I am trying to print a disk that is 255mm diameter and 6mm thick. It also has some strengthening ribs on top, but doesn’t get as far as printing these. It needs to be strong, so I have 60% infill. I am using generic ASA.
The print looks fine until it gets to the top surface of the disk (one of the last layers of the top wall), where the print lifts off the bed in places and causes the print head to drag on the surface.
I have tried glue on the bed, but this makes no difference. I have tried increasing the bed temperature to 100 deg C.
I can’t use a brim as the print is to the edge of the bed.
I appreciate this isn’t a great deal to go on. The print is a replacement for a Certikin HD100 pool skimmer lid, which should give a better idea of the print I am trying.
Can anyone suggest some steps I can take with the print or the printer to avoid the lifting from the bed? Let me know if more info would help.
Are you heating the chamber? If not you might want to invest in a chamber heater or at a minimum pre-heat the bed for 40+ minutes in advance of printing ASA. You could also look at adding in insulation to keep that heat in as well as sealing up some of the gaps in the casing.
For reference, I have a couple Fusion3 EDGE machines. These are the only machines I have that do not have a chamber heater. These are high temperature designed, all metal, industrial machines. They can print metal etc.
The point is, if I’m doing ABS/ASA etc., with them, even if the filament calls for 90C.., my bed is going to be at 120C the entirety of the print on those. I don’t know what the max bed temp is of the P2S, but I’d if it can go to 120C, I’d start there. I’m also going to heat soak them for a good hour prior to starting. You are looking for a bare minimum of 50C in the chamber prior to printing.
Judging by what you are making, if you aready have cutouts for the bolts, rods / clamps or however the skimmer lid is attached, your strength will really be in the walls of those cutouts (or needs to be).
Something like that I’d be running 40% infill and 6 walls with adaptive cubic infil setting for strength. 60% might be highly overkill and adding to the warpage depending on infill type.
For a part like that you need and actively heated chamber heat. Also 60% infill is too much and will create too much internal stress. I would try and adhesive, more walls (like 5 or 6) and switch to a 10% gyroid infill. Also, I would try increasing the bed to 110.
You will have a hard time being successful with this on a P. It’d even be a little bit of a challenge on a H with active chamber heating. ASA, like ABS, shrinks significantly as it cools. The rate of cooling is higher the further from the build plate, so the upper regions of the print pull inward as they cool and that pries up the outer edge. It’s the change in temp of the plastic during the printing operation that’s the problem.
And you’re printing something that’s pretty much filling the build plate. You can’t do a brim to help hold things down and what’s worse, the build plate temperature regulation near the edges is poor - temps are cooler there and that exacerbates the issue.
Max out build plate temp, turn on the aux fan, wait for the plate to get good and hot, and the chamber to heat (max you’re likely to see is in the 45ºC range). Then run the print with the lowest extrusion temp possible.
Going slower might help, too. More cooling between layers means less stress being “printed in” to the model.
Combination of bed temp, chamber temp and gyroid infill are the biggest levers. Large prints on warp prone materials print better with more walls and thinner infill. As for infill I pretty much use gyroid for everything.
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