trusting software for saftey would be mad. every firmware update could introduce a bug
That is wrong on multiple levels.
Things like anti-lock brakes, adaptive cruise control are software safety implementations. Limiting the temperature via a software limit is a software safety implementation.
Firmware updates are quite often to resolve a software bug.
Relying on a thermal fuse is your failsafe backup in the event the software fails to limit the temperature. The goal is for the software limits to prevent over temperature. Needless to say but the thermal fuse damages your machine but it prevents you from burning down your house.
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Both the x1e and ps are rated for the same chamber temp and their oretty similar in general so i use a 400 watt ptc fan and a inkbird itc-308 temperature controller and i see no reason for the p1s to be in any danger running at maybe 320 to 330 celcius max if the x1e can do it. They already over engineered the p1s for what its capabilities are and there’s nothing in the print head restricting or putting you in danger getting it up to 345 celsius.
Your machine, go for it. Just be mindful that you, based on your opinion, have taken Bambu Labs liability and strapped it to your back.
People void their warranties everyday making modifications of all sorts, cars are real popular in that regard. Most times everything works out just fine, but occasionally disaster strikes.
Man i really appreciate you for this detailed of a response and honestly i have a lot of questions and might need to ask you one or two qhen i get started in that but i feel like you managed to fit the nozzle heaters wires really well regardless of the crossed wires but when you were saying I may or may not have to remove my print bed im VERY curious what you meant, obviously i have a p1s so i was wondering if theres any steps i can take to avoid removing it lol. I got the switchable model so i can always revert to stock temps and i dont plan to have my bed temp over 120 tbh but if you could help me out on understanding what you meant on maybe or maybe not having to remove the bed I’d really appreciate it. Thanks already for all your advice and your full review along with the tips, ill definitely be using that as a guide since i dont have any real instructions past what you’ve said. Oh and i have cpu thermal past but i got slice engineering thermal paste and it had a lot of really good reviews everywhere i looked but i have noctua thermal paste if it doesn’t work but from what ive read it’s what im supposed to use at these temps for this exact purpose. It’s a boron nitride thermal paste. It says its conductive in its properties so I’ll double check that.
I was also really curious if you managed to figure out why this safety mechanism kick in at 120⁰ celsius because i planeed to stick with a max bed temp of 120 celsius. Any hrlp is appreciated.
I have not pursued that question because in my view, the answer probably won’t change my approach. I just chalked it up to either some form of thermal protection and/or circuit protection. Either way, the intent of this add-on was a solution for which I’m still seeking the problem it can solve for me personally. To that end, if there is a safety circuit in place, that’s a good thing as it will protect me from this modification I just made.
There’s a saying in electrical engineering “You can’t make anything idiot proof because the idiots are too ingenious”. I am one of those idiots.
Hey just a follow up, you were spot on with the thermal protection being the culprit. I spoke with spearhead equipment and they exlalined that every printer seems to have a different point at which it maxes out the thermal runaway but they all seem to be in-between 120 and 135 celsius so i gotta just cross my fingers and hope for as much heat as i can get safely but i will say ive mostly been experimenting with tpu honeycomb padding for a project and i havent maxed my temps out yet with it but this has still been really useful for those filaments that need just at tad over 100 at the bed and just a lil over 300 at the nozzle! Thanks again for your insight and explanation of your experience!
Im honestly not sure what size but i think someone mentioned it in this thread or whatever it would be called lol. Sorry, i know a direct answe would be a lot more helpful. If you comment on comment on the post “Olias” made you would probably have some luck or maybe one of the folks like this one who commented that “its cheaper to just build it with your own resistor” (not saying their wrong cause their not only right but it will also be easier to install the beds resistors) the bed resistor from spearhead is very large and i dont remember the exact info but its possibly not necessary for it to be that large but again the post “Olias” made with his FULL experience is genuinely VERY good and insightful. I hope this helps. Your bed wil cut off around 120 celcius but every unit is different on how high it will go til it cuts off but about 120 is basically garunteed. Just be safe bubba
