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Hello everyone,
I am pretty new at 3D printing, I’ve had my printer for about 3 months now and never had any problem printing small to medium prints.
Yesterday I began to print a huge tiki, cut in 2 plates with connectors etc.
The first print lasted more than 24hrs, at the very end (only 35min left or so) I began to hear a scary sound, and when I checked, the nozzle was trying to print, it looked like it was dragging on the print, even lifting it from the bed, and going back to purge, and trying again etc. I stopped the print… And also noticed that on the pink part that it began at some point to be “offset” (pics 2 & 3).
I washed the bed plate, did the whole calibration thingy, and tried printing the second part of the totem. And… OMG disaster! (Pic 1) I have videos but idk yet if I can post videos…
I did a second attempt by slowing down a bit the first layer, and same result…
I need help 
what filament profile did you use
I can take screenshots if you tell me which parts are helpful
As for the filament type it is a PLA Basic BambuLab
just upload the project it’s faster
Welcome to 3D printing. Quick answer, enable supports & lessen wall thickness. Long answer. 1) Plastics shrink when cooled. 2) More the mass, the more strength within that shrinkage. 3) perfect layers or junk. That is, any error will increase in size as layers are added above. These new errors create new errors, principally because the error is out of place. This causes spagetti, that is, extruding over open air. If corners/edges rise due to shrinking, the extruder will likely hit the hardened lower layer, causing more lifting off the buildplate in a vicious cycle. Lots of spagetti in the infill, just shortened when crossing a good layer. These nozzle hits can cause layer shifts. I realize you want a strong print, but with the number of wall lines shown, shrinkage is going to be a problem. Consider the infill to be a strengthening support, eliminating the need for thick walls. The (strength) option within layer thickness defaults to @6 layers. Stick with that if the (standard) proved not strong enough. Enjoy !
Looking at top pic, I see tree support is on, but bed adhesion was a big problem. Looks like flow rate might be a problem, too. Since the A1 can check it’s flow calibration, filament feed may be a problem. Filament binding on the spool can occur. If it gets too bound, the printer will stop with an error. Can be a tough call whether to continue the print after fixing the problem. Many new problems may occur with tall prints which don’t occur with short prints. Often, the solution to tall prints is to slow down extruder and bed movements. Open frame bed slingers are prone to this. Core XY printers solve this by design. Learn by doing. Example would be printing a tall, thin wall. Say, 5mm x 150mm x 150mm. Obviously, printing this laying flat is ideal, but let’s consider printing it upright along an axis. If it’s aligned along the Y axis, lots of bed slinging will occur. The print will want to lift at the ends as the plastic shrinks as well as part momentum trying to peel off the bed. Aligned in the X axis, very little bed movement will occur while the part momentum is greatly reduced. Shrinkage issue remains unchanged. Adding a brim required in both alignments with a wider brim in the Y axis orientation. Enjoy.
