I’m fairly new to h2d but have done a lot of printing on it in a short time. All my prints have turned out perfect except today a new print. I started one of a statue generated in maker world.
For the first time I’m seeing layer lines. Print is overall pretty low quality. I know the first questions will be about filament drying - brand new bambu spools basic pla.
You can see the lines on the brown and white
My AMS is set up on the left nozzle and the white is coming from that. The brown is on the right nozzle - no AMS - just external.
I should have asked - any suggestions on what to look at?
Something loose on my printer? Or is it filament ? Bad print profile?
Bambu Print profiles are optimized for Bambu filaments, so that’s surely not the issue.
Bambu filament is made for Bambu printers, and you can see all the content creators use Bambu’s PLA basic perfectly fine, so that’s not the issue either.
Is something loose on your printer?
That is a very good question, since, unless your model was terribly sliced, most people found that the screws behind the nozzle’s LEFT ceramic plate to be loose. take off the nozzle, unscrew the ceramic plate (that white thing with the screws holding it into the toolhead with the metal clips on it) and there should be screws behind that. Check those.
Love it. I’ll try it out.
My ams was on the right until recently and all prints perfect. I moved it to left because of wanting to print tpu soon.
Anything else I should check?
I came from an ender 5 that I used for years but this machine has so many more options and knobs that I could have hosed up.
I also messed with the default supports to put PETG against the model instead of pla. Maybe I messed with other things. Is there an option that is “print worse than a 6 yr old ender 5 pro”?
Any option could potentially be “print worse than a 6 yr old ender 5 pro” if you weren’t paying attention. The cool thing with Bambu filaments, they were made for your Bambu lab printers! Just read the RFID tags with your AMS and use the “sync with device” button on the slicer. You should get the right filament settings without having to add anything manually. That’s only for non-Bambu filaments.
well my checklist would be:
- Check both hotend heating assembly for any loose screws. Don’t bother wiggling it. Just unscrew them all and retighten them again firmly
- Check slicer settings, might be random seam
- Dry the filament like a mad man
- Double check that you’re using at least automatic flow calibration, or do a very precise manual calibration yourself.
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does Random Seam cause this? I may have turned that on for this print :(. Might have solved it before I had to do anything. Thank you if that’s the case. I didn’t want a uniform seam - but didn’t know that caused it to go wonky. I’m letting the print finish, so I haven’t taken anything apart yet to check. There are so many variables that changed, that in my mind I thought left nozzle first. Didn’t occur to me the seam may have done it.
I need to google Automatic Flow calibration - is that a setting from studio when you send a print? or something else?
lol if it’s on then this makes perfect sense
yeah it’s a toggle when you’re sending the print. it calibrates pressure advance (instead of flow rate)
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Absolute hero if that’s the case. Thank you - seriously. Why does it do that? I thought all it did was not have a uniform seam. WOW - guess I should have read about it first. That setting shouldn’t be there if it can do that.
random seam improves the structural strength by not having an aligned seam somewhere that is prone to break. Seams are usually weaker.
The problem is that it also causes ununiform extrusion across the surface (seam itself is a sort of ununiform extrusion, so randomizing it = having bad surface), making it uglier.
Usually there would be some corners for a part to hide the seam, but if there’s a round object like the image above, then there’s no way to really hide it except from using scarf seam. However, scarf seam has its own challenges as well, for example it works very bad on overhangs.
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Well now I feel like a bit of a dullard. But I will say thank you to the informed community as that is a super easy fix, and best case to be honest.
I wanted to go down to the .2 nozzle as well for more detail, but it seemed to need more supports up on the head of the statue and I fear the scarring it will be when I try to break that away.
for a print at that size, I wouldn’t really bother with 0.2, you probably would have a lot more suffering from that…
But definitely do it just for the fun, it’s 99% gonna fail but worth the learning process ;p
Speaking of failing - something is off on the supports. I feared scarring, but didn’t see this happening. Any setting I should look at?
I had a large gap from support to model with petg. Maybe I should have done 0 offset.
Or do a gap and PLA support. But don’t do gap and petg?
it’s very tricky to print these features. you can try use tree suport with Support for PLA as Support Interface with 0 gap.
Don’t bother with PETG as support interface, it’s not worth it.
Might try going back to default aligned, then select auto circle contour hole compensation it cleans up seams pretty nicely for my models despite being in Quality>precision and not being in seam settings. I’ve been having a ton of problems with tree supports since my most recent roll of ASA but also started after the most recent Bambu Studio update also.
