I’m done. Please just delete this post.
I’m going sell my printers.
That black sure is shiny. Is it relatively new Bambu Basic Black?
I didn’t see what you wrote but the reason I asked is there’s been some bad black Bambu Basic that causes all sorts of issues when printing with it. White too. You can spot it because it’s really shiny on the spool and high gloss. The good stuff in basic black and white has a semigloss finish on the spool.
That surely isn’t Bambu PLA- the pic of it flexing would snap it? Are these prints TPU?
Try two things:
Set Arachne for the slicing instead of the classic wall generator.
Set to print by object, rather than print by layer.
Yes, it means less objects on the plate but it also means layer times won’t make a mess out of your prints.
Works best if you can separate the text from the base to get individual objects.
This way you can print all the base parts as individual parts first, then the text and avoid the ton of flushes that might happen otherwise.
Good point. Some details on filament, printer, settings, etc would have been nice instead of a list of what they are sure isn’t the problem. Maybe you or others can help them…
I thought… They’ll figure it out by looking at the pictures ^^
@binfordw noticed. Its Overture TPU 
I was trying to help even though you made it a puzzle. I’m not experienced with TPU but others have posted similar things with the shiny black and white Bambu PLA.
When asking for help, you can avoid wasting other people’s time if you include what is relevant and leave out what isn’t. For example you exclude Studio and Orca because they are different slicers - but they really aren’t. You didn’t say what printer or include it in a photo where we could guess from that. Some printers are enclosed and some aren’t and that could also be a contributing factor.
Had Arachne test pending (just to see if it made any difference and could fix the last remaining issue on one letter) but due to this issue I didn’t proceed. Anyhow Arachne is just for Inner/Outer wall lines when printing small stuff (like letters) It will not have any effect on the top layer of that base.
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Print by object not only means less objects, but more manual filament changes (can’t use AMS as its TPU)
-
If I was to import base and text separately (which I had always done before) not only would it create a not desired other problem which took me weeks to figure out, but it would also mean multiple manual filament changes instead of one.
Except if I was to group all base and all top parts, creating basically 2 parts (bottom and top) making it again just one filament change - but still with that “not mentioned” problem remaining.
There is so much sh*t which cost me so much time to figure out - I can’t just be an open book here, sorry…
Verdict: It seems to come down to me having to make more tests, and waste even more time just because this “sorry” stupid machine doesn’t do what its supposed to…
Never had any of these problems with my Ender 3 Pro and Cura. It all worked.
More complicated to execute, and more time working on the machine, but the results where spot on.
I’m so pi**ed… I don’t have words for my current situation.
Sorry for my language but you guys don’t know through how many errors and stuff not working I’ve been through in the last months. I`m pretty much done with this company. For real.
Ok, good luck with the selling.
I get your frustration, really do…
Struggling to set custom filaments properly on the P1 is a true pain, with or without AMS.
And with no real consistency between single and multi-part prints…
I had a few replies already where I tried to explain the problem(s) we can’t fix and that Bambu, so far, did not address properly:
Whenever we print we are subjected to layer times, extrusion volumes and heat.
Sadly Bambu only ever goes for speed when it comes to print profiles and settings.
After that comes quality, then so really nothing.
What we really need is a far better control over the temperatures of the melting chamber and the time the filament spends in there.
Call it constant volumetric flow printing or whatever you like - it becomes essential at our speeds and needs.
TPU is a pain in it’s own rights.
I only use it if I have to.
Apart from the hygroscopic nature and flexibility there is also the issue of TPU not really liking pressure changes.
This becomes a real issues with multiple parts on the plate.
There is no real solution here until Bambu gets serious, only more or less working workarounds.
Speed matters with TPU, slow for the printing, fast for the movements while not printing.
It does help to do some retraction test prints in order to find the speed and length that provide the best outcome.
No excess filament when starting, no lack of filament either.
Consistency is vital but we can’t get it.
Apart from a slow speed, lowering the acceleration values can also be beneficial as it gives the filament a bit more time to adjust in the melting chamber.
You can often see a big difference on the start- and end point of infill lines.
Last but not least: Check the layer time and speed/flow rate for a single piece compared to a multi part plate.
If the single prints much slower to facilitate layer cooling then you might have to reduce your overall print speed for multi parts accordingly.
This is nuts, just two hours ago the post was written, seemingly replete with pictures.
Now (two hours later), all gone and one very annoyed author.
How does one person get so annoyed that the toys are thrown out of the pram so quickly?
Just one hour ago, the filament maker and type were mentioned.
I am minded to give as much of a s$1t as the author does.
But, just in case something helps someone else, I will have a punt at a possible cause of a problem with TPU without having ANY idea what the original problem was.
Set TPU to the correct filament type and make sure the nozzle is NOT hardened steal and just Stainless steel.
- Normal Overture TPU = Generic TPU
- High speed Overture TPU = Bambu TPU 95A HF
You said “make sure it’s NOT hardened”- bambu only seems to offer the .02 in SS/ not hardened?
Tell me where that is written anywhere after the toys were thrown out of the pram.
For TPU AFAIK you should not use any other nozzle than 0.4.
Tried different nozzle diameters and strategies but it never worked out. So, after reading it later in the process, I can confirm this assumption.
I was referring to the below.
Bambu doesn’t sell a SS nozzle other than 2 right?
I just check again, there is no reference anywhere in here about a 0.2 nozzle as I said here after you last told me it was.
I searched for “sell” on the entire page, it is mentioned three times before this reply where one was in your reply. The other two…
Number 1 of 2
Number 2 of 2
I will repeat myself as it appears required.
Tell me where that is written anywhere (where it mentions an 0.2mm nozzle) after the toys were thrown out of the pram.
BL doesn’t recommend the .2 nozzle for TPU, nylon or any of the filled filaments. The sparkle and glow are also considered filled filaments as they are abrasive. And yes, the only .2mm nozzle sold by BL is stainless steel. The others are hardened.
I really thank you for your kind words, trying to help, comprehend and acknoledging the existance of problems that sometimes can’t be solved.
The thing is… I was about to start a business.
I quit my job months ago after passing through a very rough time which I’m still trying to get through.
Since then I’ve spend countless hours designing, test-printing and expanding my workspace (which was a very challenging task due to lack of space).
I started to see light at the end of that tunnel, did everything I could, not wasted a minute on anything else. Pure dedication one would say. I coped with many problems and mastered all of them (Printing since 2017)
I tested many different filaments to find the ones that suited my needs, build many boxes to store the materials as good as even possible. Bought specific funiture and the list goes on and on…
It was not a print-farm «yet» but a good start (and actually wanted to order more printers…) which I will not.
The designs and print profiles are as perfect as they can be, both PETG and TPU which I’m mainly using print like PLA under my settings.
If I was to blame due to lack of knowledge or skill I would invest the time necessary (like I did all these years) to improve and get it working, but the main problems have never been on my end - It has always been the machines doing some strange, something they should not do …and I just can’t cope with this anymore.
I have spend so much energy and time on this… like 10-14 every day! for months… yes… so much time, and no, I’m not putting numbers here to impress or seek for assistance. That’s why I quit.
I’m done.
My mood is crushed.
My motivation is non existing at this point.
I just can’t nor want to deal with this anymore.
…and by “THIS” I mean the whatever is preventing me from reaching any of my goals - whatever I tried in life to this point. No matter how hard I work, no matter how many hours I invest - Life seems to have different plans…
My frustration is not just about 3D printing. Its about a life full of obstacles that has eventually reached a turning-point. For good or bad… I don’t know yet.
For me to quit my journey here, at least for now, it not easy. But I need to do something on which I can move forward - for once. Thank you for all the support.
Have a great day!
Ok, not gonna argue with you over something you wrote, I don’t think you understand. it’s not a big deal.