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This will help everyone to better understand your problem, and provide you with the best solution.
- Detailed description of the problem
- Printer model used
- Slicer settings used
- Type of filament used
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- .3mf file (if the file can be shared)
- Any potentially useful information that is related to the problem
I’m trying to print tall objects;
in Example I will attach the link of what im trying to print Paint / Resin Mixing Paddle - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
I’m attaching a photo of the result I got,
- I did a calibration before printing, no issues where found.
- the plate is washed really good.
- First layer was really stuck.
- The thick body\Paddle was good to.
- The room has 52% humidity (can’t reach lower)
- I have put a sponge like material under the A1 legs for better stabilizing it.
- the drawers and the shelf are screwed tight it doesn’t move or vibrate.
- Even without all of these the printer couldn’t print tall items (I’m thinking of lowering it and removing the drawers and the shelf, but again I put them to test if it was a problem of placing the printer).
What I have:
I have A1 Combo (Ams Lite), it is stationed in an Ender closure to keep moist and Airflow,
I have created my own cooling system so that the A1 won’t burn out, using CPU fans on the intake\Exhaust of the Motherboard and at the Exit of the Ender airflow Exit.
And I Weekly\monthly check and maintain my printer for adhesive and lubricant.
Help any one?
For a one-click try, set that print to run in “Silent” mode - it slows it down by approx 50%.
It should improve at least, and maybe get you through the whole print. Tall spindley bits want to waggle around when the Y axis moves the plate. You gotta make it do that less forcefully.
If the silent mode didnt get you to the finish line, in the slicer, take all your Acceleration and Speed values and drop them to 20-25%. If you’re using orca, also drop your Jerk.
1 Like
Just to save you some possible effort…this is a really poorly conceived print idea. A mixing paddle experiences major torsion at the shaft, you’re almost certainly going to shear it as soon as you put any amount of speed into it with a drill.
Find a design that can be stuck onto an existing shaft that won’t immediately break!
3 Likes
Try turning the model on its side so that the layers are perpendicular to the rotational axis.
1 Like
Yikes all around. Some functional designs just should not be printed. Paint mixer? Designed to froth paint, not mix. Paint requires a high sheer designed mixer with thin walls. Not something printable. This mixer has much surface area. A pain to clean & wastes liquid being mixed. A four flat paddle with larger holes in them would be better, especially without a printed shaft of the size to fit in any size drill chuck. Honestly, printing a flat paint stir and manually stir would be better. Put some shearing holes in it and print it flat. An improvement over a wooden paint stir.
but the base (mixing paddle) did get stuck to the plate, the problem was with the drill-bit that didn’t get completed due to tension/waggling/ and speed
I need this kind of mixer, for Jesmonite mixing, and it need such a paddle, that’s why I tried this model, the problem again with printing the drill shaft. and any tall object, I even tried printing a regular Cylinder tall bits for a project, it did not end well, and I had to print them laying on bed instead of base standing on bed (lost a lot of quantity for such print!)
I will try it and give you feedback, thank you
I think the feedback theyre trying to give you is that paint is thick and viscous, power drills are torquey and strong, and the plastic you’re printing, in the orientation of standing up, is going to want to do this (at approx the newtons shown, as well, lol - which is maybe 5% of what your drill is gonna put into it). The shaft is unsuitable when printed vertically, and maybe not even in horiz either. Make the head and glue it on a dowel or something, best of both worlds.
2 Likes
So, you’re dealing with 2 problems. Shearing of driveshaft & alignment of driveshaft. Replacing the printed shaft with a long bolt (threaded rod) could work with the alignment imperfect. Model the paddle with centered thru hole with counterbore of sufficient diameter to fit a socket to tighten a nut & washer while deep enough that the rod/nut sit inside. Suggest placing additional smaller thru holes around rod thru hole. These holes are for strength as solid tubes to prevent crushing the print when securing the rod. Print counterbore up. Assemble & mount in drill. Plenty of assumptions here, such as availabiljty of threaded rod with diameter to fit drill chuck and a tool to cut the rod. Modeling skills to replicate the mixer shape. Good luck.
