@AeonJoey Touche! You’ve convinced me. Thanks for bringing this to everyone’s attention.
Thanks to you, I read it more carefully, and for me the biggest tell of all is when it says:
PETG HF must be dried before use and remain moisture-free during the printing process, especially for longer print times (over 6 hours).
That’s a much tighter requirement than I can remember ever before reading for PETG, regardless of who manufactured it. It sounds like a different material even.
What do you think of those little miniature plug-in rechargeable dehumidifiers. I have two inside a large Milwaukee pack out rolling case seems to do well for me, however I’m in a controlled environment with a mini split( on my kitchen table me and the kids like playing with it I had nowhere else for it to go three to one vote was that in the AMS get set up on the kitchen table lol) I will be moving the printer to the garage hopefully I don’t have any problems I bought a nice tent setup and from my previous life I have several dehumidifiers fans filters carbon air scrubs is ETC. eventually I will have a print room but I’m too kind and my mother-in-law needed a place to stay so she moved into my finished basement. I’ll probably just build a little 5x5 area in the space that’s already built my four and 12-year-old love playing with this thing. At that time I’ll probably upgrade from an A1 to something enclosed
depends what kind, if you’re talking about the ones that are desiccant holders that you can plug in to recharge the beads themselves, those are great - i have a couple of brands (they’re kind of big and flat rectangles about 5x7x2" though, not ‘mini’) if it’s an actual ‘dehumidifier’ that has a water tank, those are very different - I’d read reviews first before buying - the issue is that there’s a maximum amount of humidity they’ll be able to go down to, most can’t get below 30%RH with heat+air circulation alone.
Can you post a link? I’m very curious, I’ve started printing out spool cores and bought a multi-pack of those little round hygrometers, and using our kitchen Foodsaver to seal my own bags, I only do this for PETG and ABS rn, and it’s so far so good.
Maybe provide a link so that we’re on the same page?
Yes, I have a number of the e-333. Recharging is easy, in about 12 hours, and the $15 amazon price seems fair. I’d recommend it over the e-500, because you can buy two e-333 for less than the price of one e-500, and with those two you’ll get both more desiccant and more exposed surface area than with the e-500. Also, the e-500 plugs into just one electrical plug, but it’s so heavy that it levers its way loose and falls out, at least on the outlet I tried it on. That doesn’t happen with the e-333.
I’m quite interested in the newer eva-dry air dry system:
It can recharge in just 2 hours. I’m about to test it out, and I’ll have more to say about it soon. The pricing is less favorable than the e-333, but by 3D printing additional modules, I can maybe work around that limitation and even come out ahead if managing a larger inventory of silica gel desiccant.
What filament budget dryer would you recommend I didn’t realize they were so cheap
None of them. If I were starting over from scratch, I’d start by building this DIY:
and see how well it performed. Then, depending on the humidity of my local climate, I’d consider making a desiccant make-up-air upgrade similar to what @MZip is currently working on for his filament dryer or perhaps a like-minded dry-air upgrade variant that some of the other forum members have indicated they will be attempting when they get around to it. Meanwhile, I’d wager that the DIY filament dryer above would probably outperform any of the consumer-grade COTS filament dryers currently available for purchase.
I just received all the colors of the new PETG-HF. It prints like a dream. Smooth, matte finish, no warping, stringing or other typical issues of PETG. I got lucky an and am printing it right out of the box. Love it.
Photos of a wallet in three colors of HF and brown one with warping was using the old PETG.
A YouTuber conducted a thorough test and found that the PETG-HF version outperforms the basic one in every aspect.
Don’t know what that is but it looks like it printed nice and is eye catching whatever it is. 
I have tried both smooth PEI with Magigoo and textured, and so far the first layer sucks.
Have you changed anything in the basic settings? I’ve often read that it’s advisable to tweak the cooling for better results with PETG: e.g. increase the auxiliary fan to 70-90% and reduce the component fan to 20%. Also set the chamber fan to 100%. My black PETG HF had problems printing the “poop chute” (pictures). Printed with standard setting 0.20mm and flow 1.11 (K value 0.025). The nozzle was also completely blocked. It was dried for 6 hours at 65 degrees. I calibrated the flow with the Bambu slicer.
Thanks, I’ll try some fan tweaks. My black calibrated at 0.019, and colors at 0.016. With my 0.6 E3D nozzle I tried .24, .3, .36 and.42 first layer. The .42 was the least messy, but still imperfect. This PETG is definitely different from most PETG I’ve tried. Matterhackers Ryno is also very unique. I wonder how this compares with Filamentum CPE?
The stock PETG-HF profile has no cooling for the first 3 layers, so changing those fan settings won’t affect my first layer performance.
I’ve had better luck and better printing with the E sun high speed petg. They’re both quality products but for some reason the E sun prints smoother with a nice glossy finish and no stringing at all maybe I have to play with some settings for the Bambu. I recommend picking up a roll off Amazon and give it a try. I was pleasantly surprised I had terrible luck with overture. I ran out of high speed Bambu 3/4 through a large Milwaukee Packout drawer print from Jonah Pope designs. Look at the difference on the upper ¾ I don’t want to bash the new filament but I just seem to be having really good luck with the E sun HS
I did another test print with the smooth PEI plate well scrubbed and I used no glue. This was the best print so far. The adhesion was strong, but not enough to cause damage. I was still using a 0.42 first layer.
I bought the space pi because of its presets, but they aren’t worth it, any that can do 70° should be fine, but some exotics need 80°
Agreed with passion; the AMS absolutely does NOT dry filament. Whoever said that is trolling.
Alas, unfortunately, it is a replacement for PETG Basic. God help us because it’s also utterly HORRIBLE in most every way that matters. DO NOT BUY.
Fresh out of the vacuum sealed bag, it was absolutely horrific. Worse than TPU left out for months. More bubbles in the print than I’ve ever seen and well, frankly ZERO print “quality”.
After five hours at 55ºC in a Sulu dryer and when printing from the dryer, it was only marginally better, still with very many bubbles under the microscope and horrible surface quality as a result.
A full 15 hours at 65ºC later finally eliminated (almost – I’m not kidding!) all the bubbling BUT the overall print quality is still very, very poor compared to PLA and in fact still as bad or worse than even wet PETG Basic.
This product is utter rubbish. I’m astonished it ever made it our of the R&D lab.
My testing was on an X1C with 0.4nz. Ambient room humidity 24%.
