Printing PP (polypropylene) with X1C

pp-brim-lift-crop

I’m trying to print a PP filament with the X1C. Adhesion is an issue, so i am using a dedicated PP-plate called p-surface taped to the cool plate. I use a raft but i still get this lift from the raft. Any way to prevent this? Here are my raft settings:

raft settings

Maybe this helps: PP on X1 Carbon - #4 by MotherOfInvention

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thanks. i actually saw your settings previous to trying PP on the X1C, and used most of them. brilliant. the print did turn out well in the end, but i can see future prints lifting from the raft.

is it the raft contact Z distance that needs to be lowered? i would also like the raft to be wider, as in how you can set the width of a brim, to ensure that even if lift occurs it won’t fall over.

I don’t use a raft when printing PP, only a brim for objects with a large footprint. I print on the engineering plate and use Magigoo PP as an adhesive. This works well for me. Without the Magigoo the PP does not stick to any buildplate i have, so that is an essential adhesive, in my case at least.
It also helps when i let the build chaimber temperature increase to about 40 degrees C before i start the print, by using the bed heating.

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yep, i have magigoo PP in the arsenal. basically all my prints are 100% perimeters/wall loops, small footprint but 10-22 cm high. brim hasn’t worked very well but might try again.

what’s your setting on the support threshold angle? have you used any support at all, and if so what support filament?

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Solid PP objects? Okay, then i understand the warping.
I tend not to use supports with PP or TPU prints as they are hard to remove. So i cannot give you advice on the support threshold angle for PP. Most of my PP prints i design myself and try to avoid having to use support.

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i’ve had a few successful prints with PP now but with this one i get a considerable lift-off. i am using a brim, brim-object gap is 0.

So I used your settings and everything is going well quality wise, but I keep getting failed prints because the filament keeps getting stuck in the extruder gears. when I do manage to get it out the filament is all chewed up, have you experienced this?

I don’t use the AMS when printing with PP, because then i sometimes also got jams in the extruder. Are you using the AMS? If so, try to print without it.
Another thing you might try is to experiment with retraction distance.

Ok I’m a complete newbie here, so let the hatred begin. This is only my 6th 3d print ever and I don’t even know what I don’t know. I used MotherOfInvention’s settings to print PP on external spool holder (not the ABS).


I wanted to use PP because I’m developing a prototype part that needs to be somewhat flexiable yet rugged. I knew going to it that it probably wasn’t going to work but I forged ahead in order to learn.

As you can see the results weren’t great and obviously I’m going to try again.

The issues: The setup is a bit confusing in that on Studio in that I setup the filament using MotherOfInventions suggestions and saved it as a new filament. However on the machine it wouldn’t recognize the filament because it wasn’t Bambu’s. So I had to use a filament from the drop down on the machine which I thought was somewhat close. I also had to unplug the ABS for it to recogize that I wanted to use the external spool. So the question becomes how do I know which set of settings it used? The one that I choose on the machine or the one I setup in Studio?

I did get some air pockets at the end. I did dry the spool ahead of time but where I live is very humid right now.

The support material was another obvious blunder in that I just took the defaults.

Anyway please send any thoughts and or suggestions.

@shaddahlgren As someone who has been printing for a long time, PP is a tough material so you started the game on ‘hardcore mode’ here.

If you need flexible-yet-rugged, PETG is a good starting point, and it’s way easier to print and has good z-layer adhesion.

You’re definitely going to need to tune the filament profile to not get the ribbing evident in your support structures, and definitely print slower.

I would second the recommendation on elevating the chamber temperature and reducing the amount of cooling from the fans (as MotherOfInvention mentioned back in March)

No ams ill continue to mess with the retraction setting honestly given up for a while I’ll try again today it just keeps getting stuck in the gears driving me crazy because I have to disassemble the extruder constantly and then push pla through to get the pieces out

I’ve had good success with PP and PP-CF using the engineering build plate and SmartMaterials SmartStick for Polypropylene. Ive also slowed down the print speed, turned on the cooling fans, and run temp towers to pick a better temp. Cant say its dialed in yet, but I don’t get adhesion issues.

BuildTak Bond for Polypropylene on a smooth bed with 80-100c on bed temp. works the best.