Hi guys,
I have buy an P2S combo with AMS 2 PRO and i have noted that ;
if I want use the ams2pro in drying mode is not allow while print is running . I can understand this ,due to the power supply of p2s is not enough powerful( not the best solution in myho);
the ausiliary power supply for ams 2 pro is not included (again is not the best solution , other brand like anycubic include this power supply );
the documentation on about is not totally clear , personally I have serch a lot before found the right info on about.
I don’t have found nothing on about the schematics of 6-pin cable for ams 2 pro. I can immagine 2 pole is used for 24v , and the other 4-pin is use for can bus (in/out) for the ams chain .
Is not allow to run the drying mode of ams2pro with app “Bambu Handy”;
Another thing : is not possible to see the totally print time in the app “bambu Handy”.
Someone have noted this ?
I can’t help you with the AMS 2 wiring issue, but regarding point 5 (printing hours), to see the total printing hours in the Handy app, I do the following:
Go to your profile and click on the creator badge; it will show you the total printing hours.
The creator badge appears after printing more than 100 models and exceeding 500 printing hours.
That’s how I used to check it, but I think you’re right and there should be an easier way for users to view their total printing hours (and other stats).
This is the answer, as the creator badge does not appear if you print something from printer storage, so only cloud prints count towards the badge apparently
Let me say this feature is very “stupid” and don’t make a sense. With my anycubic Kobra S1 combo (359€ ) I can see this info in app. I can’t believe this is not possible in bambu lab systems.
I do not see this as usefull in my case but Handy let you rename your printer, and even shows its serial number or firmware version, I agree that is should not be difficult for them to add the printing time.
About the drying function not available in Handy, I agree with you, this is a feature that could be added too. But I would not be surprised if there were some safety reasons around this choice.
Same thing with the schematics : it is not an open source printer, do not be surprised if they will not tell you this kind of thing. We only barely know some pieces of their gcode! Does it change anything for me? Absolutely not, and I might not be the only in that case. But I can totally understand that you would like to know more about your printer!
First of all, thanks for your reply.
Regarding the drying function, I assume it’s for safety reasons, but the question is: how many people stay in front of the AMS to monitor its status during drying?
In my opinion, the remote control function is the best for optimizing waiting times. The other company (Anycubic in my case) has this remote control feature and it’s very useful. Another issue is that they don’t include the “optional” power supply for drying during printing . Ok you can buy with low price , but anycubic include this power supply . @dedge
Has anyone figured out how to run the AMS 2 while printing?? It’s entirely useless to dry the material and then shut it off to print. Hydrophilic polymers start absorbing moisture IMMEDIATELY. Some High end Engineering polymers require constant heat to keep moisture out. I saw some folks in Europe have been able to do it as their power grid has more amperage (?), but I have the external power supply plugged into the AMS 2 so why would it be a power issue?
The AMS is sealed. Not great, but it is. I’ve run Nylon, PET, PC-ABS without issue.
How many owners of the PS2 are using it to print high end engineering filament? I’d wager most of the owners won’t venture beyond ASA/ABS. Even then those that live in very humid environments would benefit little from drying while printing.
Drying the filament in a mostly airtight container and leaving it there is fine. I can dry PA6 in the HT, and leave it. The RH inside rises very slowly over weeks for me. Obviously that’s not needed but my point is it holds after drying. More than long enough to complete a print.
Relative Humidity and internal moisture content are not the same thing. I purchased this to print high end hydrophilic materials, so I would love for this function to work.
I’m not going to argue it. Even with Nylon I see the enclosure itself more important than it being heated while printing. Can’t be but so high end if you’re using an H-series. The chamber heats to 65, the bed is 110-120 the hot end 310ish.
I’ve printed PET, PC, PC-ABS a number of Nylons and I can’t tell you one that would benefit from drying while printing that a good dry and seal in a relatively dry container while printing. BTW, I’m aware of what the different of RH and water content. Each has a impact on the other and are not independent variables for this sake.
Furthermore the AMS would have to have all the same filaments, or ones that are close together in drying temp/time. I’m sure that the filament being closer to the glass temp when being fed isn’t going to go over well either. At that point the only real option is the HT, which will at least let you dry the “high end” filament in it before using.
The most you are going to get is a percentage of the drying temp of the filament. I don’t see how that will do anything for your print. No more than desiccant will do.
