Heat resistance is the other thing where PPS wins. It was heat and chemical resistance that interested me. Everything has its purpose.
I wondered whether the Obxidian hotend ran any hotter (though I suspected it might because of thermal conductivity - hardened steel isn’t great in that respect). Effectively getting 5 degrees for free might be enough to improve PPS results.
I appreciate the info on Siraya - I wasn’t aware of them. New stuff to try! 
I mean, you are right PPS is higher for heat…but they are both VERY high. And PPS has more chemical resistance, but PPA has a awful lot as well
these are the comparative heat resistance numbers
Yep. It’s not night and day, but I have a couple of things I’m kicking around where every degree counts, just for peace of mind.
Honestly, it’s damn-near miraculous that we have materials like this available to a regular person printing in their spare bedroom!
Well, I had one print fail only 15% of the way in while I was gone and it decided to gather up under the sock and completely cover the nozzle. While I was working on cleaning it off with a pair of small wire cutters, it short the tip of the nozzle off with it. This has been fun. Cost me an 0.04, thermistor, and the ceramic heater. Could be worse.
The chart takes a minute to load depending on your speeds, even with 1gbps it took pretty long. Maybe due to the chart being loaded on a server in China. But it opens eventually.
How does the PPA hold up in wet conditions? More specifically, a part for a broken bike rack (auto rack) here in Oregon, where it rains a lot.
The impression I get is that moisture is less of an issue with PPA, especially if you anneal first.
It absorbs a lot less than the other nylons. My guess is it’d be ok, but I’d be curious to see someone do a test.
Hi did you have any updates to the resistor tuning ?
Howdy! Yes I was able to add about 32-33ohms to the thermistor, and it got hot enough to print a nice little benchy! When I tried to print my main project though the print broke off from the plate and continued the print which caused it to build up underneath the entire sock. The nozzle was completely encapsulated with PPS. I tried breaking it off but it broke the tip of the nozzle off. I have no idea why the print broke off the plate, but for me I don’t think it’s worth breaking nozzles to continue this for now at least. Hopefully I find another solution. Hoppe this helps you!
Thank you for the fast answer.
I try to print PPS-TF with my P1S and it doesnt Work.
Did you use a normal resistor oli read in Reddit that they ad a 3w resistor i order now some of them i only have the Standard resistors.
Thermistors pull minimal amperage. They’re just a fancy resistor that gets more resistant when it gets warmer. A fancy MCU reads the resistance levels to determine the temperature.
I don’t know what the wattage rating of my resistors are, but I’d be comfortable using 1/4W.
It isn’t dissipating any power, you can use 1/8w, 1/4w, or whatever you have at hand.
Thank you Guys then i will refund my order and use the 33 Ohm 1/4W resistor.
Did anybody have this in a Long Time use with resistor?
And is 300° in Slicer then in Real 320° ?
I do it and it works great.
Awesome! How’s it working? Any cool prints you can share?
I start Yesterday with a quick benchy today i will calibrate the Filament and Print anything big
I become a Error when i want to Upload a Picture
