it keeps having flaws, it looks stringy and dropping not sticking to the rest of the filament. I think part of it is due to it not being dry but another thing is my supports keep failing as well, stringing or breaking off. I’m going to edit the settings and retry it while I wait for a response, here’s how it looked before.
I used a .2mm nozzle
PLA filament
a .06mm height layer
I slowed down the speed thinking that’s what caused it from 4000mms to 2000mms
adjusted the overhang speed to half of what it was
and used tree slim supports with 3 walls, .28 top z distance
pls lmk if I’ve done any rookie mistakes or if there’s a way to fix this problem
0.2mm nozzle has issues with clogs, slowing it down will probably worsen the quality. Normal supports seem better for this model, it needs as much contact with the support as possible. If you have an AMS, use PETG/PLA Support as the contacting part of the support material.
From what I can see, you have a very ambitious geometry.It seems to consist largely of an overhang while also being prone to local warping. With an interface distance of 0.28, it is prone to drooping while the increasing lever arm with height will knock the build of its support sooner rather tan later.
You"ll want an interface distance of 0 which you can get by using PETG or BVOH as an interface. BVOH is expensive, but you may have a chance to get the model to print without further modifications. But Min/Max Temp synching can be a bit tricky for a beginner.
If you go for a PETG interface, there’ll be almost no adhesion between the model and the support. So you will probably need to first create 3+ stabilization pillars or ribs from primitives. They’ll need to be cut away later, but if done right, they can keep the print on the plate.