Hi, Do you think the quality of the wall is okay? H2D Bambu PLA Basic.
looks a bit messy, as to why?
Dry filament
Slow down outer wall print speed, (I don’t have to do this for bambu filament, but worth a shot)
increase wall loops from 2 → 3
might be able to get away with just trying to increase wall loops
I’m doing this on a current project because of a ghosting effect after a hole. Once I increased the wall loops, the ghosting is almost gone, much better.
I used 3 walls, slowed down to 100mm/s for the outer wall. The filament is dry. Any ideas?
Check the hotends if they are wobbling or not
I have already checked the extruder and both nozzles, the screws behind them
Any way to check the sliced print against another printer?
Make sure the H2D is on a fairly stable table or bench. The H2D shakes quite a bit, some shake is okay, at some point, it becomes too much shake which could affect print quality.
Tomorrow I will make the same print
Change the print order to do outside walls first, then inside. That’s dramatically increased the print quality for me.
Printing outer walls first can sometimes add a bit of strength (inner paths press against an already-set contour), but it usually hurts aesthetics and dimensional accuracy—think ripples, blobs, and softer edges. That said, if this workflow gives you better results in your setup, stick with it—there’s rarely a 100% truth in 3D printing. 
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This has happened to me can’t find fix nothing works.
I don’t know what you expected but this is exactly what should be expected for round holes and large bridges.
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If that’s the case maybe the print is as expected? Doesn’t look great…
Yes, it’s sort of expected. If it was me, I would pay a lot of extra care when I’m slicing the model because it has too many tricky features that would be very hard to print.
I don’t agree; the H2D is much better at that, especially with walls.
All printers have more or less problems with overhangs, etc., but smooth surfaces are no longer a problem.
If I remember, I’ll post a photo of a part I printed yesterday (Bambu PLA with Bambu profile).
I noticed with my H2D that calibrating it with a vision encoder significantly improved the quality – it’s hard to understand why Bambu doesn’t include the plate with the printer as standard.
For a friend of mine, however, it didn’t help at all.
It won’t help print quality. It’s not meant for that.
His issue still comes from the model and slicing. Unfortunately Bambu Slicer is pretty naive when dealing with overhangs. Though, it’s not too far behind Orca Slicer, which is not much better…
This looks like ■■■■. Its not normal. If you cant find a fix, open a ticket. All the possible fixes have been posted alot, because alot of people have this issue. Some find fixes, some dont. If all your other prints look great, its slicer settings or filament. If all your prints look like this, its mechanical. You should be able to run with a preset profile and not have to change anything besides PA and flow rate.
When I get home from work, I’ll print the same model on two different printers, fine-tune the profile, and let you know. I’ve used Vision encoder before.
That seems to resemble extrusion velocity in my opinion. Some indications are the recessed outer wall areas are before/after empty sections of the model and holes.
I’d calibrate flow rate and also check the layer time, flow and speed areas within the preview tab. Check what the model you printed looks like prior so you’ll be able to compare.
If you looked closely at the photo, it shows a really awful print where the layer misalignment is clearly visible — even on smooth walls, not just around the holes. It’s fine to try to downplay it, but let’s not go overboard — it’s obvious there’s a problem here. My H2D doesn’t print like that at all, or I’d have already thrown it out the window.
I agree, my H2D prints better than that as well, something off with the OP’s