Hello creative people,
what could be the main problem if the result of the printing like the picture below?
is the filament to wet or the setting problem?
I was using Sunlu TPU 95A with A1. I just choose generic TPU from the list and printed it without changing any setting.
I don’t have much experience with TPU (only Bambu), but on the few occasions that I have used it, my main problem was the filament was not dry enough.
Don’t assume that TPU straight out of the packaging is ready to go, mine wasn’t. I use a Sunlu S4 dryer, the preset says it takes 4-6 hours to dry TPU.
I used the Generic setting on the A1 at first, but results were better after I calibrated the filament.
Edit: don’t try and use it with AMS Lite, separate spool only.
yup… I don’t use AMS, use the external spool…
after I dry it for 6 hours… it fix this problem… the string still exist, but not craxy like this, just small one like short hair on the object surface…
may I know your setting setup for TPU?
I use my A1 mini for TPU all the time it works faultlessly.
Try a regular shape, like a cube first to see if it is the model.
The default Bambu TPU 95A setting, 0.16mm Optimal BBL A1. 230 C
This looks like the same model. But using Overture HS TPU.
https://youtube.com/shorts/abTfB_YfVKc?si=XOTRdxDggtWibwal
Did you try a cube?
Do you have a link to the model itself?
Sadly no link to the model, YouTube just served the short to me 
so, somehow// at the end, no setting is the right setting. only do with try and error we can find the right setting. it seems TPU, even with 95A on it, is always different from one brand to other brand. I have PLA from 2-3 brands and I can use 1 setting in bambu studio, the result still the same.
Unless brands source their filament from one production facility, it is very likely that settings need to be specific. Think about it, even if you buy filament from the same supplier, different batches can give different results.
I try to reduce this difficulty by always following a standard process, I buy from the same suppliers (brands), dry the filament, calibrate the filament and the printer.
Despite the fact that 3D printing is a lot easier on new machines, lots of variables impact print quality.
thank you… I will try it…
i dried my filament 6 hours in Sunlu S4
How are you printing it if you don’t have a link to the model to share?
I was going to try printing it myself to see if I get the same result.
@MalcTheOracle I am sorry I wasn’t clearer on this.
Have a quick re-read of the thread. @Salonooz was the person printing this model. I said that I had printed a small amount of TPU, I shared what I did when printing it. sometime later in my YouTube feed a short showed up with what looked like the model Salonooz was trying to print, so I shared it.
I haven’t ever attempted to print the same model, I’ve never downloaded it.
I was just trying to offer some general help.
I am sorry for the confusion…
Thank you @Rmedias for your help…
In my experience with different TPU brands, it has to be fed from the external out of say a Sunlu S2 dryer. It has to stay in a dryer at all times. Run a bowden tube. Dry it for a day prior on the TPU setting, and print it at a slow speed. I wouldn’t go over 60 mm/s regardless of what the mfg says it can do. As far as temp that I can’t give because it will vary a bit between brands. The bed temp I run is 60°.
my dryer is Sunslu S4… and the position of the printer is not good enogh to close it with the dryer, small space… but even I’ve already dry it for 6 hours, it still have the stringing, but not as miserable as the first picture I send…
TPU will work in AMS with a mod CAPXL AMS Mod - Print TPU/Flex ≥85A on your AMS by chemape - MakerWorld
Just thought I’d leave this for people coming across it in the future.
Im in the camp of drying and got my first TPU right first try.
I think this could be wet filament but I’m not entirely sure. I 3D print prosthetics in TPU on the A1 and it works fine if the area it’s in is dry enough
