In their initial set of interviews they told influencers (Dr. Tao included when interviewed said these things) about future updates to support mixed nozzle size prints, and access to the tool-head camera. Plus some others. None of this has been released yet. No other optimizations or improvement either. Just a complete dead end wall. It’s like the sales were not good enough for the H2D and they decided to stop any investment in it. That tells me volumes about the future of Bambu Lab.
Would love to see some real world examples where nozzle change mid print hugely benefits someone. The only time I can see it being effective is on huge large bulky prints. I suspect nozzle changing time/purging negates time saving a fair bit.
Just because you don’t see the utility in something doesn’t mean its not useful to someone else. Why are you being so apologetic for Bambu Lab? Even if you don’t care about these promised updates, what about any at all? No improvements, no new features, not even a beta firmware announcing anything. Just complete radio silence.
I can’t say anything about the camera, and you may watch the video and tell me where he states that.
But Dr. Tao clearly said that dual nozzle printing was already on their wishlist since the founding of the company. He mentioned that they were working on it, but never promised that they would release it within a certain timeframe.
He also clearly mentioned that the printer has no physical limitations to print with different nozzle sizes. The slicer is the limiting factor. Have you already found a slicer that supports dual size nozzles?
Maybe you should watch the video again.
no no, I think you’re right. You’ve convinced me. Nothing more needs to be done.
I think you misunderstood my post, I was just trying to understand how/why it would benefit someone when swapping nozzles/purge times sounds like it might negate it.
And wondered if anyone could show me some data to show improvements of time/filament etc maybe from other manufacturers.
At the moment I couldn’t really care less whether they implement it or not, it makes absolutely no odds to my workflow but was purely intruiged.
yeah wouldn’t it be awesome if it was implemented so we could test it and share data?
I did not say that nothing needs to be done! That are your words.
However, repeatedly sharing messages that are not true, makes others think it is the truth.
There is already someone in the White House doing that on a daily basis.
And that is what I am trying prevent.
And let me tell you that I would like to see dual nozzle size support as much as anyone else, and I hope it will arrive someday soon. But some think it’s something easy to implement. And that is not the case.
And regarding access to the tool head camera. Can you give me any benefit to be able to have those images available?
It is offset from the nozzle, and when the printer moves, you can’t make any sense of what you are seeing.
The only interesting one might be the nozzle cam, so you could possibly check if material builds up on the tip.
Apart from the extremely cumbersum handling of filaments and custom filaments in the menus, and the way below expected quality of the PEI bed (vs my previous printers glass bed) I am very happy with my swap.
I have now got myself a Cryogrip Glacier bed that I am trying out. Seems to be a great update from the standard PEI bed. Not impressed by the original bed that simply didn’t work for me. Got a replacement from Bambu but more or less the same issues. PLA doesn’t stick every now and then.
I actually upgraded one H2D, and sold the other in order to buy a second H2C. I’m having much better luck(knock on wood) so far. I don’t use the left nozzle very much at all(just realized while writing this), as only have a single HT attached to each machine. From my short experiences so far, much, much better!
I’m also gravitating slowly back to polymaker filament. I’m conducting experiments with it at this point, with what I have left over, but(still ABS of course), but yesterday I printed 3 long projects and 2 short ones without any issue.. So I’ll see how that goes also..
But they’re too me at least, so far performing better. But time will tell..
When printing fine detail on the face layer, either bottom or top, or both, it would be great to use the .2 for the fine detail and the .4 or .6 for infill and outer layers that don’t require the finer detail. On an H2C there is only the initial purge time for loading the filament into the nozzle, after that its the normal prime. I make keychains and use the .2 for that, but after the first MM switching to the .6 to make the infill, then back to the .2 nozzles for the top detail would be perfect. It would shave hours off the print time.
Agreed on the standard bed. After a while they lose grip. Haven’t used one since I got the Glaciers, in fact before that I bought the smooth plates, using glue on them, never had an issue, well, except for the marks the previous prints make on the bottom since I tend to only glue it once then use it until it gets too thin, usually 10 prints or so, and wash and reglue. But now I don’t even use those unless I need an super smooth finish.
As far as H2D vs H2C, I just completed an upgrade on one of my H2D’s to a C. So far I like it, BUT, if I were to buy a third printer, I would get another D instead. The 20mm loss doesn’t seem like much, until you get a job that uses BOTH left and right sides. Majority I do now are just single color with supports, and an X2D would be great to have right now as I am doing smaller jobs with supports on the X1C. Running a translucent PETG Orange in the X1C with PLA supports, and seeing little blobs of black from the PLA in the orange, probably from ooze up the nozzle. Thats something I never get with the H2.
The H2D was my very first 3D printer, went into it knowing NOTHING! I liked it so much I bought a second one, and an X1C for smaller items, and rarely use the X1C, only when both the H2’s are busy and need other parts that will fit, like now. So I would not hesitate to buy an additional H2D, or two. One H2C works for me, but more than one H2D is Sweet!
If youre printing PLA you should get a Frostbite plate. I have a glacier plate also and use it for my high-temp printing, but for low temp my frostbite plate is fantastic.
Apart from waiting time for spare parts I love my H2D. It fills the exact need I have at the moment which I think is actually quite an advanced requirement - dual material prints with solid walls on the right nozzle and foaming infill on the left, which needs retraction to reduce overflow during position changes.
A multi nozzle like the H2C could also do this, but it would be more nozzles than I need. I would consider a H2C if (When 
) buying a 2nd printer just because I like gadgets, but it would be a tough sell, 80% chance Id go for another H2D if buying Bambu.
OR, find a used H2D for cheap and get the H2C upgrade kit. The upgrade is pretty easy and straight forward, and gives you many more options than the H2D. I now have one of each and they both have their own place in the shop. Got all three, an X1C included going full time now.
What needs improvement are the AMS2 Pro, have had all sorts of problems with one of them in feeding, motor overloading, etc.and it has the straightest path to the nozzle out of the three AMS hooked to the machine.
3A Molecular Sieve works even better
I did figure out the AMS issue, it was the 4N1 causing feed issues. Its the new style with the wipers inside. I swapped in the old style one and haven’t had issues since. I have also sold the X1C and replaced it with a second H2D so now have 3 H2 Series printers. These are some great machines once you understand them and get everything in sync.
I also discovered after doing some ABS jobs, the OEM textured plate works far better than the Glacier when it comes to ABS and PETG, but the Glacier blows the OEM away on PLA. I was about to throw the X1C against the wall as all my PETG projects were warping, switched back to the OEM plate and PETG stuck just fine. On the H2’s the corners would get a little lift on the Glacier but not on the OEM. I tried raising bed temps with little success too. I did find a nice Smooth plate for the H2C so I can now print keychains face down and get a nice flat smooth surface like I do on the D.
There’s a learning curve, but once figured out, these printers are amazing.