When following Bambu’s wiki and manual it seems it’s always required to use glue for PETG with the two different sheet types currently offered for the H2D (smooth and textured PEI sheets) to prevent damage because of too strong adhesion.
Since I mainly print PETG I bought for my Prusa a “satin powder-coated sheet” where the PETG sticks really strong when printing (when the sheet is hot) and just falls off when it’s cold. Without glue. Perfect.
Is there something similar for the Bambu H2D? I really don’t want to use glue every time if I don’t have to…
Here you go. Everything sticks to it, PETG prints great.
Yes, textured PEI is not optimal for PETG. It can print, but I for sure understand you, since I also run satin plate with Prusa Core One. Just be prepped that a ton of people are going to say “BuT I rUn TeXtUrEd Just FinE”
No, it should. Every single time I hear the standard set of responses from people - clean plate bluh bluh. While in reality people who say that either barely print PETG or print files with large contact area that mitigates the reduced bed adhesion from the material.
That plate was freshly cleaned with dawn, and I do know a lot about the state of plate cleanliness …
Bambu is not unique here, PETG does not have the greates adhesion to textured plates, unless you crank your temps to eleven. In 80% of the cases it will print “fine”, but repeatebility do suck, especially with shitty H2D bed heater.
Smooth PEI? Yeah it sticks well, sometimes too well that risks to lift off the sticker PEI off the spring steel.
Satin plate eliminates all of those issues. It just completely removes it out of the equation.
I also found that PETG sticks a lot better to smooth PEI ( coated, not sticker) than to textured plates.
I mostly use knockoff engineering plates from AliExpress now for PETG.
Adhesion is much better than textured PEI, a little bit less than smooth PEI. It also has a very fine structure more like sand blasted. I really don’t like the coarse structure of the textured plates.
I would be curious about the new Bambu Engineering Plate. No idea if it is different than the knock off plates. With textured plates, I have the feeling that the bambu plate holds up much longer than the knock offs. Maybe it’s worth trying.
Thanks a lot!
On a clean Prusa Satin powder-coated sheet I even printed items where just the walls (Prusa calls them “Perimeter”) touch the build plate (and nothing else) and it still worked and it simply fell off when cold. And also the bottom surface looks beautiful on the satin sheet.
And yes, if some here might consider me spoiled - I am
I’ll order the one from your link and update this thread from my experiences here once it’s delivered. Maybe I’ll print something really prone to warping and measure the height once it falls of.
Really surprised though that Bambu offers printers on the upper price range of the prosumer market and doesn’t offer these sheets.
But maybe there’s no demand because people haven’t used these sheets before?
Best answer so far: do whatever it takes to make it stick, no matter what anyone else says!
I’m a heavy glue user myself — pretty much for everything — though I mostly print on Darkmoon CFX or WhamBam CFX plates.
So yes, glue on most prints here, except for TPU which always sticks perfectly on its own.
They say TPU, PA/PPA/PAHT, PET-CF, and PPS don’t need glue… but I’m not gambling with my models. A bit of glue is cheap insurance.
Right now there are three camps: the glue believers, the no-glue purists, and the mysterious third group who claim it always works for them — but somehow, rarely for anyone else.
When I wrote “I really don’t want to use glue every time if I don’t have to…” is not that I care about the price of the glue or the effort to add glue.
It’s just my bad habit that I like to keep my sheets clean so I wash off the glue every time after I used glue. Also remainders of glue will be on the printed parts that I have to wash off.
The satin sheet I basically clean once a month or so with dish soap and water and since I never touch the surface (I don’t even have to lift it since PETG parts fall off without touching when cold) it’s simply that easy to use so I want to continue doing so.
I don’t dislike glue per se. I just don’t like the cleaning part afterwards when there are sheets where it’s simply not necessary.
What type of glue are you using?
My adhesive usually stays on the plate if I let everything cool down completely before removing the print.
When I use Magigoo Flex with TPU, however, it always transfers to the part — whether I wait for it to cool or not.
I’m not trying to start another “glue vs. no-glue” debate here; both sides have valid reasons. In my case, glue is simply necessary for most prints since I rarely work with PLA or PETG. I mainly print TPU, PEBA, ASA, and PAHT-CF, where proper adhesion makes all the difference.
Currently only “Bambu Lab Glue Stick for Build Plate” and “Kores Glue Stick” (as recommended by Prusa). The latter one is not meant for 3D prints but it behaves exactly the same as the one from Bambu.
I use these only on Prusa’s smooth PEI sheet though because otherwise the prints stick far too strong to it and there is a risk damaging the sheet (even with glue, some materials like Polymaker’s ESD-PETG (CF PETG printed with high temperature) are nearly impossible to remove.
For the satin sheet I never use glue.
I ordered Bambu’s liquid glue for testing. Never used it before.
I have the frostbite and glacier plates, the frostbite stick MUCH better. I use the glacier primarily for TPU at this point.
I just picked up some grey FYSECT build plates for my H2D and A1 and I love the matt finish. Bambu and Sunlu petg stuck without issue. I did have FlashForge silk like petg not adhere, i bumped the bed temp to 70 and that resolved the issue. I was using 60c for the other prints on this plate
Thank you!
May I ask which temperatures (sheet and nozzle) you are using when printing PETG w/o glue on Frostbite and on Glacier pates, when Frostbite sticks well and Glacier not so well?
According to their description Glacier needs higher bed temperatures than Frostbite (which I’m sure you saw, so really asking only to get a broader understanding)
Seems like they are not easy to get here in Germany. Got in touch with the supplier. They only get shipped out from the US. That means high shipping cost, import tariffs plus vat.
I guess I will be looking into BIQU CryoGrip Frostbite/Glacier plates that @jsparrow and @Dulphy suggested.
That thing is like a welding glue. I use i with CF plates to print ABS/ASA and it pretty much glues so hard that I spend roughly 10 minutes cleaning up the plastic residue (god forbid you use brim or supports)
This object is sitting only on two walls on the build plate. 65 degrees angle, 100 mm long.
I printed it with PETG, satin sheet as it was (cleaned three to four weeks ago), no glue, no brim or anything else to promote adhesion.
I don’t know how to upload a time-lapse video here but I will show some screenshots of the movie.
Printing finished, object looks terrible because I usually print PETG without any fans and I forgot to turn them on and 0.8 seconds layer time might be slightly too short without fan :
(yes, I know, the print has some slight, hardly visible defects)
So that’s why I was asking for this kind of sheets. Strong adhesion, no preparation, low maintenance and effortless (automatic) removal.
In case some of the readers wondered…
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