My P1s stopped extruding half way through a print today and a grinding noise in the toolhead.
I raised a ticket with Bambu (my first) ref this.
This evening I removed the feeder and nozzle, the nozzle was blocked solid with filament .
The feeder was also blocked as it had ground away the surface of the filament.
I cleared the feeder intending to warm the nozzle to 265 deg C then push filament through to clear the nozzle.
Re assembled but nothing.
I opened the toolhead cover again and noticed one of the plugs had fallen out of its socket, I pressed it in again and it now just falls straight out.
So my question is which part do I need to fix this/
The plug is the one for the small ribbon cable leading to the left top side of the feeder - pics attached.
Any help appreciated
If it’s the cable, that comes with the replacement extruders that Bambu sells. Very easy to replace, only 3 screws.
If the issue is the plug, you can replace that as well. They sell an extruder board and have a walk through on replacing it. Just take your time and do so mindfully and it’s not a hard job to do. Might take at most an hour.
That is the filament sensor plug. It probably got pulled out when you were removing the clog.
If it won’t stay in it’s plugged in wrong. If you look at it closely you’ll see that it has to be plugged in so each set of pins goes into the female equivalent on the board. It snaps kinda. You’d have to work hard to break the pins or connector. The ribbon cable breaks first.
If it is broken just purchase a filament sensor from Bambu store. Not expensive. I’d be surprised if it is broken.
Looks like dust or debris is in the socket
Can you take a closeup of this section using Macro Mode on your camera.
If what I am seeing is the case, that PCB connector looks pretty chewed up and would necessitate a replacement of the extruder interface board. Here is the link but wait to see what support comes back with.
This is the connector that would help if you could get a closeup photo.
It’s only $10 and fairly easy to replace. I had to replace mine a couple of weeks back.
One tip I might offer if you decide to go that route. Keep a magnet nearby to place the screws you’ll be taking out. They are way too easy to lose. However, if you purchased a nozzle or extruder in the past, you likely would have been given spare screws. I ended up dropping one and never found it. Fortunately, I had a box of hardware from previous upgrades that had such a screw.
But after losing that screw, when I ordered other spare parts I also jumped at the chance to by this kit of screws. At $15, it will save one’s sanity because it has just about every screw one might lose. 
As someone who had to disassemble and reassemble my toolhead (imo) those connectors need to be handled with care. I personally think they should use different male/female connectors as those are quite delicate. Again, in my opinion. They are very small and if you are going to depend on printer purchasers to assemble/disassemble as part of your warranty support I would have used more robust connectors.
Buy the screw kit Olias talks about. That is just a recommendation above and beyond your issue. You haven’t lived until you have had to deal with the ribbon cable on the filament sensor.
Buy some forceps and tweezers.
You said it brother!!!
Granted, I was not present at the Bambu design reviews so in all fairness, I accept any criticism of being a Monday Morning Quarterback. However, as someone with too many years of industry experience under my belt, it’s clear that the choice to use fine-pitch connectors here missed a key design consideration. While these connectors are lightweight and offer a secure PCB interface—important when reducing mass in the tool head—they aren’t built for repeated connecting and disconnecting. A more durable option, like locking-style Hirose connectors, would have been a better fit for this application. Alternatively, using an intermediate proven technology like a flex-PC cable, similar to what’s common in inkjet print heads, would have significantly improved durability and long-term reliability and could be made to be hot swappable. Given that two of the cables in the extruder interface board were flex-PC, proves Bambu is familiar with this design choice.
If a design engineer had approached my company, any reasonable Sales Engineer would have flagged this immediately as a risk for premature wear and recommended against its adoption in lieu of an alternative such as suggested above, especially in a consumer product where untrained users are likely to handle the connectors. Fine-pitch connectors work well in miniaturized devices like cell phones, but they’re not designed for easy swapping or servicing. Asking customers to handle such delicate components almost guarantees frequent failures and frustration.
Fine-pitch connectors have their place, but not in a design where frequent part swaps or maintenance are expected. A more robust solution would have avoided these issues entirely and saved users a lot of headaches down the road.
You remember my comment in another thread about people who don’t know how to change a tire buying 3d printers? 'Nuff said.
Try cleaning both sides of the connector with isopropil alcohol and a brush. It looks like it¡s full of debriss so the two part don’t plug properly.
WOW thanks so much for all the advice everyone (with one judgemental exception).
I do have a fluke meter but not the fine point probes needed to read from the plug concerned.
In hindsight looking at the close up of the plug it appears that a small pice of the insulation shroud on the top eft pin is missing, the copper is clearly visible on the left but covered on the right!
I am thinking maybe this plug has failed and popped out and been part of the failure.
Ordered the new part already, will update when done.
Thanks again everyone
Hope I wasn’t the judgemental exxception. the change a tire comment was related to an entirely different conversation and different person.
We all know you were talking about me.
I forgive you.
That was you on Reddit that didn’t know what a hammer is?
As someone who managed to “offset up” both the fan cover connector and the one below that (hotend?) I 100% agree.
Having those teeny-tiny pitch connectors also makes me feel extremely old as I was literally in the middle of submitting a support ticket (which required photos)… and only when I took a macro photo of the connectors did I realize they were offset by the full row of pins.
(segway)… this is also why the Tesla EV connector is superior to the CCS1 combo connector… the “curve” of the housing, and triangular shape makes it ergonomic, and nearly impossible to plug an EV car in wrong. Where-as the CCS1 connector is always a 2-handed affair as you have to line up the flat face of the connector just perfectly before it will slide in.
Maybe there’s a P1 “model refresh” in mind for 2025+ 
Is it possible to use x1c extruder and pcb for it instead? Its connectors are much better.
Welcome to the community.
To answer your question; no, it’s not possible despite the fact that the two technologies are nearly identical, there is enough difference, not mention firmware, where it simply will not work.
Thanks for your reply. Then can’t we replace the connector on the board and the plug on the sensor cable with some compatible but better ones?
Well… as in everything, if one has the skill and the equipment, one code desolder the connector. A fine pitch solder iron goes for as little as $200 and then one would need a microscope suitable for such a job which can be had on Amazon for between $30 and $50. A professional grade machine would cost north of $5K.
https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fm2032.html
https://paceworldwide.com/prc2000-miniature-microminiature-electronic-repair
I used to have access this type of equipment and my company let me use it to attempt repairs my own electronics. I was successful only half the time primarily because I lack the skill even though I was once certified.
However, even if one could desolder the connector, these I believe are 0.125mm pitch if my memory serves. Even if one could remove the old connector, what would go into its place? You still have 0.125mm pads that you have to solder to. It’s not like they make an adapter for such a purpose. I supposed one could design a PCB and send it off to PCBWay for $100 per prototype but the whole board set cost under $75.
Here’s a photo I just took now of the boards I replaced a few months ago just to give a perspective as to what we mean when we say “fine Pitch” connectors. The lower half of the ruler by the way is 0.5mm gradient the top is 1mm scale.
Click twice to zoom in.
Maybe it’s just me but I prefer the connectors that the P1 and X1E use and find them more robust than the JST connectors the X1C uses.
