For 2 heater, the toolhead board has 1 component getting hotter than usual
No issues with heatbreak
for the 4 heater I wrote that I am designing external circuit, I will not rely on the Bambu, this is is not safe
The heatbreak will still play its role perfectly because we are not heating above 300C, we don’t go hotter, we just go faster at heating, no the same
Do you happen to know of an stl online for the forms to make the silicone socks?
No sorry, the one I got in spare from Bamublab fit perfectly, just a bit of the nozzle is outside, I will probably design & publish a mold soon
@Nairod : I am interrested in adding a second ceramic heater, could you give more information about the component that get hotter, wich one (photo) and how much it get hotter ? Basically I would like to be sure that it is safe for the mother board ?
Sure let’s talk about this on Discord if you’re OK, add me : Nairod #1258
I’ll send you thermal pics in a few hours
Thanks, that will be the opportunity to dicover Discord for me ^^
Bondtech licensed the patent to the cht, they didnt invent the idea
It is pattented by 3DSolex, there is a CNC Kitchen video & blog post that explain everything about CHT nozzle from design to why it works so well, history etc…
@radialincorporated: Yes we all know this is a great idea of yours
Any interest in a Bambu/Revo quick change? I’ve got one in machining phase now.
I am also interested in doing such a modification, I’m also curious to know if BBL current limits these components but seeing as how you were able to heat up the hotend faster its probably not the case? Only thing that concerns me is the doubling in current from 2 amps to about 4 amps and how that could affect components of the printer if there is not a current limit in place.
Yes, the cooling sucks. Needed an aux fan on both sides to cover for the ■■■■ fan on the head.
Not precisely “Bondtech” but uses Revo CHT that uses Bondtech IP.
So far testing has yielded great results with both the 24v 40w and 24v 60w Revo Heatercores with Revo nozzles across their range. Just have to mod connectors on the heater core to match the X1C connectors, P1P requires more work right now I just have spliced cabling because of the PCB connector they chose.
Lemme know if you have questions!~
Levelbedded_XYZ
How did you attach the second heater? Did you use the original clip?
I would like to see one for the a1 mini, I feel like that would help because the prints look matte instead of glossy when I print which make me think it’s printing alittle too fast and not heating the plastic up enough.
