You’ll like it. The Filament Profiles are easily edited with the settings from Calibration.
Not true! There are a lot of other Filament Profiles if you scroll down further, they’re labeled “Generic” and a couple “Polylite” which is from Polymaker, and a favorite brand of mine.
Most are pretty accurate, but nowhere near as accurate as making your own by calibration, since it’s tuned to that Brand, that Color, and your machine (all machines are slightly different no matter how carefully built.)
BTW- two tips for running the cals - Be sure you uncheck Flow Calibration when you send the print! You don’t want the printer trying to adjust it when printing the tests!! It gives false results. Very easy to miss.
Second - Be sure to save the settings in a new Profile. I like to include the nozzle size for reference as a .8 does not flow like a .4!
OPEN IT:
ENTER YOUR NEW SETTINS THEN SAVE IT:
Like my skilled drawing technique? 
I have skills, that just ain’t one.
Don’t bother, we know. Look at this thread but don’t panic!!
(EDIT: You found it.)
BL is aware and if you open a Ticket with support they will send you a new bed. But. It may also be warped. Or almost perfect. It’s a craps shoot.
That thread has lots of info on solutions, some are pretty cheap / easy.
Mine has .93mm gap. I’ve used two different thicknesses of aluminum tape, thicker in the middle then tapered off towards the edges. Took under an hour being very meticulous. I now have a virtually flat plate and the excellent BL Auto Bed Level takes care of the rest.
You can also use glass, there’s many discussions in the thread but I know from having done that on several previous printers (for one - my Creality CR-10S bed was a disaster and no amount of pleading would get them to replace it).
I used Mirror Tile bought at Loews in the US - $9 for six tiles! If you think about it, mirrors must be very flat or you see the slightest distortion plainly. Cheap and fast. I may do that too. Since I already have a mostly flat bed I can use a couple dots of high temp silicon (RTV) adhesive on the alum tape and it will be completely reversible.
This “glass bed” fix has been used by thousands, for years it’s been the go-to solution on many printers. Hell, they even sell precut glass sizes on AliExpress it’s so common!
It happens occasionally, it’s the Forum. If you’re using Windows, just place the blinking cursor where you want it and drag the picture from a File Manager window and drop it. Easy.
Opinion and results vary. There’s a number (a couple are loooonnng) threads on PETG if you search. Here’s a jump to what many find is the best settings advice (after, of course the calibrations):
Now, honestly you can get great results with PETG on the BL printers, but there are other filaments that are a whole hell of a lot less trouble now. PETG is a great plastic. When it works, and a nightmare a lot of other times. I’ve slid away from it for most things.
Filament science has made dramatic jumps in the last few years as the 3D printing world has exploded. The $$ for R&D is now available because of huge sales and lots of competition.
PLA+ formulas from many vendors and now machines like the X1C and P1P are readily available with 300°C available some previously “exotic” materials like PC and PA (Nylon blends) other high temp plastics are available with better print and performance than PETG offers.
Sorry I went off on a tangent … 
I think I start a thread on this, LOL!
I love you found the Wiki! There’s a mixture of useless and gems in there. Fortunately it tilts towards gems!
Keep us up on your journey!
Cheers!