Here’s my report on this mod. I’ve had this now for a full week. I realize this is a long read so I’ve tried to break it down into segments.
TL;DR version:
It works to some degree—with caveats, which I’ll cover in the detailed version below.
Summary
Scale used to gauge level of difficulty to install:
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- 1 = very easy
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- 5 = no more difficult than any other Bambu replacement part
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- 10 = very hard
Would I recommend it? Probably not, but you may have a use case for doing this. The ROI in terms of effort and money wasn’t there for me, but I’m glad I found out for myself.
Bed Temp Deregulator
- Difficulty Verdict: 7
- The bed temp mod was very tricky due to tight spacing, necessitating the disassembly of the entire heating bed.
Nozzle Temp Deregulator
- Difficulty: 2 or 6 depending on your situation and experience
- Verdict: 2 if using a new nozzle and you have prior experience installing one
- Verdict: 6 if trying to pry out the old thermistor with baked-on filament and dried-out thermal grease
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Detailed version [Click to expand]
Heatbed Deregulator
Strong Words of Advice Garnered from My Mistakes:
- Set aside a table with plenty of space—something like 4’x8’ would be just big enough. A WHITE TABLE OR TABLECLOTH IS KEY! Why? So you can easily spot the screws you will inevitably drop while disassembling the heatbed.
- Don’t attempt this without a magnetic tray for the screws. The springs under the thumbscrews are not sold on the Bambu site and are very easy to lose. You can find replacements on Amazon, but it’s still a pain.
- Have plenty of light. I use a headlamp—you’ll need it when retrieving dropped screws.
- Do NOT push too hard on the connector. You can break the PCB side off. There’s little tactile feedback when it seats, so if it looks visually connected, trust that it is. The connector is keyed, so it’s hard to insert it backward—but pay attention to the direction.
- Take plenty of photos as you go. This helped me recall how the part looked assembled and allowed me to retrace my steps later. Bambu’s Wiki is excellent, but it doesn’t cover this exact procedure. You’ll need to reference both the bed heater replacement and heat bed leveling videos.
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I ordered this on a Sunday and received it Thursday (ships from New Hampshire). The purchase was via Shopify, which didn’t inspire confidence. It’s clearly a one-man operation based on the other homebrew items sold on his site. It seems like something he engineered for his own use case—maybe PC or Nylon?
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Disaster struck early. What went wrong:
- I failed to cut away the RTV silicone glue from the connector. Use an X-Acto knife and tweezers or a dental pick—get it ALL off.
- I pushed too hard on the connector waiting for that tactile “snap” that never came. I ended up ripping off the mating PCB connector and had to re-solder it back on, not a hard task but not trivial either. (Replacement board: $8 Heatbed Sensor Interface Board | Bambu Lab USA Store) in case you make this mistake yourself.
- The instructions were detailed, but your experience may differ depending on your printer. Why? The device works by patching in a resistor-soldered cable (measured 2K Ohms per lead if you want to DIY). His PDF photos show longer wires than what I had, which is why I had to disassemble the entire print bed. You may not need to.
If you’ve never disassembled a print bed, Bambu’s site has instructions—but they’re sparse and lack the detailed videos other parts get. I had to consult both the bed replacement and heater glue tutorials to fully understand the process.
- These three Wiki pages are the ones to review before starting. Each one has part of the needed info:
- Photos of what this looked like:
(Note: I disassembled my print bed. YOU MAY NOT NEED TO!)
Picture gallery of work in progress
Nozzle Temp Deregulator
The nozzle was a little bit easier.
Recommendations:
- It’s much easier if you use a brand new nozzle. Removing the baked-on thermal grease was a chore—I actually had to use a drill to extract the thermistor. I then cleaned the surface with a Dremel brass brush, but even after that, I noticed significant corrosion on the hardened steel.
- Don’t use the Bambu thermal grease if you can avoid it. It desiccates quickly and hardens like dried spackle, but is even harder to remove.
- If you have CPU thermal grease on hand, it’s better than what Bambu provides. I used GD900 Thermal Paste, but any high-quality, non-curing CPU paste will do. Look for “non-curing” in the datasheet—that type doesn’t dry into a hard cake.
After I un-caked the leftover filament, scraped off the baked-on ceramic heater, and drilled out the broken thermistor wire, installation was fairly straightforward. But I won’t do that again. New nozzles are cheap, and that’s what I’ll use from now on. I had a spare but didn’t want to use it for some dumb reason. In my defense, I guess I wasn’t anticipating the Charlie Foxtrot of a mess that desiccated cheap grease that Bambu prefers given my experience in system building. We don’t see this level of desiccation for CPUs but then again, most CPUs don’t operate at 300C either so that might be the reason. After breaking off the thermistor wire, I was committed to cleaning the old one. Never again!!
Scrapbook of the mess involved
Reattachment was fairly simple. Routing the extra wire with the fat resistor (shrink-tubed in) meant I had to route it outside the toolhead wire clip. Bambu never provided enough space for the wiring mess to begin with, and this add-on didn’t help—but it seems to work for now. Here’s a photo.
The parts as they arrived—clearly sourced directly from Bambu at $24 for a 3-pack. So you’re paying roughly $24 each for him to solder in a resistor (worth it in my view).
Conclusion
Click for Final Report
I had a very specific use case, so I’ll explain my assumptions and findings. Your experience may differ.
Assumption: Use of higher-temp filaments like PA6 Nylon and PC, in two separate scenarios.
I’ve already printed successfully with PC filament. The HZ3D/CC3D filament I use is easy to work with, but I already have the nozzle set to 300 °C—the P1P’s maximum. I had hoped it would flow better at even higher temps, which I still plan to test.
Nylon/PA6 was a different challenge. I assumed it required a very hot heatbed. I bought a 200g sample spool of Gizmodorks PA6 last year, but I never could get it to stick well, even with all the typical tricks: Garolite/G10 build plate (designed for Nylon), and Vision Miner’s overpriced Nano-Polymer Adhesive ($45/120ml). Nothing worked, so I assumed the issue was my printer.
Turns out, it was the filament. I tried Sunlu Easy PA, which likely has some additive—it printed well at various temps, not just those this mod enables. I was able to get Gizmodorks PA6 to print shallow layers with these mods but the layer separation problem never went away so I am declaring the mod unsuccessful in solving this issue, but only after insulating my enclosure and letting the interior reach 60 °C did the filament stick. BTW: The heatbed getting to 120 °C and letting it heat soak the chamber with the nozzle set to 100 °C with the part fan on, allowed me to get the chamber up to a solid 60 °C but then I started to get spurious error s like cover fell off and bed not level which I must assume are the electronics overheating… hmmm… 
My assumptions were wrong, and this upgrade didn’t make a real difference. Plus, the build plate deregulator shuts down at 120 °C—a likely safety feature on the P1P. Claims of the bed reaching 133 °C are unverified. When thermal shutdown kicks in, the printer requires a five-minute cooldown before restarting. That was nerve-wracking, but repeat tests confirmed it’s a consistent behavior. I now limit the panel setting to 96 °C, which reads as 120 °C on an external thermometer.
When I contacted the seller of this mod, he said behavior varies across printers. To his credit, he responded to my email within 24 hours, maybe Bambu should hire him. 