I’m reorganizing this thread to make the situation clearer and to include all the tests done so far.
I’m printing some functional boxes (organizer parts) with a P2S, mainly using them as test pieces. Even though they are not aesthetic parts, the surface issues are very noticeable and consistent across prints.
Printer & Setup
Printer: P2S
Usage time: < 200 hours
Firmware: 01.01.01.00
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Layer height: 0.2 mm (standard profile)
Infill: Gyroid (only change from stock profile)
To be on the safe side, last weekend I:
Cleaned and re-tensioned everything following the official wiki
Checked and tightened the extruder assembly screws
File used for testing:
The prints shown below were produced using the original 3MF from MakerWorld, without modifying geometry.
Only slicer parameters mentioned in this post were changed during testing.
The main issue is related to surface artifacts on the walls, which appear to be a combination of:
Z-banding (very visible and widespread)
Hull lines, depending on geometry
Bad seams
Hull lines appear more frequently where there is a transition between filled and unfilled areas, where shrinkage, cooling, and layer time differ significantly.
I would expect some hull lines in these cases, but not this pronounced.
Z-banding, however, seems present almost everywhere, regardless of geometry.
In addition, I don’t know what they’re called, but there are grooves that start from the points where the seams are. (Reference on Photos - Different Object 2)
(If I’m using incorrect terminology or making wrong assumptions, please feel free to correct me.)
Tests Already Performed
Based on suggestions from the thread, I tested the following:
Test 1:
Reduced volumetric speed to 14
Enabled “Don’t slow down outer walls”
Aux part cooling fan at 100%, but airflow is deviated and does not directly hit the part
Z-hop on retract set to 1 mm
Tested outer wall speeds = 60 mm/s
Test 2:
Move it onto the floor to have a more stable surface on which to place the printer.
Complete calibration
Print with default settings again
Unfortunately, none of these changes produced any noticeable improvement compared to the original prints.
Additional Notes
I’m only showing photos from plate 6 (last print), but the same issues are present on previous plates and other objects.
Thank you in advance for any insight or suggestions.
default settings and accelerations are overkill, volumetric speeds up to 25 that will never happen in my printer. you need to post you full settings for the forum to read
these are my personal settings for some filaments I use, they fit my needs and they just work for the materials, but prints come good. (printing asa cf atm, it’s coming very good since I started to lower first layer accel to ZERO)
I print standard cheap PLA at 220° volumetric speed 8 mm3s , this is the slower among the PLA I have. (max layer height)
I print ASA CF (green) at 280 vspeed 7 mm3s, the slower among the ASA I have (max layer height)
This p2s has less than 200 hours of use, but to be on the safe side, I cleaned/retensioned everything following the wiki last weekend.
I also tried tightening the screws in the extruder assembly. I saw a lot of discussion about this for both the A1 and H2 series, so since I was there, I tried it, but nothing changed.
Okay, thank you. I will try these things and print one of those pieces on a separate plate (hoping that having multiple pieces on the same plate to test these changes will not affect the outcome).
I keep the auxiliary fan on because I have a deflector, so the air cools the chamber but does not touch the piece.
I set it this way for a test because the overall flow seems correct, but I saw gaps in some places on the top surfaces.
I tried increasing the flow ratio of the filament, but it produced poor results, for example:
I hope to find a good profile to save that will be suitable for various prints of this type.
I am using a P2S and Bambulab filament, which I assume many people use, so if I manage to achieve something good, I will edit the initial post so that everyone can have all the information in one place.
In about 2/hr, the piece I am printing with these settings should be finished. If anyone has a benchmark to help me set everything up properly and can provide it to me, I will use it to fine-tune everything.
I will print the normal version first, then the modified version, so we can save time and, above all, use less material.
Good. It is a result. Seems hardware related to me. full maintenance with greasing and lubing and checks… let me notice the lines at the bottom tip of the semi holes…. seems also artifacts are the same in every print.. but it’s too bad
I’m afraid that opening a ticket with Bambu will only result in a lot of wasted time and indifferent responses, but if that’s the only way, I’ll resign myself to it.
Mainly because, reading here on the forum, I have yet to find a positive experience with support.
It’s also true, however, that people generally write here when they have problems, not when everything is going well, so it may not be too indicative.
@SupportAssistant maybe you can convince me that opening a ticket isn’t that scary
The fact is a lot of stuff to do is upon the user and it is also implied you had read the manuals fully, at least to diagnose average issues… i had sort of defects in the beginning but then a good maintenance solved them all.
Through this hoping you did not set stuff like pressure advance at 0.2 instead of 0.02 and things like this, right ?
I mean a full maintenance includes checking if the printhead rattles, if the nozzle rattles, is something rattles or have a span of movement that should not have, if nozzle are correctly installed and after all a full calibration.
At this point i strongly suggest you to check if printer can keep up nozzle temperature while printing (printhead need to normally working and moving around) looking for weird temperature readings on your printer’s display. If you see abrupt changes and nozzle constantly adjusting or worse, going too much past 220°, means there’s something breaking soon = hot end doomed → order new asap/ticket
I’ve been watching the printer print for days and during maintenance (with subsequent complete calibration) I haven’t noticed anything strange.
I’ve noticed that the temperatures vary by ±2 degrees, so I don’t know…
At the moment, the printer is on a chest of drawers, which isn’t exactly the most stable place in the world. Would it be useful to try moving the printer to the floor (which couldn’t be more stable), recalibrating it completely, and sending the same piece to print again? (If so, should I send it with the default settings?)
