Yup sure did, I’ve had the extruder and hot end apart a few times, had a blocked extruder and clogged hot end when the issue first presented and it hasn’t been able to print reliably since.
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I see from later posts than this that you cleared a blockage and are printing OK but I saw something on this post that was wrong procedure, so I wanted to warn you and others following this. 
In this picture you can see you did the lines on the front of the build plate.
You were doing the OrcaSlicer Flow Test, and made an easy to miss mistake.
Those lines are from having checked First Layer Inspection . You cannot leave that checked when doing the OrcaSlicer Flow Test! (Please forgive the shout … 
)
If that is on the printer adjusts the Flow Rate. You don’t want that, you want it to let the Flow Rate be controlled by the Slicer so it can exceed the preset limits. If First Layer Inspection is on it fights the printer for control and it fails.
Just in case you didn’t figure that out and for others doing this. It’s a pretty subtle mistake, ask me how I know … 
Cheers!
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Hey this wasn’t the Orca flow test, the other one (in red was).
Just an update tried to do the same print of the 0 without AMS, but came back to it printing air. So I tried a few things and I am not sure it is actual blockage or the extruder not extruding. If I manually assist the extruder and feed filament will pressing the extruder down on the UI it seems to flow through the hot end ok. I have pulled apart the extruder and have found no obstructions or junk inside it, I have also cleaned the hotend, however I think I will try the spare that came with the printer and see how that goes.
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Aha! My bad. Working on my halo. Those pesky little red pointed things keep popping up and knocking it askew. … 
Well this sound like there’s a blockage there somewhere.
But -
If it’s coming out when assisted then the extruder must not be gripping it well.
Remind me, is this still the eSun PETG? And what temp are you running?
Yup, but I have tried a few other brands too with the same outcome.
On my Prusa I would print eSun PETG at ~247 so this was the original temp. Since then I reverted to the generic profile for temp, so these tests are all at 255. Is it possible that the extruder is getting too hot?
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Well… eSun suggests a max of 250 and some people are printing it below 190, so, yeah that might be too hot.
When you run that hot you can get very hard to clean deposits inside the printhead. Have you followed BL’s cold pull instructions for cleaning?
EDIT: Also - have you run the Temp Towers calibration in OrcaSlicer? It’s like 2 clicks - choose PETG and go.
EDIT 2: Going into my ‘Language Nazi’ 
mode -
Not likely the extruder is getting too hot. The printhead or nozzle might be. 
Words matter. /end Rant
All the settings will print with eSun petg so should work out for you.
Try the base line settings in all the photos posted and set the flow ratio to 1.05 / nozzle @ 260c / bed 75c / Max flow 11.5 and turn flow calibration off.
The prime tower you can tweak the size like 40 width and the volumes like 10 might work better for you with petg and move it closer to your seam location and no easy way to tweak the tower speed at this time but I don’t even use tower with petg.
Print a cube 30x30x3mm to test out keep us updated.
Orca base line speed settings:
Prime Tower moved closer to the seam location - sample.
To clarify, the reason I asked if the extruder was getting too hot was because it is possible the filament is getting too soft further up thus causing it to not catch and feed correctly? Sorry just throwing out ideas/theories Seen this before Extrusion stopped mid-print (Heat creep) | Prusa Knowledge Base
Ran a different temp tower before I realised orca had one built in and showed good results at 255, I am aware of the eSUN max temp hence all my original prints (scraper above) was settings pulled from my prusa.
Thanks @3DTech
I did use your settings as a base line for one of the prints sorry should have added this above also.
I was concerned that 260 may be a little too hot. Do you print with the door closed at this temp?
I am not really interested in multi colour prints using petg, the only reason I am trying to dial it in is because I have some translucent red I really want to use for a pinball topper
I am going to chuck in some PLA tomorrow and run a provided STL again and see what it looks like, I will then clean/progress to PETG tests again.
FWIW I have cleaning filament (used this a lot with the mk3 between filament types to be safe). Cold pulls seem less effective on the X1 probably best to remove the extruder and do it.
With the Bambu Labs .4 steel nozzle you will need about 5c more than a brass nozzle also as you start printing faster you will have to adjust the nozzle temp or speed settings depending on the filament type being used and look at the part is it flat or glossy looking I have push some petg brands up to 280c with no problems just so you know.
I print with the door closed and set my chamber fan to M106 P3 S127 in the filament start G-code.
I use cleaning filament also on the X1 depending on the filament being used like carbon fiber.
You want to also set your (recommended nozzle temperature) correctly this helps when switching filament types and not clogging up your nozzle keep them in close range like eSun pla+ 200 to 230 and eSun petg 240 to 260 you can adjust as needed.
I don’t know what bed plates you are using but thrutheframe start & end G-code works real good and you can tweak it as needed for your setup like z offsets and other G-code settings.
Change these settings in thrutheframe G-code for pla & petg switching.
;===== prepare print temperature and material ==============
Turn off ;M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
Turn on M109 S245 ;set nozzle to common flush temp
Bambu Lab Modified Start and End gcode
Keep us updated the Bambu Lab will print petg 
As I’ve said other places, I use PETG exclusively, and the Bambu has been stellar at printing it. Usually. I use Hatchbox filament, no issues with using the standard ‘Generic PETG’, except for Hatchbox yellow, which has been a huge pain to print. I’ve tried multiple beds. My current high success rate is using either the Bambu textured PEI plate or the WhamBam PEX plate. The PEX plate does still need glue stick, I did a tiny test print with Hatchbox at the reduced temps WhamBam suggests, no glue stick, damaged the surface. Repeat with glue stick, gorgeous mirror finish with no problems. As usual, all the filaments, even of the same type or even the same mfgr have varying characteristics. Hatchbox yellow is a perfect example. Black, white, blue, red, fine. Yellow, fail without lots of tweaking.
Aaaah, Got it! It’s hard to know what level to expect on here, no insult implied Always have to check the obvious … LOL
Cool. Did you also run the Flow, Pressure Advance, and VFA tests? I had one filament messing with me and ran those and it was day and night, poof, problem solved.
For sure, I just had this conversation in another thread. I am now a fan of running a full set of filament tests whenever I run a new filament even if it’s just a different color I of a brand I have dialed in.
@3DTech - Thanks for all that data. It’s priceless. Some of the PETG settings are scattered in another thread but it’s nice you put it all in one place for us! This one’s a lot shorter, I know you know which it is.
I’m Bookmarking this thread so I can send people to your settings when I run into a PETG post … 
I have grey & black esun petg. In the temperature test at 250 the black had strong layer adhesion & it looked good & was glossy. The grey was matte & the temp tower broke apart easily up to 260.
I reran the tower with grey from 265-290 & it was strongest & looked good at 290. Im in the middle of a 6 hour print right now with grey at 290 & it looks good to me, but Im not too experienced with 3d printing yet.
Not sure why there is such a big temperature difference between 2 colours of the same material. Both profiles share same settings except for temp. Im also using the alibaba hotend with replaceable .4 nozzle.
Have you tried the temperature tower at a higher temp than esun recommendation?
This has to do with Polymer Chemistry .
Every Brand of filament is a carefully created blend of plastics and additives that is a proprietary secret. Things to improve flow, others to improve strength, you get it. Switch Brands and you get different settings needed.
There are interactions - something that makes it stronger may make it stringy or need a lower temp. Same with the color additives. Personally, I’ve noticed Reds, Yellows, and Blacks generally run differently than the others in their group.
Get it?
Yep temps for petg filaments and colors can be different even changing your cooling fan settings can effect it and the volumetric speed being used.
Sample:
Max volumetric speed of 10 with a 0.42 line width you will get 132 max speed.
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Thanks for all the tremendous support/advice all. So first things first;
- I will swap out the hot end for the spare.
- Run a PLA inbuilt test with the supplied PLA from Bambu (again) on the engineering plate.
- Then I will switch to the PETG and textured plate and run a demo tower and do the flow tests etc trial to dial it in.
- Then try out a test cube.
Ok, new hotend in place, PLA test complete I printed the scraper. Attached
Looks good.
I have now taken @3DTech’s settings and applied them. Next step print temp tower on engineering plate so it can try and automagic the flow. Then I can dial in temp and disable extrusion magic.
Wish me luck!
Temp tower done, 230-260 which was the default in Orca so I just rolled with it.
The hotter the print the better the layers (it seems) the colder the print the better the bridging.
This tower looks dreadful though. 
Is this eSun PETG ?
If so reboot the printer and try these settings
Set your flow to 1.05
PETG tower 280 to 255
Check your fan settings
Did you do all the base lines settings in orca slicer ?
Have you dry this filament ?
You can bump up the min fan speed if you want the top layer to be more glossy
Keep us updated is this the only roll of petg you have ?
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I have set fan to 100% on bridge, and sped it up to 50mm/s
I am trying 270-260 now, I am too much of a wimp to go to 280 
This filament spent 6 hours drying, I copy pasta all your settings above.
Flow rate is currently set to 0.98, also allowing the X1C to do all its calibration things on the eng plate. Which I am not really a fan of because when it comes to do the first layer inspection if you have any oozing it causes grief. 
I have a few Prusa PETG and other eSUN PETG which I’ve just dried so can test those too.