I don’t recall the nozzle or layer height, but probably .4mm nozzle with .20 layer height. Used generic ABS settings right off the bat just to see how they turned out.
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I also have a very poor layer adhesion with ASA from Extrudr. If I set the ventilation to maximum 20% it has a tiny bit of hold. But with a little pressure I still get the cabin of a Benchys smoothly broken off.
At 20%, the snout of the Benchys also no longer looks so good.
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Those are all kinds of awesome.
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For me Eng Plate 250 degree tip and 105 plate did the trick with the Bambu lab glue stick!
Bed adhesion is not the problem, it is layer to layer adhesion which is weak.
Coex 3D is trialing an ASA material and I’ve printed it on the X1C and it turned out great. Printed at the Generic ABS setting and had no problems with intralayer adhesion or anything. I tried printing this on an unenclosed printer and the layers split apart horribly but the X1C handled it great.
I have also noticed very poor layer adhesion while printing ASA on the X1C with the generic ABS settings
I have used a lot of ASA on other printers. It is great but does suffer from shrinkage. If black is not a problem, why not just print in PETG-CF that is fully dialled in for the printer?
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I suspect it is because ASA suffers shrinkage issues?
Asa can be real tricky. It needs to be dried extremely thorough or it will have very poor layer adhesion. If you can preheat the chamber to 40c using a little heater like they use on resin printers
Then you can get better layer adhesion. Make sure the cooling fan is off as well.
On a sidenote 3dxtech makes a carbonfiber asa which should be a bit stronger than regular asa. 3dxtech makes excellent filament
ASA has become my favorite filament for nearly everything! I originally just got one spool for some parts I made for my canoe but it prints so perfect on the X1C I use it for mostly everything now. There are lots of caveats to get it to work correctly though. I’ve gone through 8kg of Polylite ASA in Orange, Grey, Yellow and Pop Blue and all perform about the same. I haven’t tried anything else as the Polylite prints great for me.
Some tips I’ve learned:
- My X1C settings: 265C nozzle, 100C bed. I’ve used both PEI smooth and textured plates from Bambu and generic without adhesion issues with no glue. I tune the PA in Orca slicer and it is different for each color but the Flow ratio is 0.955 for all colors I’ve tried. I’ve given up on the Bambu Lidar calibration as it just does not work consistently for me regardless of filament type or bed.
- On large prints preheat the chamber by turning on the bed to ~110°C and get the chamber above ~30C. This should be a setting in the slicer/X1 but it’s not, you have to manually monitor it and then start the print.
- Layer adhesion is indeed kind of crappy but “with the grain” is very strong. You need to make sure you are printing your parts in the correct orientation for the strength you need.
- I dry every filament spool before use. I’ve had some spools show at 60% humidity initially in the dryer right out of the sealed bag and slowly drop to 20% after drying for 10hrs.
- I use Shrinkage = 99.5% in the filament settings and parts come out dimensionally perfect. For large dense parts let the chamber cool slowly with the door closed to avoid uneven shrinkage.
- Cooling is key! My general fan settings are below. If you have overhangs greater than ~50° or large bridges then perhaps ASA is not the correct filament. You can get better overhang results by jacking up the cooling but layer adhesion suffers. I’ve found that using a 0.6mm (or larger?) nozzle really helps with overhangs. In general, keep cooling as low as possible for better layer adhesion.
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Thanks for the info, but what do you mean by “with the grain” as far as 3D printing goes? Horizontal or Vertical?
“With the grain” meaning horizontal or parallel with the build plate.