Hi, yesterday arrived the new engineering plate for my H2C (the one that came out during BF sale). Today i finally had some time and wanted to try to print some PA-CF and PAHT-CF parts. Since Bambu states that Engineering plate should handle it, i placed it on the bed, put on some Bambu liquid glue and smashed the start print button.
When the print was nearing end i noticed some warping on the edges. It warped quite a lot. I said okay, cleaned the plate with water and dish soap, put on some glue stick this time and started new print. For a good measure I increased the brim width from 10 to 15 mm, increased the bed temp to 110°C and the chamber temp to 65°C. But, again, corners of the part warped again. I tried for the last time with some liquid glue from Magigoo made specificcaly for PA, but to no awail. First two tests were with PAHT-CF, the last one with normal PA-CF.
So, my question is what am I doing wrong? Or is the New Engineering Plate just so bad at getting PA to stick? What baffles me even more is that I was able to print those parts completely fine on my P1S with same Magigoo PA - without the heated chamber and with lower bed temp (tho I used a Bambu Textured plate there).
Just to get an idea, parts are 100x50x5 mm rectangles with few holes in them. Print settings were 0.2 layer, 20% gyroid infill, 3 perimeters, 10 mm brim on first print then 15 mm. Printed with 0.4 nozzle.
Same issue here! Trying to print threaded lids in PA for stainless steel shot blasting protection.
Smaller models up to around Ø100mm works almost without warping but the biggest one I tried at Ø180mm warps too much and the extruder gets overloaded and the printer stops. That is when using PVA glue stick.
Today I have made two attempts with that bigger model using Magigoo PA on the Engineering plate and the result is worse than with the glue stick. Maybe the Magigoo PA glue is not compatible with the engineering plate.
Will do a test with the Magigoo PA on the textured PEI and see how it goes!
I am glad I am not the only one here. How did it go? When I tried that, I got even worse result - the part straight up detached.
In the meantime i bought a garolite plate from IDE3D and my problems with PA adhesion are gone. I heard about good results with garolite from Darkmoon, but since I am based in Europe, those German guys were a bit better choice shipping-wise.
The Magigoo PA do not work for me on either the Engineering or Textured PEI plates! I just tried it on a flat glass plate in our Creality CR-3040-Pro which maybe worked slightly better than it did with the PVA stick but it still detached and warped a bit!
I will most certainly look into getting a garolite plate from IDE3D since I am also in Europe so thank you for the tip!
The main reason that we upgraded to an H2C was to get better prints in PA with the help of a heated chamber. I also have it in a environment with controlled mostiure level due to LPBF printing in metal powder so the regular AMS 2 Pro seems to be enough to protect the filament.
I use material presets for smooth plate with the garolite one and everything works just fine.
One small issue with the garolite one, the adhesion with PA can be sometimes quite strong. Haven’t had an issue with that, just requires some patience while removing the part. Also, keep in mind that IDE3D ships the garolite plate attached on a metal plate, which is great for temperature distribution, but makes the plate not flexible.
I want to test using the magigoo on this one as a separation layer, i’ll let you know how it went when I get a reason to print something from PA again.