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Hello. I am new to printing and have a P1P printer. A few weeks ago, I had filament ooze out of the .4 nozzle and it ended up covering everything including the fan. I replace the entire head and opened the extruder to oil the gears. I replaced the head but then the prints would not stick the bed. Now today more filament oozed out and to the point where the rubber sleeve fell off. What is going on!! I have tried Bambu filament, generic filament, drying the filament, washing the bed, and still this happens. Not sure of any other setting because I dont even know what most of those mean. Please help!!
You need to observe this in action, with your eyeballs, in real time, or set up a camera to do so.
Is the print detaching from the plate, then riding on the nozzle, “blowing a balloon” starting from the tip? Or is it leaking out from the supposed-to-be-sealed connection between the melt zone and the heat brake? The first implies settings/cleanliness, the second implies a broken or improperly installed nozzle
Hot water, regular unscented dish soap (ex: dawn), a nonabrasive scrubber brush/etc that you have not used for dishes, soap it down, scrub it up, rinse it off, repeat, dry it on clean stuff and hold it by the edges. Some people, including myself, also do a spritz of isopropyl alcohol and wipe it dry (do not let this step air dry). Invisible oils love to screw up plate adhesion.
After that, do a first-layer test, peel it up and lets see a pic of that from the top and from the bottom. In the slicer, on an empty plate, add a cube, and resize it down flat. Lots of folk do it as full 250x250x0.2 cube but a quick 100x100x0.2 will also tell us some stories.
This failure mode occurs when filament fails to adhere to the build plate and instead accumulates under the nozzle. When adhesion fails, molten filament has nowhere to go and pools under the nozzle and follows the path of least resistance, which is upward and around the hot nozzle, collecting underneath the silicone sock. That is exactly what your photos show.
Under normal circumstances, first layer adhesion would be the primary focus. However, since you mentioned prior nozzle damage, that should be ruled out first. After that, these are the most likely causes to evaluate, in order:
Build plate contamination
You mentioned cleaning the plate. Did you wash it with dishwashing detergent and hot water? Wiping or using alcohol alone is often insufficient to remove skin oils and residue.
Build plate temperature too low
Try increasing the build plate temperature. If you suspect the plate may not be reaching its setpoint, a non-contact IR thermometer can be used to verify the actual surface temperature. Measure directly on the build plate surface.
Nozzle temperature too low
This is less likely since the issue occurred with two different filaments. Unless both filaments have very similar temperature requirements, nozzle temperature is probably not the root cause.
Ambient temperature and drafts
Your P1P is open-frame. What was the ambient room temperature, and were there any drafts? For example, if the build plate is set to around 45 C and cold winter air is moving across it, adhesion can fail. This is uncommon but does happen with open-frame printers. Try increasing the build plate temperature. If you do not want to build a full enclosure, temporary side shielding using cardboard or tape can help, but only if the room temperature is below roughly 65 F (18 C).
At this point, it is also reasonable to rule out nozzle or hotend damage by replacing the entire hotend assembly. Keeping a spare on hand and treating it as a consumable is good practice. Follow a basic troubleshooting rule: change only one variable at a time. Start with a known-good hotend, confirm behavior, and then proceed through the remaining steps if needed. Just in case you need the link, here is the whole assembly.
