I have an issue with my P2S that’s plagued me since the first print.
Each time I print something that needs the width of the build plate I get warping where it prints at the right hand side towards the back of the printer. As these are usually large pieces e.g. the drawers for the BLV AMS riser this is causing me a lot of filament wastage. For info I am always using PLA.
Hopefully these links work to show what I mean:
Please note I’ve rotated the build plate that shows the orange image by 90 degrees. The front of the image is actually the right hand side of the build plate.
I also had the same issue with the sliding lid for a box that holds the tools which come with the P2S. This was from Maker World. It was specifically for the P2S but no-one else who’d printed it mentioned having an issue in the comments. I subsequently moved it to the middle of the build plate and it printed ok.
I’ve tried fitting an aux fan cover as per one of the other posts but that hasn’t helped. I’ve also tried a second full calibration and still had the same problem.
If anyone has any advice or has come across this issue I’d really welcome your comments and advice.
Massive parts require a warm ambiance (30°) and draft-free environment in order to print without warping.
Use the heating plate at 50°, reduce the internal ventilation and close the door. If it still doesn’t work, use lacquer (Nelly or 3Dlaque) to attach your piece more securely to the plate.
The first 5mm high is cold sensitive, after that the part was sufisantly rigide to maintain it’s geometric shate.
I reduced the cooling fan temps right down to 10% and reprinted a riser drawer. The layers now stick to the base but the side at the front of the printer has printed a raggedy overhang whereas the one at the back is fine. There are also issues at the front right corner.
I bought this as a fire and forget printer but it doesn’t behave that way and feels a bit over-engineered but not in a useful way. I have had the same issues with both generic and Bambu’s own PLA / profile.
These are exactly the issues I didn’t expect and I wouldn’t have bought the P2S if I knew it had them. What is really galling is other people don’t. Ironically I have a Prusa MK3 that prints these parts fine and isn’t in an enclosure. My brother-in-law’s P1S also prints them fine. It doesn’t have the same air flow system. I may stick to using the Prusa for larger volume prints. Apologies to all but I’m frustrated and angry.
FDM technology causes tensions which tend to cause warping if the cooling of the first layers is too rapid.
When I talk about rapid cooling, I also mean external temperature, print speed, mass of the object, and all the sources that promote rapid cooling and surface tensions. We therefore have several problem sources to explore in order to obtain a good result. Quickly, it’s still much more difficult than slowly in a hot atmosphere without a draft. Your problem is not directly linked to the printer but probably to a combination of factors that need to be addressed, perhaps radically such as installing your printer in a warm place or reducing the number of layers at the bottom of the part in order to limit tensions before the part is sufficiently rigid to no longer twist. Stopping auxiliary ventilation and limiting nozzle ventilation for the first 10 layers (wire parameters) is also a solution like not opening the door when printing begins.
A textured PEI offers better grip than a smooth one. Bonding lacquer also offers good results
Thanks for your detailed reply. I always keep the door closed and there are no drafts in the room. The ambient temperature is reasonable too. I have tried one of your suggestions and still not had briliant results. I will mention one of the other issues I’ve had in a new post. Here’s the thing. I have a Prusa Mk3. It’s properly dialled in and prints larger pieces perfectly. It’s an open format printer (no enclosure) and I don’t have to use adhesive. It feels unacceptable to have to jump through the hoops you suggest for a Bambu P2S 2025 next generation printer that has a temperature controlled enclosure, while wasting a lot of filament trying all sorts of changes to try to get the same results. I’m using the supplied textured pei sheet.
I am also struggling with warping on the P2S, it is my first printer. I think a 45 degrees upwards diffuser has worked best so far, but I have the impression that this might be causing problems with overhangs.
Has anybody tried printing PLA with the door open, would that help?
The only larger area PETG prints I’ve done so far were a couple of bambu spools, which came out fine - but these don’t have any sharp corners, of course.
If your printer prints quickly, it must also cool its layers quickly. Warping is directly linked to the wire cooling too quickly. This is also why we have an auxiliary fan on the right side. We therefore have a conflict, speed = warping.
It is important to consider that if the first layer peels off by 1/10th of a mm; the final warping will be 5mm or more. The solution is multiple.
Lower the printing speed at least on the first 10 layers
Slow down the auxiliary fan
Increase the temperature of the enclosure
Glue the parts with 3Dlac or similar.
Minimize the mass of the object, less full layers, thinner walls
Here are some ideas, it’s up to you to find what suits you best.
On the other hand, you should definitely not open the door!!!
I’m getting really frustrated here. Things I’ve tried:
increased bed temperature
reduced AUX fan speed
installed a diffusor to direct AUX fan airflow upwards
different build plate (super tack vs textured PEI).
added a brim
added “brim ears”
increased first layer height to 0.25mm
gyroid infill instead of grid
PVA glue stick on the textured PEI plate
NOTHING helps reliably. Result: Almost a full spool of PLA filament for the trash.
Doing a single layer test print doesn’t help either, they are always flawless - so how am I supposed to assess if the print will stick properly?
I’m currently trying to print this model from Makerworld: The Lord of the Rings Shadow Box Light Box Lamp by deLira MakerWorld: Download Free 3D Models
I’m having trouble with the boxes, the inner box especially. At least one corner will lift after hours into the print. But this is not the only print that’s giving me warping trouble.
As for the brims: I can not get the brim to stick to the model all around. I set the brim-object gap to zero, yet the brim still only attaches to the model partially, on some sides there’s still a gap between the model and the brim.
Btw, I did this test print twice today, on the textured PEI plate and the super tack. It worked both times. So I’m pretty sure it’s not a dirty plate etc.
If a corner lifts after several hours it is likely that the room is too hot. The PLA must become rigid to withstand the tensions of the upper layers. Try turning off the heating plate after the 10th layer
I am in similar situation, I dont have issues with other materials or build plates (smooth or textured PEI), I can print without issues PETG-HF, PETG-CF, ABS, PLA Tough+ or PLA-CF.
All my problems started with PLA-Matte and it get worse when using the cool plate supertack, I keep getting warping with every plate when using PLA (bambu’s)
I have the printer in a basement that is around 21c and the internal temperate when printing PLA is around 28c to 33c (I dont open the door or the top) . I did try using an upwards diffuser when using the supertack, but that was a fail in every try even with the bed at 50c.
The next steps is to reduce the aux cooling but so far just too many issues with PLA during long prints
I’m pretty sure I know what the cause of this is now and I’m kicking myself I didn’t realise it sooner as I had the same issue with a Prusa MK3.5S printer. I guess I just thought Bambu’s automatic calibration setups took care of the issue.
I think this is to do with first layer calibration i.e. the amount of squishing that happens when the first layer is printed to ensure that the filament sticks to the bed. This is basically how close the print head is to the bed when printing the first layer. My Prusa was way out when I got it. Filament wouldn’t stick to the bed without using 3DLAC and I had the same warping (as the P2S) as edges lifted off the bed further into the print. It had a setting on the printer that I used to change the height until the layer stuck properly and so does the P2S. This fixed my warping completely on the Prusa (which doesn’t have any enclosure and doesn’t need one for PLA). I need to make the same changes on the P2S. At the moment I’m printing smaller pieces on the supplied PEI sheet and getting away with the existing settings. I doubt I would on a smooth sheet.
I can tell that this is an issue with the P2S as the first layer is very thin when it spreads across the bed. It should look a little thicker/more squished but not too thick. There are two settings for this. One is the Z offset and the other is the elephant’s foot. It’s easier to google the issue to find how to adjust them in Bambu Studio than me try to explain it here.
The elephant’s foot setting is usually used to fix a first layer that prints too close to the bed. For that it is changed from 0 to a positive number to get less squish. Bizarrely mine is already set to +0.15 which won’t be helping. It can easily be set to a negative number to get more squish. It needs to be done in small increments and checked. A good indication will be how easily the first layer can be removed from the bed as soon as it’s printed. It shouldn’t be very easy to remove nor require too much pressure, somewhere in-between.
I saw someone else having issues who commented that the heated bed isn’t completely flat. This shouldn’t matter if the first layer is sticking properly. I think the textured pei sheet is more forgiving than a flat surface for a layer that isn’t squishing enough and 3DLAC also helps initially but shouldn’t be needed. Also 3DLAC doesn’t prevent warping of the first few layers later on in the print.
I’m not saying this solution will be a miracle cure for you but it’s definitely worth a try and I will be changing mine once I’ve finished printing my current project. I can tell by eye that the squish isn’t as much as it should be.
You will likely need to save the changes as a new profile name and may need to load it each time you print a new object. I haven’t seen a way of changing this permanently within the settings directly available from the printer.
Elephant’s foot compensation only adjusts the XY dimensions of the layer. It’s to adjust for first layer dimensional inaccuracy caused by first layer squish as well as the weight of the upper layers squishing it out. But you are right that Z offset would adjust the first layer squish.
Another thing to consider is that the P2S bed heater heats up very quickly. While the sensor might have reached the bed temperature setpoint, the whole assembly has not been heat soaked yet, and as the print progress it may cause warping of the bed due to thermal expansion. For large prints I add a 5-10m wait after the bed temperature has been reached in the machine start gcode.
I have this exact same issue on the RHS which is limiting print size fairly severly. Curling and not sticking. Never open the door at all. I will try your suggestions
I also experienced a lot of warping issues. As a solution, I started using the BIQU BIGTREETECH Panda Build Plate CryoGrip Pro. I’m currently printing at 45°C bed temperature with zero warping, and the adhesion is so strong that removing prints from the plate can actually be difficult.
When I first got it, I even printed a single-layer test at 65°C, and I had to scrape the print off with a utility knife. It doesn’t perform the same way with PETG, but for PLA, the adhesion is excellent — it sticks perfectly even when the plate is cold.
not sure if you have enough room left on your build plate but if you can add a strong brim of about 10mm around the perimeter of your part it should hold better to the build plate and resist popping up from warping. Hope this helps. your pic looked tight on room.
The first thing I printed when I received my printer was that little fan redirecting clip in. I haven’t had an issue. Everything I print is as flat as a pancake. Skinny tall things have fallen over couple times which I corrected by adding a “brim”. Otherwise default settings.
Also need to wash the plate and keep clean. I only use a microfibre cloth when handling the plate and never touch it with my bare hands. Always grab it with that microfibre cloth. Hope this helps.
