used this design Uno Card Box - SnapLock Remixed by mteomarch - MakerWorld layers are having problems and are very hard to remove
maybe this is related but I live in Bangkok, Thailand and this started on the same day that a earthquake happened. the epicenter was Myanmar being a 7.77 magnitude.
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The earthquake would seem unrelated but you could always recalibrate the printer (from the menu on the printer).
I would guess that this issue is due to a partial clog in the nozzle. The way I would test that is by loading up some filament and manually extruding it and verify that it comes out nice and straight down. If it doesn’t then use the wiki process to clean it:
If problems persist you might need to calibrate your filaments.
It looks like your nozzle z distance is far tighter than it should be. Was there a clicking sound while it printed? Coming from the extruder?
If you did not do the auto-leveling in a while, now would be good. Probably after running through the reccomended maintenance.
If you did it recently, there’s probably something wrong with the nozzle height sensing. Maybe a bed tramming could be helpful?
Hope that you and yours are not affected by the quake and its effects.
I think it’s possible that this is caused by the nozzle not being locked in place properly due to the earthquake therefore being too low.
there is clicking coming from the extruder. and yes i am fine. my building got lots of cracks but it is safe.
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I have an Bambu lab A1. not the X1 or P1. is there a page for this on the A1?
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just did this: A1 Bed Tramming | Bambu Lab Wiki
after scraping it over and over again for around ten min in total it still looks like this. I noticed that when I put the plate on the bed and put it on full temperature(100°C) it is way easier but still very hard. let me know if you have ideas to easily clean it other than buying a new plate
That does look pretty ingrained. One trick successfully used in the past is to print another one to two layer flat surface over the residue using the same material.
Once fully cooled (do not be afraid to put the plate in a freezer), there’s a chance to pull some of the residue out with the flat printed sheet.
It does neccessitate the resolution of the wrong nozzle distance problem first though. Hopefully the bed tramming resolved that but should of course be carefully verified.
Furthermore, there are limits as to what can be achieved even with multiple attempts.
It may be prudent to increase the nozzle temp by 5 to 10° for that flat sheet print.
Stay safe, 
and 
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Chat gpt said that the pla fused with the textured PEI plate. i did what gpt recommended to do:
Stuck PLA Removal Checklist (Textured PEI)
Prep
- Power off or pause the printer.
- Let the plate cool completely before touching it.
Heat for Softening
- Preheat the bed to 70–80°C to soften PLA.
- Let it stabilize for a few minutes.
Acetone Treatment
- Dampen a paper towel or cloth with pure acetone.
- Place it over the stuck PLA area.
- Optionally cover with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation.
- Let sit for 30–60 seconds.
Scrape
- Use a plastic scraper (like your 3D printed one) to gently scrape the softened PLA.
- Repeat acetone + scrape if needed.
I went and bought acetone but then found out it wasn’t pure
according to GPT real textured PEI doesn’t get damaged from acetone
at first I used this nail remover I found. It turned out to be acetone free.
now the bed looks like this
Be very careful using acetone on your textured build plate. It will remove the painted markings also.
I had to reprint the marker on one of my build plates after using acetone that I thought was IPA.
Now I usually just toss the plate in the freezer then the plastic just flakes off easily.
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do you think that it is possible that the alcohol I tried caused the discoloration?
after I put on hand sanitizer there seemed to be discoloration on the build plate.
I managed to get the clicking sound to stop but once I tried to print a layer on it to make it easy to peel off the new layer had the same problem.
also I have a question, what is layer shifting?
That is an important achievement already. Clicking is usually the final answer to a clog or impeded flow. It happens when the extruder wants to push material through the nozzle but can’t.
So the root cause is still in effect. It is probably best to run through all of the recommended maintenance and add a bed tramming. I put the links to the wiki in my prior post Printer stops working but why? - #4 by EnoTheThracian
I do hope that this works but of course there could be more severe mechanical problems. So repeating the very initial assembly and set-up steps may be neccessary.
If this does not work, it may become neccessary to put in a ticket with Bambu. It is a slow process and can be rather frustrating, but so far, they have resolved the major issues I faced.
Layer shifting is almost impossible not to spot. The term is used when a print contains a marked shift in the XY plane. So, for example, below the layer shift it is perfectly centred and above the layer shift the print continues but with its centre shifted in the XY plane. It can occur for a variety of reasons. The belts may have slipped or a stepper motor error occured. Many times, the printers can nowadays detect such occurances and re-home in XY to compensate. But not always. Particularly bad reasons for layer shifting can occur when the edges of a print warp or curl upwards, the nozzle encounters blobs or speed bumps. At high speeds, the nozzle bumping into the warps/curls/blobs/bumps can cause the belts to slip or even lead to nozzle bending.
I am sending a technical ticket