Well… I may have conducted what can best be described as aggressive hotend maintenance.
My P1S hotend fell apart after I attempted to remove stuck PETG by heating it with a lighter.
In hindsight, introducing “small blacksmith forge” energy to precision printer parts may not have been ideal.
Attached is the current state of the patient.
Question for the wise minds here:
Is this hotend salvageable, or have I promoted it from “printer part” to “modern art”?
Can it realistically be repaired/reassembled, or should I accept defeat and order a new one?
Any advice appreciated, including gentle roasting of my decision-making.
You can never trust that self-made press fit nor matching the nozzle length used by the printer during bed levelleing.
Just get a few replacements and go for the hex-key cold pulls in the wiki in the future.
What is explicitly advised against is to use the manual controls to heat (and cool) the nozzle in a controlled manner using the display and perform “open nozzle surgery” with the nozzle controls attached during the hex key cold pull. There are risks regarding hot end, print head, build plate damage (when slipping) and personal injury (burns, crush/stab injuries,…)
So, it may work very well, but there are dangers involved: Don’t do that!
In the future, unscrew your hotend, leaving it plugged in, pull it out of the “socket” it pushes up into, and then put the screws through it and then into the extruder where they’d ordinarily go. You’re basically installing it forward of where it usually would go, but you can still heat and cool it using printer controls and you can insert a 1.5mm hex key to cold pull/hot push/whatever.
, 
and stay safe!