I’m having bed adhesion problems and have tried numerous previously provided solutions all over the forums. I have noticed though, that my purge line and initial layer are always around 0.3mm thick. Is this normal? If not, how do I get more smoosh to reduce this?
Using generic PLA with a hardened steel .4mm nozzle
Thanks folks
What bed plate are you using and how are you cleaning it?
Hi,
just two very basic things at first:
If this not help, maybe adjust Offset in start gcode in slicer.
Using all standard settings and also using the Textured PEI plate
I had so many fails yesterday I installed a new nozzle with the same results. I have cleaned with IPA and then with soap and water and also used the 0000 wire wool trick, still seem to be having issues. I took off the first layer and purge line, measure with a vernier caliper at ~.3mm on both. Initial layer is set to .2mm
Perhaps check to see if the right nozzle is selected in the machine menu?
@JonRaymond yes it is. All settings seem to be fine. This just started out of the blue yesterday.
Try a couple cold pulls? There might be a partial clog? Ideally if try a different nozzle.
The only time I’ve had issues was a dirty plate or wrong plate selected.
Redo the machine calibration if you haven’t. If using a P1S make sure that it’s not selecting P1P and vice versa. I know here are some differences in how the two are sliced. I admit though I don’t know for sure. Wet filament will also give adhesion issues.
Think I fixed my issues. I just went back to the previous firmware and things seem to be back to where they were. Don’t ask why, I have no idea, but I’m not complaining as it seems to be good.
Also having this problem, is the firmware process easy to reverse? Or, was there a helpful guide you followed?
You can revert to a previous firmware by using the Handy app.
When is the last time you ran a bed level routine before the print?
And do you swap out bed plates often? If so, you need to run the bed level often as each bed will have a different height. The stickers and textured PEI sheets will be significantly different in height and likely flatness.
I frequently switch between Cool(stickered)/Engineering, Smooth PEI (stickered)/Engineering, and dual sided textured PEI plates. Bed leveling has been disabled for several months without causing a problem.
YRMV
Yeah, if I don’t run it after swapping out my PEI and engineering plate I get a loose purge line. It will still print OK, but I don’t think the bed map is ideal between the two.
So you are correct, it isn’t mandatory, but it will introduce potential problems.
Does this differ from the calibration process that takes like 20 minutes? Also, doesn’t the bed test the leveling before each print anyway? Sorry if these are dumb questions. New to the hobby
No, its not that intense. Some of us uncheck the check box right before you print (which skips the pre-print bed level), and just use the last bed mesh that’s in memory. This works very well if we don’t change anything. Because ideally, there shouldn’t be a big difference. But if you change the bed or even flip the bed to the second side, its possible that its off by a .1 or .2, and depending on where that deviation is, it can have an effect on the first layer.
So my suggestion to people, run the pre-print bed level if you are changing the bed or flipping it over. Do you have to… no, like Ikarus said works fine most times.