I just use Good old isopropyl alcohol…
I’ve always used denatured alcohol to clean my build plates before prints.
Ok first thing is you can’t treat the bambu like an Ender in regards to temps. 200c extruder is wayyyyy to low to pla. The filament is moving much faster and therefore has less time to heat up and melt. I have found the best all around temp is 225c for pla on standard speed. Each time you jump up in speed, jump up in temp by 5-10c.
Next take the scraper blade that came with the printer, print the handle for it and scrap the cool plate. Get all the old glue off. Then take a microfiber towel poor 99 percent isopropyl alcohol on it, and wipe down the cool plate. There will be some glue left over that will get super sticky. That’s OK just scrape it with the scraper. Once all the glue is off, then take the glue stick and cover the entire plate in glue hold it up to the light so you can see if you’ve missed any spots. Do not touch the build plate again after this with your fingerprints. Then load up whatever you want to print. Keep the build plate at 35C make sure you have bed leveling and flow calibration enabled. And then print it I have yet to have a print come unstuck following this method.
Now I have had my printer for about a month and I just recently got the bambu high temp PEI smooth build plate. I cannot stress this enough get it. It is way better. No more messing with glue. Everything sticks perfectly. You just wait for the plate to cool down bend it and it pops right off. I absolutely love it and cannot recommend it enough. the only downside to it is PEI loves to suck up fingerprint oils, so do not touch it and clean it with isopropyl alcohol every few Prints.
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@harryson2101
Do you have tested the Bambu Lab Textured PEI Plate also?
And do you really need no glue with for example PLA on the Bambu Lab High Temperature PEI Plate?
Do you have the door open, the top or both?
Thanks for your answer 
Yes, I am using household Isopropyl Alcohol (70%). You can test your cleaner by checking for residues left on glass, should be clean/no residues.
So I do have the textured plate that I ordered with the smooth one but I have not tried it yet for two reasons, 1 the micro LiDAR can get a little wonky from what I have read due to the textured surface and 2 the smooth hi temp PEI has worked so perfectly I have not had the need to try the textured one.
So far I have printed PLA, PETG, and ABS on it and everything was perfect. On the plate it says glue stick can help but I have no used it and never will as PLA sticks crazy good to it. So good it won’t come unstuck until you let the plate cool down then it just pops right off with a slight bend of the plate.
At first I printed these little feet things that you put on the top glass the keeps it cracked open to let heat out but I have since taken them off as there is no need. I print with the top on and door closed and the inside temp never goes above 38C.
I can not stress this enough, get the smooth hi temp plate. Worth every cent.
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The PLA I am using, Hatchbox, performs better at lower temperatures and specifications recommend 180C-210C ext. temp. My thoughts is 210C for first layer for slightly better adhesion and 200C for the rest of the layers greatly reduced stringing after running stringing calibration prints.
I understand that underneath the cool plate sticker is just a regular engineering plate surface? If so, I never had luck with PLA sticking to the engineering surface ,but that is only my experience and happy to hear you have success with it.
I have considered the High Temp Plate and I only hesitate because I’ve had some bubbles appear underneath my cool plate sticker which I remedy by flipping upside down (facing heated bed) heat bed to 100C for 5 mins, and cooling down. Have you had many hours on the High Temp Plate and do you see any bubbling?
Great discussions on everyone’s build plate preparations.
That is very odd about the bubbles. I never had any bubble on mine and no bubbles on the pei hi temp plate. Maybe yours got messed up when it was installed at bambu. Maybe try removing it and putting the spare one on.
So on most filament it will say on there the recommended printing specs usually around 190c-215c and like 40mm a second- 60mm a second printing speed. That second part is the key, you’re not printing at 40mm a second, you’re printing around 250mm a second depending on the speed setting. So ignore the recommended temps on the filament. As we speak I am printing a wall holder for my filaments using polymaker pla pro and I am at 250mm a second speed and my temp is 232c. And it’s perfect.
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The bubbles (aprox. 10mm diameter x 1mm tall) are very discreet and low profile. I guess I have a little OCD and I notice them 
Thank you for your suggestions 
I’ve had the bubbles after washing my plate
Here’s how I get rid of them with no issues on my original decal still
First off I had printed off the applicator from the internal memory previously so that was a plus
Secondly I take the plate off and lay it on a flat table, then I use the applicator tool and try to push the bubbles out (sometimes it takes a couple of tries to find the correct direction to squeegee them out)
There has been a couple of times that the bubbles just did not want to push out, in that case I lifted the decal off the plate just past where the bubbles were then carefully placed the decal back down and used the applicator tool I printed to firmly secure it to the build plate
Surprisingly enough the glue is good enough that I’m still as I mentioned on the original decal
Where I found it was creating the air pockets was from me washing the plate with hot water and dish soap, no big deal though as it seems fine even after lifting the decal off the plate more thsn once (that’s some sticky glue)
When I ordered my spare parts I ordered a few of the decals plus I still have the 2 spares that came with my X1C so when the original does finally wear out I’ll just replace it but so far so good
I must admit that I’ve been using my textured plate a lot more recently though but when I want a smooth finish on the bottom my OG plate is ready to go
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What you can do as well is a) punch small holes into the bubbles, enabling the air to get out and b) put the plate onto the heat bed, with the “bubble side” downwards, towards the heatbed and let it stay at arnd 100 Degr C for 10 Mins or so. Or let it just sit on the magnetic sheet over night.
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The adhesive is probably degrading from the introduction of moisture and a rapid temperature change. The adhesive expands when it is warmed with hot water which probably allows some bits of moisture to get between the plate and the sticker, then it quickly cools in the ambient air and traps some of that moisture between the two.
Warming the bed and cleaning the sticker with 99% isopropyl alcohol might be better if the bubbles get annoying or get worse. The alcohol will evaporate almost immediately so it won’t add moisture and will also not leave any residue behind (assuming the alcohol is a high enough concentration).
I have the powder-coated PEI plate and love it. It’s all I used on my Prusa printers, no glue needed. For small footprint, you will need a brim, but most of what I print is larger and hasn’t had a problem yet. Bed and nozzle temps need to be higher to work better at speed. My cool/engineering plate sits to the side. Used it for the first few test prints but that was it.
The texture does negate some of the LIDAR testing, but when things stick so well, it’s not much of an issue. I still let it go through the test most of the time, and everything works great, as long as the temps are correct.
Received the Gizmo Dork PEI sheet and went for the thinner .55mm vs. the 1mm on my other printers. Hoping the thinner material will still keep its flexibility and extruder tip to still contact the nozzle cleaning area of the plate before bed leveling. Printing now and see how it does on the Bambu!
Still waiting on my bottle of Vision Miner adhesive and excited to give that a try as well.
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The Bambu detected abnormalities with the build plate and I didn’t know there was a little code on the cool plate that it scans. I just cut that small section off the cool plate and stuck it to the build sheet to trick the machine.
One of the small parts I would have adhesion issues with is the calibration cube. Red part(PLA) would lift off the plate (aux fan side) with the cool plate. Yellow part(PLA) on PEI is nice and flat and released really well when finished. I had concerns the Bambu wasn’t going to like this mod ,but I am very pleased it works with the Gizmo PEI sheet and I would highly recommend this upgrade. Only thing I will do different is scuff the glossy sheet with 800grit sand paper like I have with my other PEI build plates because I don’t like the glossy bottom layer.
Received the Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive and after testing for a week, I am very happy with the adhesion this product provides. Very pleased with the Bambu X1 ,but first layer adhesion has been a problem for me so I’ve been very pleased with the modded PEI sheet (Gizmo $17.95, Amazon) and the recommended to me Vision Miner adhesive. The PEI sheet performs well on its own ,but after testing with various size parts, I still find a little warping on corners with long skinny first layers and it is always on the aux fan side. The combination of the Gizmo and Vision miner results in zero warping or lift on any parts I have printed so far.
Just for fun, I wanted to try printing PLA on the engineering plate using the stock bed scraper file, 220C EXT./35C BED. The only success I have ever had on the engineering plate is PETG with bed temps of 90C+ so I am happy to report the PLA bed scraper printed perfectly with no warp or lift. This is just a quick test and results might be different with larger prints!
So if anyone is having trouble with part warp or lift, I would highly recommend trying the Vision Miner first before modding with the Gizmo PEI sheet and that is because the 3M adhesive on the Gizmo is very very strong, basically making it a permanent mod, and I’d probally buy another flexible build plate before trying to remove it to replace. Of course there is also the Bambu offerings and these are just options if you can’t seem to find anything to work.
Want to say thank you again for the people that recommended the Vision Miner Product!
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The first print I made was PLA on the cool plate. I didn’t use glue because I personally don’t want to deal with the extra hassle of cleaning so it was impossible to remove. Ever since then I’ve printed PLA on the engineering side with the bed at 55 (change in the filament settings). No glue, perfect adhesion, no warping, no curling, and the prints pop off when it cools without taking the plate out… Every. Single. Time. I clean with Isopropyl Alcohol after every print.
In fact, I bought the Textured PEI plate and the High-Temp Plate after the initial debacle with the cool plate. I tried the HT Plate once, but it seemed really susceptible to fingerprints/grease so I haven’t touched it since. Never ended up using the Textured PEI plate.
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That is so interesting why we both have different experiences with the engineering plate with PLA because mine was the exact opposite. The black scraper was PLA from overture ,but the Hatchbox PLA had similar results not sticking. Anyways happy to hear you have been having good luck with adhesion and thanks for sharing.
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Yeah, I see you tried that after I re-read your initial post. That is weird.
I have a P1P and these are my results-
It comes with the textured pei plate.- Works great with PLA (overture and Inland) as long as the print isn’t terribly long in time or size.
For longer/ thinner prints- A good washing with dish soap and hot water and also a light scrubbing with stainless steel scrubber. Then a light coating of hairspray across the whole sheet. Everything sticks no matter what after that as long as its not PETG. PETG was hit or miss no matter what I did.
Engineering Plate/High Temp Plate- once I ordered this and the Bambu Liguid Glue alllll my PETG problems went away. Same cleaning procedure minus the scrubbing. Dry with a dedicated microfiber clothe, NOT a towel or paper towel. Apply liquid glue as shown on the website and it sticks no matter how long the print is and comes up easier than the textured pei plate.
I have not tried PLA extensively on the engineering plate but it did work for the small stuff I tried. The same procedure worked for both sides of the EP/HTP. Also if you are continually using the same filament you don’t have to clean and reapply the glue until the 4th print.
End result- PLA- textured pei with hairspray PETG- engineering plate with BL liquid glue.
Edit- the liquid glue from BL requires no clean up afterwards really. IF there is some residue which happens on occasion just use a pure water baby wipe or likely something similar like water with a tad of lemon juice on a rag.I have lots of kids so the baby wipes were easy and handy.
Edit again- You paid $45 for that adhesive?! That’s insane for a glue. The BL is only $16 and works fantastic. I hear windex works well too so I will try that next (even cheaper and easier to get).