Oozing can still happen. I print out of a filament dryer.
You can’t be so definitive. There are too many variables that can account for different outcomes.
People online often talk too confidently when they don’t have all the necessary information.
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I second this idea! I actually have a post on makerworld for addressing this issue → G-code to clean nozzle after print ends (X1/P1) by Kehali Woldemichael - MakerWorld.
Essentially, I modified the machine end gcode to have the printer pause while over poop chute to allow leftover filament to ooze. Then wipe. Lower temp to 140 and wipe again.
There is another post here that talks about something similar → How to add extra nozzle wipe after finishing printing with PETG - #11 by yehor.
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I don’t deny that there are variables that have an effect. But if the filament is really dried, it’s not going to ooze much if at all.
My success with PTEG is consistent. The only times I have problems are when I don’t take the time to dry.
This is what my nozzle looked like after cooling off after the PETG I printed last week. If there’s a millimeter there I’d be surprised.
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Notice the filament all over the nozzle, that’s PETG’s strength, sticking to metal and more PETG. Once you raise Z enough, the nozzle will stop gathering wisps. This will lead to failures with super large prints. Took me months of searching about 10 years ago, found a single random comment from someone, it’s absolutely the best advise I’ve ever seen for continual PETG success.
Idk why Bambu doesn’t compensate for PETG needing extra Z.
You’re looking at the outcome of an 8 hour print. It was at 0.2mm, though. Most of the stuff I print is functional, not decorative, so I usually don’t go to lower layer heights.
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