Has anyone that has or had a P1S and now also owns a P2S and printed with ASA or PA filaments that require a heated chamber ? I know the P2S chamber isn’t ACTIVE heating but it does use the heat bed and fan to try and maintain a steady internal case temperature (from what I’ve read). Now my question is simple, Is it better at printing these materials or does it suffer like the P1S does with warping or detaching from the print bed on tall models…?
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I would expect the P2S to be as good as the X1C with high-temperature filaments like ASA, ABS, or PA. It does have a chamber temperature sensor which makes it easier to monitor than a P1S.
Pre-heating the chamber before starting the print is a must. Manually set the heat bed to 100-110°C and run the aux fan at 40% or more to circulate the air internally. I’ve found that starting the print after chamber temperature reaches ~40-45 °C is warm enough, but you can wait longer if you have the patience.
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I started printing with ASA yesterday and it was a nightmare… I tried cleaning the bed with soap. I used glue stick but it kept failing.
I’d already dried the filament in an ASM HT but it still didn’t like it.
Today I went out and bout a can of £2 Ultra Hold hair spray from the local cheap shop. I took the clean plate outside and spreayed it evenly until is was soaking (but no runs.)
It’s 6hrs in to a 9hr print so far and it hasn’t shot off the bed yet lol
No changed settings other than a really wide brim, as you can see and a raft of one layer. It seems to work a treat.
My air quality monitor isn’t going off either.
If you look at my printer, I stuck a length of gaffa tap along the edge of the door to keep the heat in and the smell out.
I would say that if you don’t have a heated AMS or a stand alone dryer, don’t bother with anything other than PLA. (In my very (very!) Limited experience.)
Cheers,
Maurora.
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I was a nonbeliever in chamber heat for a while, and used the heatbed-for-30-minutes hack. ABS and ASA was always a struggle, but the CF/GF flavors ended up fine with their extra printability.
If high temp filament is your priority you should not buy a new printer without a chamber heater. Getting the chamber to 55/60 makes an absolute world of difference, turns it from “if i fiddle with it I will succeed” to “fire and forget”. If you only see yourself doing these sorts of prints occasionally, you can get by without it, but it really is transformative.
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I have both printers. At the moment my P1S prints Polymaker ASA way better than my P2S.
Top P1S, Bottom P2s. People are saying there’s a problem with underextrusion on the first layer with the P2S when it’s over 100c. Going to try 100c later see if it makes a difference.
P2S is also much more stinky than P1S.
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Unlike the H2 D/H2 C the P2 S seems to warp things like PC, ABS, and I’m trying ASA carbon fiber right now (specifically poly maker ASA – CF08). We’ll see how it turns out… I suspect it’ll be OK but the stuff is so brittle that you have to use the external spool holder in order to get it not to break.
When I did the calibration for the filament, I had a very difficult time even with glue getting the material off of a cryo- grip glacier smooth plate. Which is a little bit odd to me because I haven’t had that problem before. That said I’ve noticed that the current versions of those plates are not like the old ones which were textured seems they changed how those plates were being made… and the textured options don’t seem to be available anymore (they did not seem to have materials like PETG or ASA grip them so harshly that they would not come completely off the plate without glue, and especially with glue).
im having plate issies with my asa prints , its a large model and at 23% the corners of the plate lift . the furtherinto the print the more it lifts ….i push it down but it has no magnatism to hold it. it seems like the hotter it gets the more the plate lifts and warps. yes plate cleaned ,bed cleaned plate sprayed.
its the magnatism that seems to fail. i put bed down to 75deg and waited , it was still warped.
when cold it magnatises really well…. pla models are brilliant
asa models with 90deg bed is when it turns to ■■■■ .
I will tell you that the P2S did not like polycarbonate. I did eventually install the Voxel PLA Ventobox mod for the P2 S, which should be officially supported by bambu at this point. It can be set up for recirculation mode, which does cause the printer to filter the air as well as move it more effectively around the interior of the case and I eventually got some slightly better PC prints. It did require a lot of rafting, etc. To pin down the corner corners because PC did not print well in that printer.
Conversely, printing exactly the same stuff in the H2 C work without a problem… likewise the X2D is doing a lot better.
Interesting, I had a similar issue with ABS on my P2S so made four little metal clips to hold the PEI plate down, one in each corner. The print still lifted slightly on two corners despite using 3DLAC so I’ve started to look into heating the chamber again.
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hello all, I posted this in an older chat a few days ago. So I copied to here. Here is what my 2cents on the warping issue with pa6. I have two machines that I use the x1c and p2s. I now print 90% of my items with pa6-cf. I had warping issues with both machines. it took a months to figure them out. Here is the list of things that I found help solve that issue. sorry if this gets long but it was quite the journey.
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first and foremost, you all know there is no way around it dry the filament first. I dry in the AMS ht for 12hours at 80c. If the RH is below 10 printing can happen, if not dry again for another 12hr. It doesn’t matter if it is a brand-new spool or not. a min. of 12 hr of drying is needed. I would highly recommend that you use a desiccant holder in the middle of the spool. There is just no way to get enough desiccant packs in the ams ht. to help keep the filament dry. there are lots of options in Makers World to pick from.
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I went all over the board changing temp and flow settings. In the end I found the default Bambo setting worked the best, for the most consistent print with a good balance in strength and quality. yes a few degrees up or down on plate temp or nozzle temp does have an effect and is effective for balancing out each machine as they all act slightly different. finding the rout cause in the environmental conditions, hardware, or part orientation was the biggest gains in combatting the warping vs settings alone.
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Hot end. Yes I had some good prints with .4 nozzle but few. clogs were an issue on both machines. switching to .6 nozzle with the .24 layer height setting gave the best visual and was faster then .4. Nozzle clogs where almost a thing of the past. .6 nozzle with .3 layer height is my standard I use now. Note: I have ran into a spool here and there that the quality of the filament was well……not great. ovality was not up to the standards. when that happens i use a .6 HF nozzle. but that is pretty rare.
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Pre heating the camber was a big game changer. By all means close the door and any and all vents in the riser. heat is your biggest friend. the X1C takes a far bit longer then the P2S to achieve, but I found that a min chamber temp of 43c at the start of the print limited the amount of warping. Most of my prints are a min of 6 hours and most are 17hours. the chamber temp at the end is most always in the 55c range.
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Print plates. well….. lets say I have a collection of plates now that balances on absurdness. In the end the Bambo engineering plate with Bambo PA glue stick had the highest level of success. Do note that I did find that using a smooth PEI plate would bubble the plate after 3-5 uses. Yes it worked but plate consumption due to damage was high. Cold plate is my second choice.
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Let the print cool down slowly as possible. I have set up a heated cooling rack. I remove the plate within 30mins of the print finishing and place it on a stack of microfiber towel and cover it with towels and a heating blanket let on low. this allows the print to cool down over several hours vs. fulling cooling down in the printer.
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Print orientation was another big thing. you would think that hey this part has a nice flat bottom lets set the print on that. well, that is not always the case. I make these L shape brackets that are 25mm deep 60mm long and 45mm tall with 3mm thickness they would always warp the base. as soon as i turned it vertical zero warping overall better look, and stronger. Yes, I had to add 3 grams of support in doing that plus some mouse ears, but to keep a 30-gram part from warping beyond use was a good trade off to me.
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As we all know PA6-cf when dried is very stiff. Making sure that the PTFE tube has smooth radius and is not limited in its movement is another key thing. All those little clips that I added to hold the PTFE tubes nice along the back, in the waste backet now. the tube has to have room to move. IF you ever watch the filament load in you wouldn’t believe your eyes on how much the tube changes shape do to the stiffness of the filament. I would highly recommend a riser of a min of 25mm to stop the tube from contacting the glass top. that caused more of filament extruder issues but worth noting. replacement of PTFE tube will be needed if you are doing any volume of printing with CF or GF. I am lucky to get 6 spools before tube ware is an issue. Also if you are using the star PTFE tubing keep an extra eye on it. CF/gf is so abrasive it will eat the ridges off the star in no time at all leading to over size mis shaped tube. the star tube is a great idea but just not for filaments with high abrasiveness.
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last and final thing. this is for the P2S. the air exchanger/filter on the right side of the chamber blows directly onto the print plate. this was a fun one to find. As it depended on print orientation to whether or not you would have warping or not. the air movement created a colder spot in the center of the plate. I ended up printing a diverter that directs that air at a 45deg angle up to eliminate that air flow from over cooling the parts after the first 3 layers. I could sit and watch the part warp as soon as the air filter turned on.
Sorry this is so long. it was a journey for sure. with so much learned along the way. I hope this might help you all with printing PA6-CF/GF. Happy printing.
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