Has anyone seen an stl of step of the part cooling fan for the p1s? I have a better fan i want to use but the exit is smaller than the Bambu version. Hence why I am asking about a housing stl.
I searched for a bit but couldn’t find one. Why don’t you just take the fan out of the housing and use that.
Gutting a fan that costs 20$ kinda hurts. Considering I have a 3d printer that can print one but its an option sadly.
Anyone have a 3d scanner and some spare time??? Pretty please!!! lol
What makes you want to change the fan?
So I attempted the same thing a few months ago. I bought 6 of the 9200 RPM HoneyBadgers. I tried what user_2330303166 suggested and took one of them apart in the hopes that I could swap the guts over. Unfortunately the HoneyBadger wasn’t really made to be taken apart and now I have 5 
.
Then I found this:
So I soldered the Bambu connector on to the HoneyBadger and put it in that model. According to an anemometer it wasn’t putting out as much air as the stock fan. I THINK it’s because it doesn’t line up perfectly with the duct on that model. At that point I kinda gave up. If you come up with anything please post it here and I promise I’ll do the same.
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What I’ve done is take the stock housing and cut the cent out then printed a cap and heat pressed the badger motor into place then ca glued that cap into the stock housing. So badger motor and “blade” with stock housing; that way in can work with more “ducts”. Be it printed or bought.
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Nice! That part on the side where the bearing was is what I wasn’t sure how to handle because I had to break it out of the plastic. You definitely have more ingenuity than I do … I think I need to give it another try.
just be careful when heating the badger motor to press it into the cap idk how much heat it would tolerate. I used a 5mm heat insert tip to press it in.
Glue the cap in first then heat press the badger motor into it. I suggest PETG/ASA.
badger cap bearing retainer.3mf (44.7 KB)
cap was printed with a .4 nozzle and bearing cap was printed with a .2 nozzle.
PS the factory housing is kinda brittle so take your time with cutting the center out.
Once i get my mako hotend in I plan to finalize the process and ill post some better pics.
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Veery cool, I will be looking into this.