What rotation, settings for the print etc. My machine is using .04 Tungsten Hot Ends.
The desire is to have a print that is clean but also as solid as possible. The print does not need to be 100% solid, but fairly durable. Currently printing with Bambu ABS (Silver). I do have ABS Support material arriving today.
Please let me know should any additional information I may have forgotten be required.
I have tried modifying a couple settings only to have a spaghetti mess. So I set all settings back to “normal”. I can post a STL or STEP file should one be desired to experiment with.
Any help, input, critiques would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I would place the bed either flat like this:
EDIT: w/ the design file uploaded, if you choose this orientation, use the top plane not the bottom plane, the bottom plane isn’t flat.
in both situations, using supports to help the quickconnect hose thing.
You can also try 45 degree angles to make those internal shelves easier to do without direct support. Whatever you do, don’t print it with the tip oriented 90 degrees up in the air, imo, it will be very weak and you wil snap it off when you connect that hose and jiggle it once to make sure its secure.
If you’re putting them up on their side like that, I would use the Support Painting tool to stick some more support on the thing.
This will help get it attached to the plate earlier
This is also a good candidate to design your own supports for, if you find this 45/60/etc angle produces the part you want. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnn4XeKQobs the image is enough to understand whats goin on, dont need to watch the whole thing.
All I am using is the standard nozzle that came with the H2D Pro. I used the the stand settings with minor adjustments share by the company I bought the unit from.
Print it in 2 parts or halves. ABS glues extremely well with ABS cement which is readily available at any plumbing store. Or dedicated ABS cement at a hobby store. Or some home made concoction made of acetone and ABS dust (I think)?
I don’t own an H2 so I’m gonna stop giving concrete advice here but
guesswork and conjecture
If youre running bambus default profiles, the machines accel and jerk are tuned very high to get very high speed prints, and the machine will physically rock back and forth. The machine DOES compensate for this in printing accuracy - but you know what doesn’t? Inertia of the object stuck on the plate. Go find a shoebox, hold it by your fingertips on the edge, and shake your hand around. Did it fall outta your grip?
So, to fix this, either slow down, or make supports [with the support painting tool first, you can do this in 3 seconds] that connect it further up.
Im of sound mind. I dont believe just because you dont own something you cant have good advice. If you have knowledge share it. Thank you for your input!
I cannot tell you how many times I have watched this machine run and thought, seems too fast, jerks too hard. Well I think this is maybe my tenth run (success and fails). But I read slowing it down improves quality as well. Guy slowed it by like 30%-50%. Not sure what would be ideal.
On the top toolstrip next to move,resize,colorpaint, etc.
TL;DR: for bambustudio, basically leftclick paint on areas that MUST also be supported regardless of angle, and rightclick to paint areas the MUST not have supports on it [like when its impossible to remove]. If you have it still set to auto, it will blend both these manual commands and the autogen ones.
If you go the slowdown method, do it with “Acceleration” more than speed. Cruising at 80 doesn’t flip your car, hooking the wheel does
