I’m not sure about solving the problem, but for such picture have you tried changing top surface patern? I don’t think monotonic line is good choice for this type of print even if the problem gets solved.
That looks like a classical warping failure for large prints. Either the edges pulled up and off the plate, or the warping even lifted the plate edge off the heat bed.
There are some edge clamps on MakerWorld which can help to hold down the plate.
Personally, I prefer to take more time and reduce layer height with these issues as clamps do not adress the root cause. Reducing layer height however injects less heat per layer, resulting in a more even cooling and hence much reduced warping. In extreme cases I also reduce printing speed for the same, cumulative effect.
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Printing problem, my print started with no defect, but in the last steps of printing, I noticed some problems. First, an anomaly on the surface it was like a scar but with some tiny holes. It was like some extra filament was deposited between layers. I had to pause printing and manually sanded a little bit of the top layer. This solved the defects in the next layers. Then it started to collide with the supports, and broke them. It seemed that again there was the presence of some filament excess. This printing was a 35 hrs printing and the problems started to happen in last 7 hours of printing. The model was a Mandalorian helmet and it reached the maximum high of printing
My settings were
quality 0.2 mm, density 15%, wall loops 3, external wall speed 200, inner wall speed 300, support tree automatic, adaptative layer only in last layers of the helmet top
Ironing issue, wenn enabled i get this errors in the toplayer. Always in the corne of the shown squares.
Printed with PETG HF and all ironing settings in Standard.
so, I am printing a tabletop bowling lane on my a1 mini but a lot of the time while building it messed up on the trapezoid shape connectors causing the whole print to fail. Anything I should change?
I have this problem where the layer above the sparse infill curls up, ruining following layers. This print in particular is in ‘Bambu PETG’ using the default filament settings on the A1 mini. The curling starts on the layer with line type ‘Bridge’. Anyone know why this is happening and what solutions to try?
I tried attaching screenshots but it’s not letting me.
Hello Everybody, Since yesterday, the filament in the extruder wheel of my A1 has been slipping again. I fitted a new one today but the problem persists.
I have already opened a ticket, but wanted to hear your opinion.
The extruder wheel also cracks when turning and the print is faulty. The printer also sometimes stops with an extruder error.
If you really love PETG then I cannot help you but have you tried using PLA? It works great for me.
Hi, I’m defiantly new to this. I’m trying to print out a test tube stand in PLA Basic. This is my second try after trying after play a little with the settings (after following Common print quality problems and solutions | Bambu Lab Wiki Stringing and oozing ). The first one came out the same (Until I stopped it). There are two tree support too. This is in a P1S and I have AMS.
The problem is that the pillar get strange in the middle as you can see, and I don’t know what this issue is called or how to fix it 
Please help 
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The print does not have sufficient time to cool before the nozzle deposits the next layer. Minimum layer time is supposed to combat this, but it only slows down the print, keeping the hot nozzle close to the area that needs to cool.
=> You need to force the nozzle away during cooling phases
=> Take a non-tradituonal timelapse with prime tower
=> And/Or: Print two or more identical objects on the same plate
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Tall thin structures can wobble a bit because the extruding filament pulls on the thin column as the print head moves around.
Studio 1.10 has finally made it possible to manually add supports to vertical surfaces to stop this type of wobble. Just manually paint supports on opposite sides of the pillar at two or three heights. These supports will not actually touch the pillar(they are offset by the Support x/y distance), but will brace the pillar against movement.
That said, I would not use this design. It mimics a traditional stand, with a steel rod in a heavy base and an adjustable height tube holder with a thumb screw clamp.
3D printed in plastic, the base will be pretty light and the “rod” will be very weak, likely to break at any of the layer lines and certainly where the tube ring meets the rod. It is also- non-adjustable.
At the very least, I would use an actual steel rod with a plastic base and tube ring. Or create an entirely different plastic design with a more substantial vertical component.
3 Likes
Thanks @EnoTheThracian and @Ikraus, I’ll use your tips and do a new print.
Its not for a normal test tube, its for a decoration test tube, it will more or less be placed there once, other vice I totally agree. 
2 Likes
Hallo,
ich habe ein ähnliches Problem auf einem X1C, welches reproduzierbar ist. In Fusion360 habe ich ein Modell erstellt und ausgedruckt. Der Druck war ok.
Dann habe ich einige Änderungen vorgenommen und seit dem ist Druck ab der Oberkante der vorderen Blende um 2mm nach rechts und 5mm nach hinten verschoben.
Das ist der letzte Versuch, nachdem ich etwas angepasst habe. Leider ist der Versatz wieder da.
Filament ist Extrudr PLA NX.
Hat jemand eine Idee, was das Problem ist?
Viele Grüße
Matthias
Ist Deine Nozzle noch gerade?
Es sieht so aus, als würde es bei der Lage vor dem Versatz wegen einer langen Lagendauer zu örtlichem curling/warping gekommen. Wenn die Nozzle den Bereich dann bei der nächsten Lage mit Karracho erwischt kommt es schnell zum Belt slipping und/oder verbogenen Hot ends.
Um den entgegen zu wirken solltest Du auf einen warmen Bauraum achten (35-39° aber ohne ironing(!)). Und trocken muss das Filament natürlich auch sein. Es gibt noch ein paar weitere Kniffe bzgl. curling (reduzierte Lagenhöhe im kritischen Bereich mit adaptive layer, örtliche Geschwindigkeitsreduzierung mit Modifier) falls das nicht reicht.
Aber erst einmal die Nozzle checken, die XY Riemen neu spannen und den Drucker wieder Kalibrieren.
Hallo,
danke für die schnelle Antwort.
Mir ist nicht aufgefallen, dass die Nozzle schief ist. Ich werde das morgen Abend prüfen. Mein erster Verdacht war auch, dass die Nozzle vor das Objekt haut und es verschoben hat. Dass war aber nicht der Fall. Dass der Riemen durchrutscht, hatte ich noch nicht bedacht.
Habe gerade das Objekt um 180 Grad gedreht, so dass die Vorderseite hinten ist und den Druck noch einmal gestartet, um zu schauen, was passiert.
VG
Matthias
1 Like
HI,
I have a print issue while I am printing my part which is a curved pipe upwards and found out that there is a hole in the slicer and even I print out with a hole does anyone knows why it is and how to correct it and print without the hole. any help appreciated.
how can I uppload the picture?
Kindly
MAmo
See Understanding Discourse Trust Levels
TLDR version: Spend 10 minutes or more reading at least 30 posts in five topics to raise your Trust Level to Basic, which allows starting new topics and posting pictures.
It is also helpful if you can post the project as a .3mf file so that we can see which settings are being used.
1 Like
hi,
how did you upload you picture on BAmbu forum?
I want to ask some print problems and could not uppload my pic
any help appreciated
Regards
MAmo
