To help finalise my decision on which H2 printer to buy I am interested in whether the H2D does in fact deliver the same print quality as the h2S on various filament including PLA and PETG.
A number of Youtube reviews suggest they are equal but posts on this forum indicate otherwise.
I would be interested in hearing from users who have direct experience with both models rather than relying on Youtube promotions.
“Posts on this forum indicate otherwise”? What do you mean? That the H2S delivers better or worse print quality?
I have both printers and I do not notice a significant difference. In one color prints, the H2S is slightly faster, but not by a lot. Both excellent printers!
I finally sold my (fully upgraded) klipper printer this week after I started my Bambu Lab adventure in May this year with the H2D. When I prepared my klipper printer to sell it, it ‘felt’ very oldfashined and slow.
Glad that I made the step…
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Some yt reviewers have complained about ringing in the x direction with the H2S at certain print speeds. I think this should be fixable with a software patch and/or slicer settings. Not sure, since I don’t have one myself.
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Thanks for your response. My perception is the H2S is slightly better than the H2D in terms of print quality. But glad your exp[erience with the H2D has been rewarding. My preference is to go with the H2D.
Are you aware they are launching an H2C soon?
Yes - supposed to be 4Q 2025 but whether it lands before Christmas is anyone’s guess. A few people have suggested the price on the H2D will likely drop just before launch. Not sure I can justify the extra cost as a DIY guy mainly interested in engineering stuff. Two colours are sufficient for me.
I don’t print too much “multi” color prints. And when I do I often don’t need to print large batches like a farm. So yeah, H2C brings little to no value for me on multi color.
But it brings the vortek induction heating, which is super cool for engineering filaments. It’s one of the potential solution to overhang warping and benchy hulllines.
Hopefully they can provide an upgrade option without sacrificing the printable area. Otherwise I won’t be upgrading my current H2D.
Good point - the H2C induction heating may well improve print quality on more challenging filaments. Reducing the number connecting cables is another plus which should improve long term reliability as well. Who knows BL may also improve rigidity…
The only major diffrence between my H2D and H2S is the part cooling. I find that the H2S needs the fan speed set higher than the H2D. For example, with PETG-CF, I get great overhangs up to 70 degrees with stock settings on the H2D. On the H2S I had to increase the fan speed up to 75% @30s layer time. Parts are equal in strength so i think there is just much less airflow.
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Not too surprising, as PETG-CF struggles with default overhangs param on A1 too.
The airflow is, I found, virtually the same as A1’s, except that A1’s “center of airflow concentration” is only about 15° tilted to the left while H2S about 30°.
H2D, too, is tilted, but the gigantic toolhead seems to offer the best overhang cooling of recent bambu printers, better than P2S too (from what review prints are showing).
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What exactly is the theory that induction heating can solve such problems? For combating hull lines, what I have seen has been focused on evening out shrinkage via, largely, layer times, fan speed controls, speed etc.
You can theoretically print at lower temps for those slower printing areas. E.g., internal bridging. Internal bridging always creates a huge layer line because of overcooling. However if you print cool, you don’t need a lot of fan to let the plastic cool. You can lower the printing temp of internal bridges, or top surface shell layers to say 170C for PLA (because these were printed slowly) and now you probably only need half cooling output, reducing the cold effect on other layers and model parts.
It’s also doable on normal hotends, it’s just not as good as induction, because induction heats up and cool down super fast when compared with normal hotends.
That definitely can help, with slicer implementations. Significant temp change beyond a certain delta might add flow inconsistencies during transition and surface finish disparities esp for overhang layers 
.
for internal bridging, honestly I think the slicer should separate it from external ones in speed/fans. For filaments that bridges okay, sometimes I just disable the forced fan boost and slow down and it does just as well, maybe add a few more top shells, but I found this quite effective at ridding the ugly hull lines for high shrinkage PETGs. Given the current lack of internal/external distinction, not practical for some models, hence the needed separation.
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since most aesthetic parts are basically printed in PLA, as long as this feature works with PLA I’m very happy about it ;p.
Would be great if PETG, PETG-CF, and ABS works too. PETG-CF would be great outdoor parts and ABS would be great cosplay parts.
Hi thanks for your response above… interessting!