PETG warping on a (new) P1S

I recently bought myself a P1S Combo.

I first just printed and tested with the supplied BL Basic PLA, the filament is automatically recognized in the AMS, selecting the Basic PLA settings automatically. Which delivers great prints out of the box without a lot of tweaking.

The adhesion of the textured PEI build plate was phenomenal and all (smaller) prints came out just great and perfect.
Only had a bit of heat issues going on, but some filament sheets on the Bambu Wiki show to print with open lid/door whit filaments like PLA or PETG. So now I’ve installed some lid raisers so the heat buildup might be a bit minimalized.

After finishing my BL spools, I switched to PETG from Jayo. Since I want to print some upgrades which I would like to be a bit more sturdy then PLA

  • I’ve selected the “Generic PETG” profile for this.

And I’ve changed only the nozzle and bed temperature to it’s recommended parameters:

  • nozzle: 230-260
  • print temperature gave me the best results on 250 degrees on a printed temp tower. So I’m printing at 250 now.
  • Bed temperature is set to 80 degrees.

The first (smaller) prints came out great with this new PETG filament. They even stuck better to the textured build plate than with the BL PLA filamant. And I needed to remove the sheet often to pop the prints off. Where just cooling down already was sufficient with the BL PLA filament.

So I really started to have loads of confident with it’s adhesion.

I believed settings were good, adhesion was perfect and so I wanted to start printing the bigger printer parts.
Last night I started my first bigger print, a Panda Touch mount for my P1S. It ran overnight because it would need 4 hours of printing time.
I used the BL included support material, which seems to work pretty well with this PETG too on smaller prints.

But this morning the print seemed to be completely ruined because of (decent) warping. The warping is verry obviously, it’s ugly and the parts don’t fit because of this.

So I’m actually a bit confused what to do now.

  • Should I completely close the “chamber” (case) again? While the lid is now open because of previous heat/bridging problems with PLA.
  • Or should I increase bed temperature even more? The filament parameters mention a bed temperature between 75 an 85, so I thought going in between would be a safe start.
  • Or are there any other solutions to (decent/extreme) warping with PETG?

Edit:
Maybe the timelaps gives some more insights.
It seems it just snap/warps off around layer 16. Although it seems it’s shifting up before already a bit. So build up tension seems to be a bit high too I guess.
video 2024 07 03 05 39 16 (youtube.com)

Although i use an A1 i find a need to add a brim ( type ) to help prevent warping not sure how useful it would be for the p1 series

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I just started having warping issues last night to on my newly P1S.
I first used the Bambu Lab Basic PLA which was delivered with my printer, on it’s standard presets. This worked great for me.

And it especially had great adhesion with the textured PEI buildplate. I was actually verry impressed first.
Then I started using PETG from Jayo. Which even stuck much better on the buildplate and I needed to get of the buildblate and knick it a bit to be able to get the prints off.

So I got more confident going to print greater projects. Last night I left a Panda Touch mount print overnight. And it had terrible warping this morning when I saw it… Just lost a bunch of filament, power consumption and time here…

Welcome to the forum and to 3d printing.

How are you cleaning your build plate? The number one issue with adhesion is properly clearing the plate with dish soap and hot water making sure not to touch the build plate with your fingers.

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Thanks for your insights.

With my previous (open) printers I really needed to use brims too yes. The P1S is actually my first completely closed printer now. And previous prints just came out clear and sharp, without needing brims.

But I’m actually thinking going to give it a try indeed :slight_smile:


Ive rearranged the objects to hi lite the difference to without and with ( 2 3 )

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Thanks Jon,

I’m using dishwasher detergent as recommended in the Bambu Wiki.
At least not having difficulties with adhesion on the smaller prints with PETG.

Well actually need them to cool decently and take off the bed before being able to snap them off. So because of this I was even more surprised about the serious warping on the bigger print.

from the model seen in the time-lapse it is definitely recommended to use a brim since the contact area to the build plate of that part is rather small.

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Like some have mentioned, a brim won’t hurt. I see some other artifacts lower and it makes me think you should also dry that a bit.
Be aware that PETG when it does stick to the gold plate, it sticks very well. Very well. I stopped using it but if you’d like to be a little careful put a little glue down. This well aid a little in adhesion but it will help a lot in removing the print.

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Hey, thanks for sharing your insights on managing warping issues with PETG prints! You’ve been diving deep into troubleshooting and experimenting with different approaches. Finding that balance between temperature control and adhesion is critical, especially when dealing with larger prints. Keep up the excellent work, and don’t hesitate to share any updates or new findings.

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Thanks for your message.

I think I’m getting better results now.
Before bigger prints I clean the textured PEI sheet a bit, and crank up the bed temp with 5 degrees.
And since then I don’t have anny warping again annymore. Brim is standard set to automatic, so only using a brim when BL-studio thinks it needs it.

Although I prefer to print without a brim, because I sometimes have such good adhesion now, that brims or even the first line before starting the actual print (I believe it’s to get the nozzle pressure right before the print on the P1S) are sometimes really hard to remove.

Just printed a verry big print, half an AMS riser, and everything stayed on the bed perfectly! I really need to cool of the plate first before being able to release the parts.

I think this did the trick for me. On bigger prints I also turn up bed temp 5 degrees, but prints stick verry wel now on the textured PEI plate. Sometimes even to well.

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A tip, throw the build plate with the part in the freezer for a minute prior attempting removal of the part. The difference in thermal contraction is often enough for the printed part to just pop off on its own or with very little effort by flexing the plate after taken out of the freezer.

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Ah thanks! This sounds as a great tip!
Sometimes a print is finished and I forgot about it. And then after a while, when the plate is cooling of decently, you just hear the print getting loose from the plate.

I can imagine what happens when this temperature difference is verry abrupt and strong yes.

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