I have a perfect project to try the high flow 0.4 nozzle I bought. If I change the nozzle from standard to high flow in the LHS main menu my estimated print time actually increase about 4 minutes on a 9 hour job. Please tell me what I’m missing. - thanks
Maybe this? The filament must also be suitable for high flow, respectively the settings. Direct Drive: High Flow. …and also check whether the filament settings are suitable for high flow. (Solution from 3DTech - linked below.)
I think, BambuLabs missed to adjust the process settings accordingly. Maybe, because everybody wants to make use of the higher flow in a different way? These are the options I use to reduce print time with a HF nozzle:
- Increase speeds: the obvious one. It has less effect than you would expect for smaller or very intricate parts, because the printer is mainly busy accelerating and decelerating most of the time, seldom reaching the set speed.
- increase line width: again best for big and sturdy parts, were you would use a high wall count for stability. When you increase line width from 0.42 to 0.6 or even more, you can significantly reduce wall count while preserving wall rhickness. If you want to preserve details, only increase inner wall line width. higher line width for internal solid infill also can save a lot of time. I usually don’t increase sparse infill line width, because then lines are farther apart, increasing gaps to be bridged by.
- increase layer height: this also works for smaller parts. Downsides are a bit more pronounced layer lines / less detail and worse overhang performance.
I typically use a combination of all three for bigger parts. E.g. increase layer height to 0.24mm, if overhangs allow it, increase line widths and increase speed for sparse infill.
In the preview, the views “flow” and “speed” are your best friends. If speed is less than you selected for a feature then probably flow is at its limit. in flow view, you can see which features would allow even more speed or line width.
I don’t know about the H2x HF nozzles. for the E3D Obxidian, the presets are very conservative with flow. Almost all my materials easily handle more than 40mm³/s, so I generally set max flow to 35, which already is a huge margin. So if you want to optimise print time, it really makes sense to test for the max flow rate of your filament. Bambu Studio has a test included.
Hi MBG,
I have been using and building 3D printers for about 12 years, but have only owned my P2S Combo for about a week.
I had exactly the same experience, when using my 0.4 HF Hardended Steel Nozzle (purchased from Bambu Lab). Using Bambu PLA Basic filament, this is what I did:
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I set ‘FLOW’ to ‘High Flow’ then sliced the model; time was about 16hrs
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I set ‘FLOW’ to ‘Standard’, then re-sliced the model; time was about 15 hrs
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Using ‘Edit’ in the Filament ‘Gear wheel’ drop-down, I checked volumetric flow rate for both ‘Direct drive High Flow’ (40mm3/s), and ‘Direct drive Standard’ (21mm3/s)
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I also noted that under ‘Process →Speed’ tab the Max speed for ‘Standard’ was about 300mm/s, whilst Max speed when ‘Nozzle→ Flow’ was switched to ‘High Flow’ it was 600mm/s. So in theory the print should be quicker with HF, but not so!
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(BTW: I did note that ‘Silk PLA’ uses same volumetric rate (12mm3/s) for ‘Standard’ and ‘High Flow’ as high speed printing is not recommended, for the best finish)
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I contacted Bambu support, using a ticket, and some screen shots, asking if this should be happenning. The reply was something like “thanks for your input, we have logged this bug, which will be addressed in a later update”
My work around:
- As a test, I sliced a model using ‘HF nozzle’ (just in case G-Code contained something important, other than speed), I set a 2hr print running, then after a few layers I changed the speed in the printer menu, from ‘Standard’, to ‘Sports’, The time reduced and the print quality did not seem to suffer, apart from some very minor stringing. I then increased the speed to ‘Ludicrous’, and again the print quality was not adversely affected. As Bambu Wiki suggests about 30% time saving with HF nozzle, this was probably a bit excessive, but…
- Based on this test, I started my 16hr print, then after a few layers set speed to ‘Ludicrous’ for the rest of the print, which ran just fine, I may have been just lucky, that the model I chose (Moon Lamp) may have disguised the difference.
- ITM - I just hope that Bambu manage to fix this apparent ‘bug’
Thank you for the detailed response. I haven’t had the P2S that long but what would have happened if you set speed to Ludicrous without the high flow nozzle? (just want to check if it’s worth it to change to the high flow nozzle) - thanks
Hi MBG,
You are welcome.
To answer your question. I would not know, but it might block the nozzle and/or jam the extruder. I will just use the HF nozzle when necessary.
I did note that using the 0,6 Standard nozzle reduced print times considerably. A simple concept really: sacfrifice quality for speed, but match quality to requirements, just get the balance right.
The Moon lamp surface was too ‘bumpy’ to notice any quality loss, so I was happy I chose high speed printing. With the lamp base, I used the HF nozzle, with ‘Sport’ and it was perfect.
My only concern is the long-term effect of high-speed printing on the printer itself. I will use it sparingly I think
Despite this minor issue, the PS2 is by far the best 3D printer I have ever owned. It’s predecessor, the Flashforge Creator Dual Pro, with Simplify3D was the ‘plugnplay’ front-runner, but the PS2 Combo with Bambu Studio is a world apart.
Hi,
Further to my last reply:
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I failed to mention selecting HF nozzle on the printer itself, followed by ‘Sync’ in Bambu Studio
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I ran another (1hr) print today, using same set-up, but just increasing to ‘Sport’ on the printer. This time there were some artifacts in the print. It was a symetrical part, with one side OK, and the other not, so not geometry, leaving no apparent logic as to why. I re-ran at ‘Standard’ speed and the problem went away, so I am now reluctant to continue with this approach. I conclude that the speed increase has to be applied, only where appropriate, during the slicing process. Global speed increase is not a substitute, in all cases.
For some reason I cannot post ‘with images’ to show model and problems.
Increasing speed [profile or sport mode] increases flow AND machine motion
Increasing line width increases ONLY flow
It’s a good way to discern if your artifacts on the sport print are from pushing the motion system or from pushing the extruder/heater/nozzle flow components. There is a lot of wisdom in the post above that talked about increasing inner wall widths and leaving the outer alone.
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Thanks for the heads-up. Understood.
I could not post images of the part, but from what I can see it would appear to be the motion system.
Personally, I would prefer to see Bambu Studio automatically adjusting print speeds when using the HF nozzle, as longer times do not make sense.
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I was told by Bambu Support that high-speed film is not supported with a nozzle