The stock textured PEI bed needs heat for PLA to adhere to it. Without it the part will not stick.
1 Like
Thanks for the reply! So I guess the 55 degree’s is the settled on best temp for adhesion? Currently printing and about 0.5 cm off the floor but the hot bed is still at 55. I guess that temp is also needed to be maintained so it doesn’t get loose from the bed?
I thought the chamber itself heated up too, but maybe I was wrong. It’s just the nozzle and the bed? So I guess in warmer months it’s totally fine to open the door if needed to keep things cool?
Correct
The P series doesn’t have a chamber heater like the H series does.
Correct or prop the top.
1 Like
Amazing, thanks for helping!
1 Like
Welcome to the forum!
1 Like
While BBL supertack isn’t that same as build tack, the working is similar. I suppose you could just stick a buildtack sticker on your old supertack plate. Getting a frostbite etc plate is not so expensive and even easier though.
I always print with the door and top glass closed, winter or summer and had no problems, in summer it uses much less electricity to keep the plate on temperature also slightly less in winter as there are no draughts with the door closed.(I use a Smart plug to measure consumption and the Bambu Lab integration in Home Assistant)
I usually print with 5ºC more for first to 3rd layer to help the squish i.e. 45º/40ºC or 35º/30ºC and had very few prints unstick, usually my fault for not using a tab on pointy bits.
I’m on the same page as @KeredG, had my P1S for over a year and never once printed with the door open or lid cracked. Never encountered any issues or really thought about it, until now! Maybe I will leave the door open for the next few things I print and see if I notice any difference. I mean, they made it with a door, why would one be expected to leave it open?!
As power consumption.. What does a 10º or 20º difference in plate temperature really equate to? Say for a 6 hour print, maybe 5¢ or 15¢ worth of power? I’m just guessing but it’s likely negligible. Kind of a silly thing to worry about, but that’s just me.
If my open/shut experiment yields any tangible differences, I will report back.
Happy printing everybody!
The printers that made PLA popular were mostly open-frame, which naturally kept temperatures low.
Enclosures make it possible to use hi-temp filaments (PC, PA, ASA, etc.) that require a warm environment and slow cooling. That can be a problem for PLA, PETG, and TPU, which need more rapid cooling. Door open/top off prevents chamber overheating.
1 Like
Yes; and / or using a cold plate also helps to keep chambre temp down. Supertack works well cold; almost too much when you have a bazillion support trees you need to peel off.
(* And by cold i mean no heating at all past first layer, not 45 degrees cold)
I personally just use a little riser that I printed and it holds up really well even with an AMS and in PLA filament