Im a noob, but would like to print a stl file of a bust I have, the supports are across the bottom of the file elevating from the ground. Personally I just do not think there needed. Is there a way? I saw something about the support blocker?? Tryed to use it but its beyond me so if anyone could please explain it in dumb dumb mode id really appreciate it
Thank you all!!
How about the best way ppl have found to remove the lines in prints. Ive tryed to print some busts but naturally have a few lines. Filling with filler obviously works to a degree but is there any other ways ppl do that im unaware of….. ive tryed acetone and that just doesnt work on pla
Can we get screenshots of the model before and after it is sliced?
Show preview mode using View: Line Type.
You are asking questions without showing us what we are working with.
Ideally, a link to the model, if it is online, and the 3mf you have the ability (or wish) to share.
The supports should not be touching the model. So if you load the STL in to a CAD program and make sure all the vertices are “merged” (some STLs use a separate set of vertices for each triangle. Others use the same vertex for each triangle that shares that point in common), the supports should look like their own separate objects to the CAD program, separate from the model itself. You should be able to select them and delete them.
Probably doable in MeshMixer if you’re not CAD capable.
I apologise but after loading this stl into bambu this is what I see, this is actually the base but again its done just like the model was.. Im sorry im completely new to this so please be pretty basic in your replys, thank you so much for looking in and offering to help me! btw these are definitely just one box, they are not seperate
I actually got them seperated by doing as you suggested and merging or seperating cant remember which now, but I had trouble deleting more than one line, how do you draw a box around the supports n delte them all? Seems the model is just line 39, weird as that seems
Guys I love you, ive managed to do it, found out it was shift so now I have the model without any supports, it seems I had to split the model into parts and objects before I could seperate them. So happy right now this will save me loads of time, so thank you!!!
ok seems my joy was short lived, when I now press slice plate the model dissapears? I can see it in a diagram with a number 1 but on the build plate theres nothing, please help
its ok ive figured it out, it was unclicked, when I deleted or attempted to delete first time round, now its in plain view and the print time is down from 2hrs 50 to 45 m!!!
This looks like it was designed to be printed on a Resin printer as the “supports” appear as those traditionally used on that sort of model are the model is printed upside down.
It is possible that your attempt to remove the supports in the CAD software has made the mesh open, causing the model to fail at slicing,
Try this:
If this works, try printing.
Just my humble opinion, and I agree that I may be wrong…
I would leave the supports where they are and print with them
- reason - the author probably wanted the model to be printed “diagonally”… and that’s why he put a lot of work into those supports. If they are removed, the model will be (probably) printed “perpendicular” and the result will not be exactly the same - at least the strength in the Z axis will change significantly - while the original diagonal will have much greater strength, the perpendicular will tend to break more easily. That is, of course, if strength plays an important role in this model.
And again - this is just an opinion based on a single image (a fragment of an image). Besides, it’s early in the morning and I haven’t had my coffee yet 
Those supports are for a resin printer. They will definitely not work for FDM. You have to get rid of them. You can orient the print vertically. The reason it’s tilted like it is, is because for SLA printing you do not orient the model orthogonally with the build plate. SLA is opposite of FDM, the prints come out better when they’re at an angle that minimizes how much of the model is in contact with the bottom of the resin tray (because after the laser shoots the resin, it has to be separated from the bottom of the tray so the next layer can be printed, and a large surface area is a large separation force, and that can distort the print).
I’ve had a SLA printer in my arsenal since 2015.
Look similar?
That’s a canopy for a small FPV racing quadcopter, AKA a “drone”.
Looks horrifying, but the supports all come to a small point before they contact the print. They mostly pull right off. It’s actually a pretty satisfying process, ripping them off. Kind of like the satisfaction you get from popping bubble wrap.
Im planning on buying a resin printer this thursday, well in 3 days. How difficult is it to print? Im, buying a curing box and washing station. Seriously looking forward to it cus I love miniatures, painting them. Really hopeful a resin printer, the Elegoo Saturn 16k will print the mini`s im after
Thank you everyone
I can’t say how easy it will be to run the printer you’ve bought. But in general, SLA isn’t any harder to print with than FDM. Maybe easier. There are things you can print with SLA that would be difficult or impossible with FDM, like small internal passages, because supports are less of a problem because the model prints upside down and because you can pretty much orient the model arbitrarily and it will print as well as any other orientation. You can and sometimes will need internal supports, but they’ll still be the “lattice” type used on exterior surfaces, which are pretty easy to remove, or just ignore.
The only reason I don’t use my SLA printer more than I do is because it’s messy. If I need something that looks like it came out of a mold instead of off a printer, I fire it up. Otherwise, FDM is much less fuss.
