I am using a transparent PC filament, .4 Nozzle, Bed temp 70 deg, Nozzle 270, cleaned bed first try, model pulled loose. Second try sprayed with hairspray, same result. Open for suggestions.
I have been printing with PETG and PLA with NO adhesion issues. I switched to Inland PC filament and found only one preset for PC and it was under the Bambu group.
I am open for suggestions.
Have you set things up according to the guide?
PC’s recommended bed temperature is 100-120c. It also generally needs an enclosed chamber, and it isn’t advisable to print it on an open frame printer like the A1 series
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Thank you Malc and Sir Poppy for the sound advice. I found the problem, and yes, guide wise, everything was correct.
Please don’t judge me.
I had cleaned the PEI plate for the first time since I ran about 5 kilos through the system. The texture in the plate seemed to be filled up with leftover plastic, which may or may not keep new plastic from sticking to it. I used a solvent for PLA, which is mostly what I had been printing with and it cleaned up nicely. So to be sure all the solvent was gone, I washed it with soap and water. Not real bright, I know, but the solvent was kinda strong and not being sure how toxic it was, I washed it. I then washed it down with alcohol then sprayed a bit of hairspray on it. When I tried to print, it would get a couple layers down and start pulling up on the edges and the nozzle would just rip the whole thing loose. That’s when I started whining for help.
After I sent my request for help, I remember hearing that the accelerator for CA glues is a great degreaser. I wiped the PEI plate down with that accelerator and did not need anything else. BAMMMM I have since printed a dozen or so small and large parts with PC and PLA and all have worked out wonderfully.
Thanks so much for your speedy replies.
Hey all,
New to the community and the 3D world. I purchased this A1 for my son as he is getting into the printer craze. After setting up out of the box and have ran many successful prints, we are encountering problems with the model lifting up at the corners and making little balls of extra filament when making a layer. Once that happens the print just get destroyed when the head comes back to that locations and knocks the print off. We have been cleaning the bed after every 2-3 uses. Also I have taken the head apart to make sure there is no clogging. I’ve gone through a lot of the forums and tried to figure out what we are doing wrong. We will reset and do a random print which turns out fine and then the next one starts messing up again. I will do the benchmark boat print as well as the cube and those turn out perfect. A1 Printer .4MM Nozzle. Generic Filament. I imagine this a user error but its getting frustrating the issues we are encountering. Do y’all recommend any places to start learning how to use Bambu Studio more efficiently. The issues so far have been only on the different downloads through the maker world site. Again this is more than likely a user error. We are trying to follow the recommendations from the forums and Bambu but as of now they have been hit or miss. Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Articulated dragon:
makerworld. com/en/models/109096#profileId-117023
makerworld. com/en/models/633717#profileId-558796
Butterfly:
makerworld. com/en/models/832911#profileId-777599
Tooth:
makerworld. com/en/models/208169#profileId-228229
Toothbrush Holder:
makerworld. com/en/models/32077#profileId-421307
Hi Malachi,
I also have an A1 which I consider one of the best 3D printers in its price range. I am sure I will get some push back on that remark, but walk a mile in my shoes.
I am going to assume you are using the textured PEI plate. Since that plate is what came with my A1, I will try help you through this. If the printer has been acting this way since you got it, changes are one of your temperatures is off a bit, and/or the PEI plate has a film of sorts on it which cannot be removed with alcohol. May I remind all who read this, none of this is carved in stone so don’t beat me up because it did not work for you.
For you Malachi, this may work. Try a different type of filament, one with a decent reputation, and make sure the bed temp and nozzle temp are right in the middle of their suggested temps. The bed temp usually likes it on the higher side of the suggested temps. A solid model like the benchie does not pull up on the corners because there is to much plastic to warp so it prints OK. The real thin prints pull up on the corners because 1, plastic shrinks when it starts cooling down, 2, adhesion to the bed is compromised so when the shrinking starts, the edges start pulling up. I am sure there are other reasons but these 2 are a good place to start.
If you want to know how clean your PEI textured plate is, put some KleanStrip (RT) brush cleaner in a cookie sheet deep enough to cover your plate. Cover cookie sheet with foil and pinch the foil up around the edges to minimize evaporation. Leave it for a half hour or so then remove the plate and scrub the plate with the scrubbie side of a dish sponge. No need to press real hard while scrubbing. If there are contaminants on the plate, chances are you will see them lifted off while you are scrubbing. Scrub both sides.
VERY IMPORTANT - Make sure you follow the precautions on the KleanStrip(RT) can.
Rinse the plate with HOT water, set on edge and let it air dry.
Reinstall the dry plate onto your Beautiful A1 printer and give it another try.
If there are still problems lifting on the corners, wipe the surface down with Insta-Set, available at hobby shops almost everywhere.
As for the little balls of extra filament, it could be one or more of the these: wet filament, improper temp, excessive filament feed speed.
I have found the profiles provided by BambuLabs for filament types to be pretty close to spot on. If you have messed with those, it would be a good idea to go back and revisit your settings.
I would be interested in your findings, good or bad.
Also, I found the pricier hair sprays to be a bit stickier than the cheap stuff but it makes model removal a bit difficult. Sometimes I put the plate in the freezer till it cools enough and the parts just pop off effortlessly.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the insight and we tried your recommendations less the insta-set haven’t gotten that yet. With that being said we still are running into random times it decides to come loose off the bed at different locations or just starting to mess up on random areas of the print. I say that now as one of the prints was almost finished it just started acting weird i dunno put in a service ticket for help as well. Getting frustrated and defeated with random stuff thats happening.
I understand what you are going through. Even the Insta-set does not work every time for all issues. It seems some of the oils from the plastics gets down into the PEI texture and it is difficult at best to get it out. I had to wash mine down again since I responded last time and I had a devil of a time getting anything to stick. I did the brush cleaner first which totally cleaned the plate, then washed it with Dawn, rinsed thoroughly with plenty of hot water and nothing stuck. I washed it down with 90% alcohol with little success. I then wiped it down with the Insta-set and still nothing really good. My next try was Redken hairspray. It is very sticky when you first spray it on but once the plate gets hot, it is not sticky to the touch but does very well with most of the flavors of PLA and PETG. It is difficult to get it off the plate when it is warm but if you let it get cold, just flexing the plate does the job. I am about to order another plate since I forced to many models off the plate before it got cold and now it is all scared up. Nice dragon in the pix, by the way.
Incidentally, Redken hairspray may not always be the answer. You may need remove what ever film is first layer on said plate.
Final note, under Prepare, Others, Bed Adhesion, Skirt loops, make a long skinny model with 4 or 5 Skirt loops, - Brim type outer and inner, brim width 5mm and see what happens. If it still pulls away, the bed temp may be low. Since I have raised my from 45-50 up to 65-70, most models stick pretty well.
There are some test models on Thingy-verse and other places that when the model is printed, certain things will happen to the model and it will indicate what the problem is by the way the model prints. I am thinking of one that has a bunch of very small vertical sticks about 10mm tall, has some overhang parts that tell if the nozzle temp is correct and the speed is correct. I am sure you can find it around somewhere.
Good luck with all that. I am interested in your progress.
to Malachi I forgot to mention the most important item. Check the recommended bed temp on the spool the filament came on. If it gives you a range, favor the high side.