P2S PLA printing issue

ZeFab · January 28, 2026, 10:20am

Hello, coming from a Creality ender 3 pro to a P2S, big jump and was amazed as to how everything worked out of the box (for the most) as I managed to print PLA, PETG and ABS without any fuss.

About 60 hours in, the first cracks started to appear

I apologize in advance if these seems trite questions/issues, but I’m not sure how to resolve.

I’ve been trying to print this model with mixed success:

Plate 1
Plate 1 failed a couple of times because when reaching 50%-60%, the supports lost adherence to the plate. I overcame the issue by adding a 20mm brim around the object as well as the supports and using glue on the plate. The result was ok-ish (horizontal line in pic 4 did not bode well)

Plate 2
I did the same for Plate 2 but got a separation shortly after the initial layers, I let it continue as it wasn’t visibile at the beginning and I thought to fix it later during post processing.

Plate 3
Went on to plate 3 but it started a weird clumps around 50%, so I stopped.

Retried with 0 settings to the brim distance for the object but midway I still found the brim was spot on the pat but the object was separating, paused and helped as much as I could with blue tack and duct tape just to finish the print but the result is far from optimal…

Plate 8
Plate 8 is made of two objects, I’ve tried printing first the small one with a raft and glue instead of brim as I noticed that even with a 0 distance from the object the brim still leaves a small gap, the result was good and I thought I had found the solution:

However when printing the second, much longer, object from the plate, the sticking issue came out shortly after the raft was printed:

I’m using e PLA, with the profile downloaded from their website and a 0.4 HF hardened nozzle.

The filament has been dried and is kept in the AMS.

I’m also using P2S external ventilation kit, which the slicer/printer set to 30% with PLA, but I raised this to 60%-70% as my vent is connected via a duct to an external filter.

During print the chamber is about 25° - 29°, the part fan is off completely for the first 4 layers and the bed I tried to set to 50°, 55° and 60° but without visible changes.

These are my settings in Bambu Studio:

Quality

Strenght

Speed

Support (with Raft)

Support (with Brim)

Others (with Brim, when Raft is selected in the Support, Brim for the object is ignored)

Any help would be much appreciated

DaveMR · February 1, 2026, 10:28am

I’ve had similar issues with the P2S - I’ve not managed to get a single print to work with eSun PLA, not even a benchy. With Bambulab fillament, its better, but I still have a lot of spaghetti defects and things falling off the bed. It seems to be a really bad printer so far I got better prints from my A1 Mini, with no messing around.

3-Dr_Lighthouse_Desi · February 1, 2026, 12:40pm

Glue is used to facilitate the release of a print, NOT to help it stick.

May I suggest you clean the build plate. Water & soap only, certainly NO alcohol!

ZeFab · February 1, 2026, 1:40pm

Hi, many thanks for the suggestions, the build plate is cleaned and dried properly between each print, no alchohol used.

I’m not sure I understand your comment about glue though.
From what I’ve seen, with non-bambu filaments (I’ve tried e and lu) without glue you get warping, so the glue helps sticking, not releasing.

Also, with the tall prints I’ve shown in the thread, without glue and at least 10-20mm brim around objects and supports and 0 distance from them, the supports, and often the object themselves, get separated (usually somewhere past 50%, sometimes earlier) from the plate.
So again, in my case the glue really help them stick, not release.

I’ve printed smaller objects with Bambu PLA without issues, so it might be a matter of settings, certailny e PLA profile or the generic PLA do not work well for me with these two brands.

I’ll try one of these tall prints also with Bambu filament, to see if the result end up to be the same or if the solution is to ditch other filaments and buy only Bambu…

3-Dr_Lighthouse_Desi · February 1, 2026, 1:55pm

From the Bambi Wiki: “““regular glue stick can also be applied to the build plate to make it easier to remove models printed with certain high-adhesion filaments.”””

ZeFab · February 1, 2026, 2:14pm

Hi, have you used Bambu glue?

I’m not using Bambu glue, but I’m pretty sure when you glue things, you want them to stick together, not facilitate removal from each other.

Also, at the risk of becoming pedantic, if you read the article it says about the stick: “…It provides suitable adhesion between the build plate and the model” and yes it also says “to make it easier to remove models printed with certain high-adhesion filaments”, but it mentions PC and PA.

If you keep reading about Bambu liquid glue on the same page, it says: “It is an adhesive specially developed for 3D printing, suitable for printing filaments such as PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, TPU and PET. When using Bambu Lab Liquid Glue, constant adhesion is maintained without worrying about models falling off or warping.”

So, I really think glue with PLA is used to make objects stick, not easy to remove, which is what I’ve been also experiencing so far.

3-Dr_Lighthouse_Desi · February 1, 2026, 2:32pm

Only trying to help. Search this forum on the use of glue.

ZeFab · February 1, 2026, 2:41pm

I thanked you for the help, but I also advise you to read the articles you recommend.

Cheers.

ZeFab · February 13, 2026, 12:27am

I’m sure there are a lot of settings that could help achieve the same in a different way, this is what worked for me on tall prints which kept losing adherence and fell over mid-way:

Use glue stick for better adherence
Increase Outer and Inner Brim size to 10mm
Increase Support Initial Layer expansion to 15mm
Add Custom supports to make tall prints more stable

Bullocks · February 13, 2026, 12:41am

Not P2S perspective, but I’ve had much better luck with large PLA print warp resistance on a cool plate. I think the more solid mechanical base connection [under glass temp] makes your print either be straight completely or warped to complete oblivion, no inbetween

You can also remove elephant foot compensation to make the brim even more turbo attached.

The role of glue is both adherance at temp/first contact AND release at cool, good ones should be doing both, it isn’t a contradiction. Simple PVA elmers is mostly for release, which is why its great for TPU - dirt cheap and solves that side of the problem.

R3d-Five · February 13, 2026, 12:47am

Judging by your pics this isn’t so. You have one part that is smaller than the massive amount of glue/something on the plate.
I’m partially in the camp that your adhesion issues are a dirty plate. The suggestion to clean with soap and water was a good one.

You could use the BL settings. The ones for PLA are pretty spot on and work well for other brands.
As well, some of those show signs of wet filament. Dry even new filament, it can be wet.

I’ll second the cool plate. I only use brims now when the part is very small. More so I can find it, I’m old. Bunches of small parts on my desk tend to walk away.

ZeFab · February 13, 2026, 1:04am

Hi, many thanks for the suggestions.

You’re looking at the end result, when starting the plate was clean, with glue applied where the print would be, sometimes I went “happy” with the glue or, hence the additional smear.

PLA was also properly dried, so it’s was not humid filament issue.

Anyway, The settings I mentioned above worked well and I did not experience further disconnetions, so I’ll stick with those and hope they can help others.

ZeFab · February 13, 2026, 1:08am

Hi and thanks for the suggestion!

I tried a Cool plate (3rd party), but without glue or extended Brim/support base layer I had same issues as the other, so in the end I switched back to the Bambu Textured PEI plate.