Greetings fellow printers.
I have issues with filament. I’ve tried to print an electrical connector to my summer cars brake master cylinder sensor. It has a flexible clip on the other end and that’s the trouble maker.
I have tried PLA, ABS-GF, PC FR and PET-CF. Four times a snapped clip.
Is PAHT-CF my solution, the real rainmaker?
Thanks!
Maybe you could post a photo? It’s hard to picture what you mean, even though I looked it up on Google. Do you mean this? The connector in the picture?
I don’t think it’s a good idea to tinker with the brake connections using a 3D Print just to save a few dollars at the expense of safety - and a connector like that really isn’t expensive. And it’s not just about your own safety - if you crash into another car because your 3D-printed part isn’t sturdy enough, you’ll end up crashing into someone else’s car.
The only right answer is:
Don’t do it - is your safety worth so little that you want to save a few dollars?
Got pics / screenshot of it sliced on the plate?
Orientation is maybe mroe important than material choice, if your part keeps snapping.
I just looked it up - it costs $18. Go ahead and buy one. Filament and 3D-printed parts aren’t suitable for safety-critical components in a car:
First of all, take a close look at the photo - the connections also have a rubber seal to make them watertight: “Durable weather-resistant construction prevents corrosion and electrical failure”
If you’re involved in an accident and the insurance company finds out, they won’t pay you a single cent and you’ll have to cover 100% of the other person’s damages.
That connection is for a sensor to determine when the brake fluid is low. But I agree, just buy the correct replacement part if possible.
Haha! I guess this got me called a “besserwisser”. 
You too, Sharky - you “besserwisser”, you!
Here’s the troublemaker. OEM connector is at the top.
36 yrs old Nissan 300zx z32 and no connectors available. Only 2 wires, which indicate do you have enough brake fluid or not. I’ve tinkered this car last 22 years, so no hassle, we’re on the safe side in this 
Why are you holding yourself to this specific connector at all? You can buy a male/female pair of weatherpak connectors for a couple bucks and change both the harness and the pigtail over.
Or even solder and use double wall (glue type) heat shrink. How often are you planning on changing this out in the future?
There’s no rubber, just a dummy plastic piece with two elec connectors. No worries.
In that case if they are just like regular terminal connectors like spade or pin, and no seal is involved, and with no spares apparently available, the 3d printed should be ok if you can get a plastic that takes engine compartment heat.
This is a hobby. Anyways, under the tank is male, connector is female. What filament is flexible enough to take a minor bend? And please, besserwisser and haters, no more offtopic of safety or insurances. Just the filament, flexible enough? PAHT-CF?
PAHT-CF takes quite a lot of heat, does any of you have experience of it? Thanks!
That still doesn’t make sense, though - you’d just have to replace both sides of the connector, right? or as CarbonForge said:
Chill out a bit - no one’s spreading hate here, so there’s no reason to get all worked up. Don’t be ungrateful when people want to help you.
If you’d like to emulate original, I’d suggest you try something like PVC filament. And it is somewhat flexible, probably moreso than what you’ve been trying to use.
Thanks! First reply to question.
It looks like all the prints are snapping on the layer lines, so I would change the print orientation to make the layers run along the length of the clip rather than the width. That might mean using supports, or a redesign to make the body fatter where you placed the labels.
PLA is not a good choice for under-hood use; it softens at relatively low temperatures. GF and CF filaments tend to be stiffer than their non-filled versions, so that may be part of the issue. From my own stock, I’d try PA, PC, or ASA.
That type of shell is often just a convenience to hold multiple spade connectors. I’ve been known to release the connectors from the shell and plug them together individually, with heat shrink for insulation.
RetroSharky, please stop. Please.
I have to try that, thanks!
I don’t mean any harm, but just be honest - especially since you’re new to the forum:
The connectors are still available as replacement parts. Depending on which option you need.
