Warping is caused by the filament cooling at different rates. So as the print grows, the lower layers will stay consistent at bed temp, but the middle layers will start to cool faster. The different speed of cooling causes different rates of contraction, with the middle pulling up on the bottom. The goal is to have the whole print cool at the same time, but this isn’t possible. The next best thing is to keep the chamber at the Tg (Glass transition temp, the temp where the plastics changes at a polymer level), again not really doable without a chamber heater. But also, this is a weird temp for ASA and ABS, largely because of their make up. But think of 100C as that number. Unfortunately the X1C can’t make that chamber temp.
So the goal, considering the machine’s limits, is to finds ways to stay as close to that 100C as possible and mitigate other factors.
- Turning off as much cooling as you can, overhang/bridging cooling is needed but that’s it.
- Preheating the bed (actually chamber) as mentioned above will help with the goal of staying as close to the Tg as you can.
- Another trick is, high infill warps more. So thin out the infill in the areas that warp to mitigate it. This is possible with the slicer’s modifier shapes. They allow you to target areas for low and high infill.
- Increase brim width
There are more tips and tricks like targeted area infill types, but I don’t want to overwhelm you (any more) with more info than may be needed. I fully believe you can find a setup that gets you sorted out with just those items above (plus the great tips others have, and will give).