I was getting that as well for a while, and now out of the blue nothing sticks…I don’t get it.
Carefully washed and dried the cool plate, used glue stick, even bumped the bed temp from 30c up to 50c. Still had curling on the corners to the point of making the part unusable. This is with Bambu grey pla and a .6 nozzle.
On a related note the first layer inspection and spaghettis detection did absolutely nothing for me. The only thing that stopped the print I walked away from was the monster blob eventually knocked the front cover off the extruder.
Just got my WhamBam plate. Working well so far. Night and day difference.
I have no idea what happened with my cool plate, but it went from working well to just nothing working at all. I think that’s a real issue Bambu needs to deal with. Something about that cool plate appears to be hit or miss.
I ended up buying PEI plate - and prints do not fail anymore.
Cool plate is ■■■■, but give a cleaner surface. We never had a single large print come out proper on the cool plate but the PEI is great!
I have a “new” cool plate that seems much less sticky than the one my unit shipped with. Lately all my PLA prints have had issues sticking (regardless of the plate actually) despite cleaning. My solution has been to drop the aux fan from 70% to 20% and so far I haven’t had any prints come loose or change in print quality.
I edited the *.json system profiles in C:\Users\Nick\AppData\Roaming\BambuStudio\system\BBL\filament.
Change “additional_cooling_fan_speed” to 20 or whatever you want to try.
I print with a .6 and got a recent BL PLA Basic Red and immediately had adhesion issues.
I have had almost zero issues with many brands and types, this was consistent. I’m no noob, I’ve done this for years. No cleaning, etc helped on the cool plate.
PEI textured was the same. I ran the heat up to 45 - 50°C and it was better.
I then checked my manual bed level, which I did last week. It was gapped.
??HUH??
Re-did manual bed level and ran Calibration routine and all was good, but it still needed 45 - 50°.
Not sure why it shifted … I know I didn’t do it.
I’m with you on the reformulation or supplier change.
I also had issues with parts sticking and my solution was after market PEI sheet, 55C plate temps, and Vision Miner adhesive. I’ve had a very high success rate with these 3 changes ,but I have learned there is no getting away from using rafts on parts that have little surface area contacting the plate. On my other printers I do squish 1st layers more to help with adhesion, but the Bambu’s first layers are so perfect that I’d rather use a good adhesive to help stick it on than to reduce the quality of the initial layer. Vision Miner glue is the best and I can’t recommend it enough.
The product page for the textured pei plate says 45-60 for PLA. When selected in the slicer, it uses 55. If you make the mistake of printing a built-in model on the textured plate and don’t manually bump up the temp from the pre-sliced 35c, it will detach pretty quick.
Sorry, misworded sentence… I meant to say I ran it up to 45-50° for the cool plate and it stuck. When I did the PEI plate I used the default value of 55°C for BL PLA Basic and it didn’t stick there either.
+10 to you for reading comprehension -10 to me for inability to write a coherent sentence!
Yeah, this is a point many don’t get when messing adhesion issues, it’s a subtle one.
Vision Miner - I hadn’t run into this one. I’ve tried a couple “Special OMG this stuff is great if expensive” solutions over the years and had no better results then cheap Elmer’s Purple glue stick. I have the extra large diameter ones and it makes it much easier to apply.
But I’m always open to new things, this 3D world is really changing rapidly now. Bambu Labs could have sold these printers 5 years ago for triple and they’d beat down the doors to get 'em.
Rafts - I try not to use the $mgTS5%^& things. Sometimes no choice, but with the excellent ABL systems now I think I’ve used 2 in the last 6 months. If it first layer fails it’s usually my fault.
But your point of perfect layers will enter my thought process, great point!
My previous printer from 2016 was $4k and was very technologically advanced at the time, with a bunch of features no other printers had back then. It was mostly purchased by industrial manufacturers and universities. It’s a slow piece of garbage compared to the X1C. Very reliable and quality prints, but ridiculously slow in comparison. It’s got a much more closed ecosystem and way higher price points for replacement parts and proprietary filament. It’s still stupid expensive today for what it is at $2700.
A popular 3D printing YouTuber just reviewed it a couple days ago to see if it was still relevant in 2023. He said the print quality is great, but that it’s basically only good for K-12 students to learn on.
How are you applying the Vision Miner? How often are you cleaning/reapplying? I have an unopened bottle but I haven’t used it yet because I’m still on the $5 bottle of Bambu Lab liquid glue (back when it was on sale and cheap). Also having good results with washable purple Elmers glue stick, which works on a couple prints where the liquid glue failed me.
I ordered the 50ml bottle so it came with a very cheap bristle brush to apply and that is what I have been using until I can remember to purchase a small foam brush whenever I am at the hardware store. The liquid carrier for VM is alcohol based so it evaporates very quickly and especially if the plate is warm. The 10"x10" plate is too large for me to coat quick enough before it evaporates so I only coat the area I need. The VM instruction videos shows drawing an “x” and a circle on the build plate ,but depending on the size of the part, I just put on a few drops and quickly brush the thin liquid around to coat the area.
How often are you cleaning/reapplying?
For toys that I print for myself or the kids (kids are really into Pokémon right now) I do not clean the plate or recoat with more VM and I am mostly using PLA. For bigger parts that take 5+ more hours, I do clean and reapply VM just to have peace of mind that the part will stick and I’ll come back with a good finished part. When printing PETG I use the Engineering Plate so I will clean the PEI/Cool side just as a precaution incase the glue would make a sticky mess on the heated bed. PETG I clean and reapply every time and its mainly so I have an interference layer so it doesn’t stick too hard because that has been my experience with PETG on my build surfaces. The VM cleans very easily using soap and warm water
I have used purple Elmers glue stick and while it does work, I think the VM has better adhesion and the post clean up on the bottom of parts is easier. Looking at the hours on my Bambu as reference, I have only been using the VM product for 150+ hrs of printing and I am still learning. I find the VM to be relatively cheap consumable that will further increase my print success
For me VM only helped me further increase print success, but learning all the capabilities and limitations of any of my printers (and filament materials) has been the key for me to have a good experience. For example, I personally think the default PLA profile of 35C bed temp for PLA is too cold and increasing to 55C-65C has helped with adhesion. I never had an enclosed printer before or aux fan so I also noticed surface of parts on the aux fan side will tend to warp and lift and to resolve this I started using better adhesives like VM and now don’t have this issue. Although I had a little bit of a rough start with Bambu (support had to send replacement parts at the beginning) I can say that the X1C is really a game changer and love it.
Up the temp for the plate 50+ you can clean the glue stick with warm water and a plastic brush no need for soap. to remove any grease from finger prints iso alcohol on a disposable towel (a few drops) just enough to wipe it clean then reapply glue. works very well on the decal plate with PLA as long as the print has surface to stick to it (A ten inch tall character with only two feet touching the plate is going to fail) The footprint no pun intended needs to be large enough for a stable item being printed. Supports or Rafts should be considered. very large thin items suffer from surface tension as the material cools causing warpage which can lift edges ABS suffers from this en mass even at the individual layer levels. Surface tension can peel Plywood off a wall so its not something even a good glue surface will always avoid depending on the print.
For PLA I have been using a week solution of PVA on the Cool plate with no problems, I have used this on all my previous printers, been 3D printing over 10 years now.
Also works for PLA-LW and the Bambu PLA-CF
And used this on TPU
And for ABS I use a week solution of ABS slurry again been doing this over 10 years.
My prints are sticking too much, or are they going down too much in the first layers?
I clean the plates and use 3DLAC all over, but getting the residue off is leaving a copy of what I have printed
Any advice would be great thanks
