P1s overhang print issue

[A154_architecten]

Hi everyone,
I have troubles printing my architectural model (this is a piece of my building model) . The overhangs are poorly printed. I tried multiple things:

• Slow Down for Overhangs
• Multiple types/styles of support
• Top Z distance
• Colder nozzle temperature (215°C), I use Prusament PLA Army Green

But still the same result. For me it’s very important that the outer line of the volume is straight. The flatness of the underside is les important to me. Printing in another direction is no option because otherwise it would be very noticeable and ugly.

I’m not that experienced in 3D printing, but I am doing my best. Hopefully somebody can help me. You can find my file below here with extra pictures. Is this enough to investigate my problem?
Thank you in advance!

test overhang.3mf (33,4 KB)

[user_308992299]

Very simple soloution - just click the ‘Auto Orient’ button in the taskbar and it will orient it so it doesn’t need any supports or overhang.

[user_3888037942]

Two recommendations:
First, try using normal supports, not tree supports. I have found that the normal supports work MUCH better for shapes like this, where there is a relatively large and flat area needing support.

Secondly, try re-orienting the model like the other poster said. No matter how much support tuning you do, eliminating the need for supports entirely will still yield better results.

Thirdly, if you DO end up in a situation like this where you can’t re-orient the model to eliminate the need for supports, consider using a different support material. PETG works great as a support interface for PLA, or you can use a special “Support for PLA/PETG” material.

[MalcTheOracle]

Turn it upside down.

[Bullocks]

Agree to print it flat.

Otherwise for this model I would recommend classic instead of tree, and always to use 3 interface layers with 0 interface spacing. That makes the interface a solid mass, and if you grip it with pliers, it’s ALL coming off in one chunk. If you’re using orcaslicer as well, this is a great candidate for support interface ironing (large flat surface)

[A154_architecten]

But I don’t want to change the direction of my print. This is a piece of my building. When I change the direction, it becomes ugly.

[A154_architecten]

Thank you for your answer.

1. I will try the normal supports then. Let’s hope
2. Re-orienting is not an option, because this is a litle part of my building. This is the most ‘difficult’ part.
3. I don’t have AMS for printing with another filament

[user_3888037942]

Even without an AMS, you can still have a different support material!
Technically, you just need the support INTERFACE to be a different material, not the whole support structure.

You can add a pause right before the printer starts printing the support interface, change filaments, and then add a second pause so you can change back. There are lots of helpful youtube videos that show you how to do this in basically any slicer, like Bambu, Orca, or Prusa.

Just changing the support type will probably make a big difference in the appearance, but also consider doing more tuning of the support parameters. Try out a few small test pieces with different settings for the “Top Z Distance” to see which works best.

Also, again, I agree with other posters that flipping it on it’s side or upside down would make the biggest difference. If you don’t like the pattern from the build plate or the layer lines, just hit it lightly with some sandpaper.

[MalcTheOracle]

Currently, the slicer can only PAUSE at a layer and not within a printed layer.

Thus means you can’t have PAUSES to swap between the main filament and the support filament as they would be on the same layer by definition.

There is an upcoming feature to allow the slicer to automate the swapping of materials from external spools.

However, there is no confirmation yet as to if that will by the same per layer swaps, just far easier to manage or within layers.

[A154_architecten]

So i did some tests and my conclusion is:

• the normal support works better (but harder to pull of)
• the top Z distance 0.1 is the minimum (0.2 was bad!)
• increase the top interface layers to 3
• did some test with the Top interface spacing, i think 0.4 was the best. Otherwise it was to hard to cut off the support

(my print is a little bit damaged because of my knife when cutting of the support)

test terras_final.3mf (33,9 KB)

[Bratling]

@MalcTheOracle

Turn it upside down.

Instructions unclear, spools fell out of AMS.