I am using an H2d and X1C and I have had pretty good luck with them. A few minor faults and hiccups but for the most part they work very well. I have noticed that about 95% of my failed prints are because of 1st Layer adhesion. Very rarely, something goes wrong after the first few layers are well attached to the bed. If I can minimize the 1st layer problems, I fix a huge percentage of my failed prints. I usually put a long print on before I hit the sack and its really discouraging having the print fail 10 minutes into it. Sorry for the long intro but my question is this. Has anyone used Cold Plates or Low temperature bed plates and what do you think?
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I would assume that most (not all) first layer adhesion issues are due to the plate not being clean, so i would start by making sure you’re cleaning them often and not handling the print area directly to avoid getting an oils on them, next step is to make sure your filaments are dry, from there you can look at other things like lowering the first layer speed or adjusting the temperatures of the bed/hotend
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Clean your Buildplate 
! Nah, mabye lower the first layer speed, or clean your builplate regulary. I dont use a cold plate but when my prints fail like this, i clean the plate and they work again. My bed temprature is 60°C
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first layer adhesion is usually the biggest failure point on long prints.
I haven’t used Cold Plates personally, but many users report they can help with reducing warping and improving release, especially for certain filaments like PLA. That said, getting your bed leveling, Z-offset, and surface cleaning (IPA wipe) dialed in often gives the biggest improvement first.
Would be interested to hear if anyone here has real long-term experience with Cold vs standard textured plates on the H2D/X1C 
Both of your printers have outstanding bed mesh and leveling capabilities, and typically have no issue laying down an excellent first layer. If your first layer isn’t sticking, you either have some weird settings going on, a dirty build plate, or both.
Wash your plate with dish soap, a nylon scrub brush, and hot water, then dry with paper towel. Not with a dish cloth.
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I was just wondering if the cold plate technology made any difference. Thanks for the insights. I do notice a clean build plate is very important. I assume by the comments that the cold plates don’t really make any difference.
Agree with all the responses you’ve got so far. I’ve had mixed results with the SuperTack plate the main advantage seems to be it’s a bit more tolerant of less cleaning plus saves a little power. You don’t mention the plate you’re using but my “go to” is always the the smooth PEI plate that has better adhesion that the textured plates and is much easier to clean if you’re currently using a textured plate.
Thanks for the reply. I am using a standard PEI Smooth plate. Found a couple online that are a little better price than the BL plates. When they stick, they work great but it is that occasional project that just doesn’t want to lay down a good 1st layer. I am cleaning the plates very well after each use and slowing down the 1st layer to 25/45 and that seems to help a lot.
Biqu’s Glacier plate is one of the better cool plates you can buy [IMO]. I’ve found it very performant, especially if you juice the bed temp +5C more than recommended, but still far below PEI. Durability so far has been way better than expected.
Elegoo’s B-side is right up there with em but they [currently] only come attached to a $280 printer 
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My glacier runs with default temperatures. I pay the bills. I fail prints when I get the profile wrong and have the exhaust at 40% while sucking in 20°C air from outside. It’s always that reason 
I have had a great experience with Bambu’s and BQ cool plates and PLA that I print most often. PETG has been great on both brands. Clean plate is still key. Don’t touch the plate with your fingers. If you do wash it. I wash my plate about every 5 prints or so.
It has always been the case that if a 3D print is going to fail, it will most likely fail in the first few layers. It is because a printer prints better when it is printing then when it is starting. I like to call it the cornfield effect. If you notice a corn field, the plants around the edges are never as robust as the plants in the in middle of the field. It has a lot to do with corn pants growing best when surrounded by other corn plants.
On 3D prints, most failures begin along the edges, where the plastic is not surrounded by other plastic. The lifting always begins on the edges, more likely on a corner, where the plastic has the least contact with surrounding plastic. Before Bambu, I had taken to using skirts, where a line of filament is laid down encircling the print, and when that didn’t work, I’d use brims. All with the idea that the printer would be running before the print would start, and that none of the print is on the outside edge. I also use chamfered edges for a similar reason. On the second and succeeding layers, the overhang, adds weight and helps hold down the first layer. As the calibration function is rather trivial, the advantage of the lines that Bambu printers lay down before the print starts is that it gets the printer running before the print starts. Just about every time a print begins to fail, which is rare, if I stop it, quickly scrap off what has been printed, wipe down the build plate, and restart the print while everything is still warm, the second try succeeds 99% of the time.
I have been using Bambu’s Super Tack plates with great success. After every print I wipe down the plate with a dry microfiber cloth and have never had a problem with them. I sometimes print very small things. On PEI plates I can lose as many as half of the small parts, but on the Super Tack plates, I never lose one. They all stick to the end.
Sadly i have the oposite experience with Super Tack plates, nothing small sticks to it, only massive gridfinity things work. For example words on the bottom, wont work. Will literally peel of the second it comes to the plate.
I had better success with textured but my success failure rate is something like 60% success, failures are: After half of the print layers, bed adhesion goes reall bad and if i dont have a brim with 0mm gap they will go off. I did run all calibrations on that type of sheet, even the precise calibrations.
I have a bambu supertack plate and from my opinion, it’s the best build plate I’ve ever used. Everything sticks. That’s all I can say. With my old textured pei I wiped it down before every print, but with the supertack, I wash it whenever I accidently touch the bed (which is very rarely). The only fails I’ve had is when I was printing the toymaker 3d ironshell and I put like 20 things on a plate and most of them were very tall parts with very little area on the bed.
I know many don’t like to use glue but I use it routinely and rarely have 1st layer adhesion issues. I did have an issue a week or so ago but it was me forgetting to put glue where a prime tower went.
I use glue stick on smooth plates like the cool plate, and Bambu liquid glue on textured PEI. My textured PEI plate is as old as the printer and without glue, only some models still stay stuck down. With glue they all stick and well. Lots of little bits too. I do a number od detailed lightbox lenses where the little bits would be a mess without glue helping out.
But some don’t like using glue and I get that, but as long as we’re washing plates anyway…
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it sounds to me like you don’t have a clean bed. (just guessing) make sure no human hands touch your bed. Hire a bunch of Oma-Lumpa to wash your bed with plain Dawn dish soap. some use a microfiber cloth to dry. But that is overkill, won’t hurt.
Vous pouvez aussi essayer de mettre de la colle pour plateau disponible sur bambu store.