Did you add the washers? In the end i got under extrusion errors with 3 washers. I settles on 1 washer. You just want to lower the stress on the extruder motor a bit. Check your ptfe tubes for free travel of filament aswell …
I tried the 3 washers and just reverted to 1 as you suggested and the print was successful. I did also note some plastic debris in the extruder which wasn’t there last time, so also cleaned again.
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Ugh still having issues. Played around with flow rate and no good either. I successfully printed a 20hr print flawlessly with the 0.2mm nozzle and now I’m having issues despite not changing ANYTHING.
Extruder overload or underextruding?
Under, but it’s really inconsistent. I may have narrowed it down to a fault AMS motor. Tried the filament in a different slot and seems to be working for now. I did have a blockage in the AMS slot and had to disassemble it to clear. Maybe it’s damaged the motor?
This topic is for overload. The washers arent going to fix under extrusion. Make sure your ptfe tubes are clear and you lid or door is open when printing pla/petg. Under extrusion can also be from putting in too many washers as stated as solution for overload above. Otherwise underextrusion is a whole different issue
The overloaded message was what started this whole process for me in the first place.
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I wish I had read this before buying !!! One day into ownership and I have a printer which doesn’t work. I have described the problem to Bambu Support, given it is one day old I’m not going to get involved in trying to fix it myself. Either they come up with a permanent fix or it’s going back. Shame, having had a Prusa 3i with an mmu I was really looking forward to just printing without having to fix stuff all the time.
Just add a washer, its a great printer
Far enough… but a) I don’t want to pay for a ‘it just does it’ and then have to work out what’s going wrong and b) my problems seem to have multiplied……as I added to my recent ticket…
The printer cannot perform a cold pull.
When I try to load/purge or attempt a cold pull:
the extruder pulls/grips the filament briefly,
then the gears click,
no filament comes out of the nozzle,
the filament then becomes completely stuck and cannot be moved in or out.
If I remove the hotend, I find the filament has snapped above the hotend, and I can pull the remaining filament out from the top.
This repeats after clearing and reloading.
This suggests the filament is hitting a blockage in the hotend / heat break / nozzle, the extruder then stalls, and the filament snaps before it can be pulled through.
I would appreciate some help here. I have only had this printer a day.
I don’t mind fixing it myself if Bambu can tell me what’s wrong I just don’t want to troubleshoot the issue on my own when I have only owned the printer for a day.
Do we know where the support tickets are investigated ? I sent my ticket early this afternoon in UK. No answer yet.
That sounds like PLA heatcreep. Did you have the door or lid open during printing? Its a realy anoying problem to fix but it happens on al closed printers.
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Outch, that is very unfortunate indeed. But you have done the right thing by immediately filing a ticket. If nothing else, it clearly secures the warranty.
Usually, tickets are handled in China, so it is quite likely that a response will not come before next week. Furthermore, it can occur that support is overloaded. Sale periods for example can place an extra burden on support.
In the meantime, there are a few things which you could try without jeopardizing warranty. It is a bit difficult to diagnose without detailed views or descriptions though. We also need to keep in mind that there may be travel damage or indeed a serious flaw in the printer. But your i3 experience could help.
From your description, you could follow the filament path backwards. Since you suspect a nozzle clog, you could use the “hot hex key” cold pull. On my X1, it is the only method I use. Usually several times in a row while also using manually inserted filament to make sure I have cleared the clog.
This is also a good opportunity to check if the nozzle is bent, misaligned or was not properly clipped into its bracket.
You may also have a spare nozzle to swap in for a quick check.
This is also a good opportunity to check the operation of the filament cutter blade. On the X1, overtightening the screw can lead to the blade getting stuck. Shown in Fig 2 here.
A loose, misaligned or blunt blade can also cause all kinds of issues. There should be replacement blades in a small cardboard pouch in the toolbox.
These are relatively easy and quick things to check. After this, it gets a bit more involved. To move further up, we may need to get a better look at the extruder. Hopefully, this will not become neccessary but it may be something sensible to do while waiting for support to get back into the office and work their way through to your ticket.
While there may of course be serious manufacturing or travel induced defects, I do hope that your issue has an easier an quicker solution.
Should you arrive at the point where you feel able to try another print, note that the Bambu’s have higher speeds than the i3 you are used to. They react much more sensitively to filament moisture for example. So if the filament has travelled the 7 seas for over a month, it is usually a good idea to dry it fresh from the bag.
Furthermore, the friction in the PTFE’s and in particular a slight gap caused by PTFE’s not sitting properly or not cut straight can cause a lot of frustration. It is an easy inspection and fix though.
For a first next print, I’d recommend printing from the rear spool holder rather than using the AMS. This can help in further diagnostics should that become neccessary.
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Apologies if I am speaking out of turn here, but I am interested in upgrading to a P2S and this thread is mildly disturbing to me.
I don’t currently have a P2S, but this does sound very similar to a common buffer problem the P1S had (mine had it) where the buffer when fully extended would occasionally (randomly, rarely) kink the fiber and refuse to release. On the P1S this usually resulted in broken fiber, but occasionally caused an extruder fault. It didn’t happen often, but when it did the print would fail in a myriad of different ways.
It was also difficult to find because once the fiber broke, the tension released and the buffer retracted. This problem was common enough that a number of tube release/alignment/straightener modifications for the AMS buffer were designed and uploaded to fix this problem. After I installed the first version of this, I never had the problem again (several years actually).
This will sound a little self serving, but I designed a couple myself that you can see at gomezgames2b | Published - MakerWorld. These unfortunately will help no one with a P2S, but If this is the problem these examples should give you an idea of what to look for in the MakerWorld library.
Again, not sure if this is even the issue here, but the symptoms sound very familiar, and I went from random failures (increasing in frequency) to this problem just never happening again (it’s been years).
I think the tendency to kink is actually quite low, but every buffer cycles every 10mm of filament movement which can be hundreds if not thousands of times in a single print, and every cycle is a chance for it to fail.
Thank you. I was advised by support to carry out the same procedures.
I did and found the filament was stuck past the gears and just before the hot end.
I reassembled and tried a manual purge. The new filament (orange) was drawn into the extruder and a small amount of the old filament (clear) came out of the hot end…. so far so good.
Then the extruder stopped drawing filament and the gears just clicked.
I am going to clean out the extruder again and report back to support.
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Excellent that support got back to you quickly.
It does very strongly like a nasty nozzle clog as the root cause. It does not fully rule out things like misalignment or cutter blade, but it is very likely “just” debris in the nozzle.
Try the hot hex key method a few times in a row. You can heat up the nozzle beforehand and use the cleaning needle to dislodge any contaminants but you’ll need to get the debris out with a cold pull.
Or swap in a new nozzle.
This is also a good opportunity to briefly check filament cutter blade operation by manually moving the lever a few times and to check that the screws of the nozzle holder and extruder are tight. With the A-series, this is a known issue.
When firing up the machine again, you may want to consider first doing a manual extrusion using the display. Remove the top PTFE, insert some filament, heat the nozzle using the display controls and once print temp has been achieved, extrude using the display. This can help to observe and feel exactly where and when a problem remains.
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After a few days of good printing I thought I would feedback. I think my problems originated from the fact that I was using Prusament spools in AMS-Pro without realising they are too big. I was unaware of this problem and so assumed the failure to feed filament was a AMS-Pro to extruder problem (because it was normally a MMU2 problem with my Prisa 3i).