I am trying to print the cover for my PCB Controller. When I printed it, only one side is aligned correctly and the holes go through in the correct position but on the other side it’s not. Also check the picture I uploaded with the green arrow, I believe it is shifting to the left side as you can tell by the PCB white line. Just so you know, the model is always on the build plate and never warps, it stays intact on the build plate while printing.
If you need other specific photos just let me know.
Yes I already used the vision encoder and also tried X-Y hole compensation set to 0.4, that increased the hole size but still same problem.
Funny thing is if I align it from the outside it’s correct but when I put it inside it’s not.
And if I increase the size of the model, I think the holes will be further apart on every side that way. Again, the problem I’m facing is only on one side (left side holes a perfectly aligned), but the right side holes are not.
I measured it with a digital caliper, they both read the same approx, 114.78mm for the left and 114.82mm for the right which is nothing out of the ordinary. My mind is about to explode trying to figure out whats wrong here. (measured from one hole to the other)
I even measured the same holes from the PCB and it’s the same as well.
Are you sure the holes in the PCB are in the correct location? How was the model designed compared the the PCB? Off measurements or product specs? Also PETG does shrink a little so that may be causing the issues you see.
This was screenshot from orcaslicer, but bambu studio definitely has it. Iconography might be different, mouseover all those tools in the top toolstrip.
Wow. 3mm difference between reality and slicer may as well be a mile. Measured from the same faces that you put the IRL calipers onto?
I would stop with this model for a moment, and go to a calibration model like the Califlower / any number of test cubes. If for nothing else, to prove that the printer’s motion system is doing exactly as it’s told and that you are fighting specifically contraction/shrink/a more nebulous foe.
An alternative would be to flip it upside down, so the part that we are interested in remaining very dimensionally accurate is welded to the plate and unable to move. Let the top of the box get all ■■■■ and maybe make slightly higher clearance on the ethernet/usb cutout to accomodate. Lots of support, etc.
If the holes are 3mm in diameter and the measurement in slicer is from the side of the holes rather than the center, the dimensions are correct. It’s easy to select part of the circonference than the whole circonference which will give measurements center to center, it happened to me more than once if you’re not careful
Yes there is a 3mm difference between slicer and printed model but the printed model reads approximately the same as the PCB distance which is what we want yes?
Shrinkage happened from 117.978mm to 114.39mm and the PCB is 114.95mm so shouldn’t it be correct? If I print it and get 117.978mm it will surely not fit don’t you think as it will be 3mm larger?
OK, so this is the same measurements, you’re comparing center to center in slicer to internal holes on the PCB so you should add 1.5mm each side which gives you the 3mm difference.
), do you have the vision encoder to calibrate?
