I’m very new, but the print time seems crazy long on this. Am I missing something, or is that just the reality?
humm does look a bit long what filament are you printing with and did you change any settings in bambu studio or do you have the link if its from maker world
eSun PLA. I created it in fusion and then transferred it over to bambu.
I have never seen someone have their filament estimations set to imperial units. I couldnt tell you how many oz are in a kg off the top of my head.(not a criticism, it just threw me off for a sec)
The easiest thing to do is share the print profile
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What sized nozzle are you running and what layer height are you printing at? I’ve had 36 hour prints when using my 0.2 nozzle to do 0.08 layer height. So this print time isn’t out of the realm of possibility. Also because of the supports, it’s add a lot of extra time.
I’d suggest turning off the supports and reslicing just to see how much of a time difference it makes.
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Adding to what’s already been said here: Saving time starts with the actual 3D object itself. This doesn’t look very optimized to me - it’s downright 3D printer-unfriendly.
In your case, the biggest way to save time is to avoid support. That alone is eleven hours you could potentially save.
Try different orientations, and if you can edit the object itself, experiment with curves, rounded edges, slopes, etc. Of course, I don’t know what purpose that object serves, but there’s certainly enormous potential for savings.
Sorry for my poor drawing skills, but here’s how you can save a lot of support: On the left, how you’re doing it - sharp edges. On the right, rounded edges, without any need for support. That saves a huge amount of time.
One thing that has helped me get quicker print times is to reduce the sparse infill to 10% and use 3d honeycomb. That one little change can be a real time saver.
This appears to be a functional part rather than a decorative item. Thicker layer lines will print quicker and be stronger if appearance is not the main concern.
Over nineteen hours are spent printing supports, so reducing those will save some time. Try reslicing with different faces of the model on the plate.
The top part appears to have a flat solid plane on the right rear; put that on the bed. That eliminates the supports on at least two edges, though both of the ears might then need support or a different design. @RetroSharky’s suggestion would also make those features stronger.
Try putting the second part’s rectangular frame flat on the bed with the two angled legs in the air. The two arms might then print without support; that could save 7.5 hours. But consider the forces on the parts; this orientation could lead to breakage along the layer lines.
I’m in the U.S., and I’ve done a lot of woodworking using Imperial measurements because that’s how the available tools are sized. But all my 3D printing work is done with metric measurements; it is just easier. The metric system is the standard for filament spools, nozzles, line widths, layer heights, screws, and anything else related to 3D printing. Good luck searching for a two-pound spool of 0.06889-inch-diameter filament. Even with Imperial preferences set in Studio, all Process settings are still given in metric units.
I often fix broken things around the house by printing parts that I cannot buy. I measure the broken part with calipers, and recreate it in Fusion. It is usually clear if it was designed with Imperial or metric dimensions. If I find primarily large, even inch-fractions (1/2", 5/32"), I might set Fusion for imperial sizes, but I usually keep my default metric settings, entering values with " or in, letting Fusion handle the conversion.
Sometimes you just have to go with the flow.
It is a 0.4 nozzle. That is just what the machine came with. I have not tried any others.
It’s a dust collection shroud for my table saw. I’ve done woodworking for years and only know imperial.
Is it possible the transfer from fusion to bambu studio is causing issues?
When I first designed this the walls were 1/2 in thick. I made them thinner thinking that would save time printing. Dumb idea?
Maybe I should just make several parts and piece them together rather than one big part?
Bambu Studio has a nice feature for beginners that lets you split an object and insert joints. Once you have more experience, it’s better to do it in CAD, but for beginners? It’s great! Just add a little superglue, and you’re done.
If you want to do it properly, you can also use nuts and bolts. There are also special threads that you can insert with a soldering iron. They don’t cost much and are super handy.
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Yes and no 
In general those “1/2 in thick plywood walls” actually become 1/32nd of plastic - a 90/10 air/plastic mix - and 1/32nd of plastic. “Print time” is often about the truth that every line has to be drawn one at a time, so less plastic means less time. If you were to generate that print of the same size but with more walls or more infill [walls generally are more strength than infill, preferable] it becomes 1/8th of plastic, a 90/10 air/plastic mix, and 1/8th of plastic, and it will be stronger, but take more time. But it will still occupy the same outside dimension of 1/2". Kinda visualize hollow core doors or ikea furniture.
Often times this is more sturdy. You can think of the “grain” running along the XY plane.
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The transfer from Fusion to Studio has never changed my model and does not affect print time. Thinner parts obviously print quicker and are only a dumb idea if the part becomes too weak to do the job. Using multiple parts is a judgement call; fewer supports print in less time, but that means more time for redesign and assembly.
Sometimes you have to pick an approach and see what happens. I have come to expect the first couple print iterations of my designs to end up in the trash. Some measurement is slightly wrong, or the orientation leads to a weak corner, or I forgot a fillet…
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It’s not off the top of my head (I did the conversion using the HP45 on my desk…) but it’s about 35.274.
The reason I know this is because I’m trying to get the first 3D printed part (a TPU air duct) into the inventory management system at work, and the weight units of measure (for billing the raw material) are confined to ounces and pounds…
Sorry for the mini-hijack, @user_3191880745 . If you were doing a dust collection boot for a CNC router, you’d have pre-made files coming out your ears…
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