I’ve printed couple dozen jobs with pla, asa, tpu… no issues all acceptable prints.
I’ve been trying my first petg print.
Made 3 attempts all with same issue. First time I had only dried the nearly opened esun filament couple hours to 18%
I then dried it 8 more hours to 14%.
As the H2D has no setting for esun petg, I tried generic initially then the bambu petg basic.
.4 nozzle
Textured plate
The issue comes right off with the nozzle leaving little peaks. Some get knocked down by subsequent passes.
Have you tried to increase the z-offset? PETG doesn’t like to be squished and on your picture it looks like that. I printed a lot of PETG and PCTG over the last days on different plates and I needed to adjust the z-offset on all of them for PETG.
Edit: - offset means closer and without is away. You want the later.
You do that in Studio?
I’d have thought studio knowing it petg would make compensations.
Or the settings the author of the print saying it was optimized.
I print PETG(HF/Translucent)s a lot, but rarely with the textured plate (aesthetic reason). Smooth PEI plate needs glue, but it works.
PETG first layer can be finicky and you’d think the default should at least work… until it doesn’t. But once dialed in I’ve found PETG’s first layer to be very consistent. The trick that worked for me is always 265C/70Bed first layer with glue-free plates.
I’ve never had the need to adjust z-offset for PETGs 0.2/0.4/0.6 nozzles.
Yes, you can do this in Bambu Studio but if you have a smooth plate I would try it there first. Plates I can also recommend for PETG is the Frostbite and the Fysetc CryoNix. On the Frostbite I could print PETG Translucent at 40°C without a problem, I think you could even go lower.
Just PETG being comparatively more picky about different bed surface materials/finishes/melted temperatures to stick enough to it, or stick too much and became welded on to it. Bed Adhesion.
It also doesn’t solidify as fast, if you have complex geometry on 1st layer where extruded plastics partially overlap and adhesion was also poor, there can be problems.
Probably not a factor here but slicer defaults also tend to receive less attention like 230C on bambu A1 which won’t even stick on their own SuperTack lol.
No
I’m using esun
There is no esun petg when you set the filament on the printer. so I’ve tried the generic and the bambu basic
Also I’m not sure if it matters how it’s chosen but I don’t download 3mf file. I clicked open in bambu studio. No idea if that makes a difference
So after about a week of printing a mix of bambu PETG-HF and several other brands of both hispeed/hiflow, translucents, and regular petg, I have encountered the following issue.
While on single nozzle mode, the quality and whole print process is smooth.
When though, I print dual nozzle, theres big issue with oozing on the noozle, EVEN with the oozle blocker engaged.
Its so bad that the blocker gets stuck with petg and pulls it when changing nozzle, and makes something like cotton candy spagheties.
This is also evident on the prime tower which now looks like a christmass tree.
Moreover the oozle is so bad that it pushed the blocker and bent it downwards about 2MM which resulted in detaching the silicone nozzle wiper and flinged it across the chamber.
Ok
I figured out how to use the optimized settings. Though they were still very similar to the basic and generic.
I used Lilian recommendation of 165 on initial layer and it worked. It was the only thing I changed.
I haven’t had my H2D very long but I have printed over 100 hours with Inland PETG using generic PETG setting then manually calibrated them.
I have done a few two color prints too and if I didn’t know better it printed like PLA for me.
I really wanted to try printing things without changing much just to see how good it prints and I have gotten lots of great prints in PETG and PLA.
I am 2 hours into printing a cereal container base with excellent results in PETG…
I mean… poor quality wouldnt really explain why the filament oozes pushing the filament blocker away from nozzle, while that nozzle is “idle” , this seems like a retraction+temp issue, but I havent managed to pin it down. BTW forgot to mention, this doesnt only happen in petg, but I noticed the same exact thing with ABS. PLUS my purge lines now look charred, all bubbly and …burned . If anyone has tried to vapor smooth asa and left it too long in too high temp will know what kind of look im talking about.
And its only while purging line prints that this happens, models look normal, quality is good, but im more concerned about the uncontrollable ooze while dualprinting , as it already has kicked the nozzle wiper twice off.
More over on my last print, which was single color on right nozzle, I noticed that the left nozzle oozed again, despite never being activated intentionally (remember it was a single color on the other nozzle) .
I am lost here, but im pretty sure that this much ooze is not normal .
PS , filaments are perfectly tuned, and dry.
HF has been back in stock in Mainland China for about 2 weeks now. Clearly there’s still a bit of inadequate supply going on.
There were complaints about excessive stringing with the previous batch, but from what I heard from an acquaintance, when throughly dried the new/old batch had no observable differences.
That sounds a lot like it is not the same filament recipe then before.
And that is what we already encountered with the firmware version number here: BambuLab offeres different things under the same name.
That makes it very hard to trace issues back to their root cause here in the community, as we can not rely on ‘facts’ when people speak about “Bambu PETG-HF” or a specific firmware version.
Maybe we all should tell the date of purchase / download in addition…
How so? Not sure how a lack of observable differences would suggest a recipe change.
As far as I can tell, the only consistent user complaints have been moisture related symptoms, the rolls were not made in the intended dry environment etc. I’ll also say that, much like when someone wrote a help post with no mention of the filament kind, 99% chance it’s PLA, if they don’t mention drying at all, most likely they never dry it. This is not to deflect fault from Bambu OEMs, just an interpretation of online messages.
Personal anecdote, currently burning through rolls after rolls of that ‘very last batch’ (ordered right before they took it offline, ~14kg of the light grey ones.) and it seemed to be the same thing as always (viscosity, stringing tendency under different nozzles, corner roundness, thin/thick parts rigidness, layer bonding) With auto refill used back to back, the only abnormality I noticed was one roll that had a slightly darker pigment mix but otherwise seemed functionally identical. I manually dry everything.
It’s possible that there were real bad batches and I was simply lucky, but that would be a OEM quality control thing to hammer out, not caused by problems in the intended HF formula.
Firstly there are a few things to unpack from your question.
Yes you set the z offset in bamboo studio
Every brand of PETG is optimised slightly different and the generic settings in bamboo studio are a little on the safe side.
If you go to esun website Data Download | you can download the printing profiles “eSUN Filament Printing Parameters for Bambu Lab” for all of esuns current filaments.
The settings the author optimises generally are not for specific filament brands which sometimes can make a difference.
Lastly I operate multiple P1S, X1C and H2D and print almost exclusively PTEG and TPU. The only build plates we use are the bambu PEI textured, BQ PEI textured and the BQ cryogrip glacier. And besides having to wash them every now and again because people keep touching them they work fantastic with PETG.
Also I use a lot of Bambu, Overture and Polymaker PETG not so much esun.
I buy about 60kg every 10 weeks and can tell you with absolute certainty it was not a quality issue there has been zero difference in the filament we have been receiving from Bambu. Also they apparently will be back in stock early August in Australia.
I also have an acquaintance who flies to China to purchase filament for a wholesale in Australia and he has also been having supply issues with several other brands of specifically PETG.
General question about materials that require/recommend drying. After drying and printing a design, is there a manner to store so drying isn’t needed? How long without drying again?
If it’s left in the ams-hf closed and not opened does this make any differences?
Would really suck to have to go through an 8 hour dry every time you want to print something.
How long does a drying “last”?
